Can a bad MAF cause a misfire?
#31
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I like this theory as well. I just had my cat broken street driving 35k miles. The cat is fine functionally (the inserts look prestine and not melted) except the element inside has broken off fmo teh canister banging on the postcat sensor creating a horrible rattling noise. Just curious if your cat element failed the same way or physical it's fine just that it's not cleaning up the exhaust. Either case, one should be able to tell by comparing the postcat sensor readings of the two banks.
#32
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i ordered the durametric cable today 2nd day air that should help. Yes my cats are ratteling also at 33000 miles they have been like that for two seasons on the track. No cel but before the rattle i was using the gas from the track the high octane i always felt like the gas made the cats go bad do you think there is any truth to that.
If your cats ae rattling, it's very possible they've melted inside (by the high heat) and blocking the exhaust. Of cource that would create misfires at high rev. Once you take off the cats, you can take a peek inside from the header end and from the postcat O2 sensor hole to see HOW it fails inside.
#34
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think the stock cats are crap shots. Some last a long time, some not so much even for street usage. I'm pretty sure track driving is not helping with all the WOT fuel buring the cats.
If your cats ae rattling, it's very possible they've melted inside (by the high heat) and blocking the exhaust. Of cource that would create misfires at high rev. Once you take off the cats, you can take a peek inside from the header end and from the postcat O2 sensor hole to see HOW it fails inside.
If your cats ae rattling, it's very possible they've melted inside (by the high heat) and blocking the exhaust. Of cource that would create misfires at high rev. Once you take off the cats, you can take a peek inside from the header end and from the postcat O2 sensor hole to see HOW it fails inside.
#37
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After cutting them both open they were about the same but the one that was giving me a misfire was broke lose inside and ratteling i think the inside was moving so much that it was acting like a cork. The one with no codes was still in place and had to be broke out. So i welded them back together empty put them back on and the car is faster than ever. THANKS
#38
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After cutting them both open they were about the same but the one that was giving me a misfire was broke lose inside and ratteling i think the inside was moving so much that it was acting like a cork. The one with no codes was still in place and had to be broke out. So i welded them back together empty put them back on and the car is faster than ever. THANKS
#39
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good catch. A plugged converter is a rather rare problem. Takes some guts to cut one apart. I wonder why the #2 O2 sensor on that side was not giving a reading that would have flagged a problem with the converter?