2003 C4 starter cranking slow... @$!#! What to DO!?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
2003 C4 starter cranking slow... @$!#! What to DO!?
Starting this week, the cranking was getting slower and slower. Is it the battery? The starter? The alternator? An electrical gremlin?
Or was it that I was slammed this month, travelled the prior month, and my 911 was only getting out for 3 mile errands?
This morning, 80's and sunny, should I wash the car, or should I drive it? To heck with washing it, I drove it on empty roads North of Tucson, then drove it across town and had lunch at an outdoor setting, and voila, starter cranks up instantly!
A picture from two months ago, driving my convertible into the very empty roads of Northern Arizona on a busy Saturday afternoon!
So this post is not about detailing, how often to change the oil, IMS, or MAF failures, but just to get out, find an empty road, and drive!
John
Or was it that I was slammed this month, travelled the prior month, and my 911 was only getting out for 3 mile errands?
This morning, 80's and sunny, should I wash the car, or should I drive it? To heck with washing it, I drove it on empty roads North of Tucson, then drove it across town and had lunch at an outdoor setting, and voila, starter cranks up instantly!
A picture from two months ago, driving my convertible into the very empty roads of Northern Arizona on a busy Saturday afternoon!
So this post is not about detailing, how often to change the oil, IMS, or MAF failures, but just to get out, find an empty road, and drive!
John
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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My car had the exact same symptoms and it turned out to be the battery. Eventually it couldn’t hold a charge.
I wonder if it has something to do with the extreme heat we had at the end of this summer (i live in Phoenix) and the lack of driving regularly. Now that it’s getting nicer outside I'm driving more.
New battery really makes a difference in cranking! Got a Bosch rom Pep Boys, it’s a big battery and takes up the entire tray.
I wonder if it has something to do with the extreme heat we had at the end of this summer (i live in Phoenix) and the lack of driving regularly. Now that it’s getting nicer outside I'm driving more.
New battery really makes a difference in cranking! Got a Bosch rom Pep Boys, it’s a big battery and takes up the entire tray.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Good eye, it was taken heading North from Globe just south of Show Low so headed in that direction.
I am going to look into a new battery but for the moment, today's drive seems to have helped, on the last start, it cranked right up. Maybe it was simply attributed to not enough driving as well as intense summer heat. My post was mostly expressing enthusiasm for enjoying my car with the top down, which is that much more enjoyable in the 80's F then when its 100's F.
Finally the summer heat is letting up!
I am going to look into a new battery but for the moment, today's drive seems to have helped, on the last start, it cranked right up. Maybe it was simply attributed to not enough driving as well as intense summer heat. My post was mostly expressing enthusiasm for enjoying my car with the top down, which is that much more enjoyable in the 80's F then when its 100's F.
Finally the summer heat is letting up!
#7
WalMart (or Autozone/O'Reilly/Pep Boys) sell an integrated digital volt meter that plugs into the 12V accessory outlet for about $14. It should read ~13V with the engine and accessories off. When you engage the starter the voltage shouldn't drop by more than 1 or 2V. With the engine running and lots of accessories active the voltage should stay well above 12V. If not, suspect charging system.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
#9
Rennlist Member
Open circuit voltage is also affected by temperature, and the specific gravity of the electrolyte at full charge.
The following is common for a six-cell automotive lead-acid battery at room temperature:
Open-circuit voltage at full charge: 12.6 V
Fully discharged: 11.8 V
Charge with 13.2–14.4 V
Gassing voltage: 14.4 V
Continuous-preservation charge with max. 13.2 V (battery tenders)
After full charge the terminal voltage will drop quickly to 13.2 V and then slowly to 12.6 V
Open circuit voltage is measured 12 hours after charging to allow surface charge to dissipate and enable a more accurate reading.
All voltages are at 20 °C, and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes (negative temperature coefficient - lower voltage at higher temperature).
The following is common for a six-cell automotive lead-acid battery at room temperature:
Open-circuit voltage at full charge: 12.6 V
Fully discharged: 11.8 V
Charge with 13.2–14.4 V
Gassing voltage: 14.4 V
Continuous-preservation charge with max. 13.2 V (battery tenders)
After full charge the terminal voltage will drop quickly to 13.2 V and then slowly to 12.6 V
Open circuit voltage is measured 12 hours after charging to allow surface charge to dissipate and enable a more accurate reading.
All voltages are at 20 °C, and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes (negative temperature coefficient - lower voltage at higher temperature).