A month or so back my car developed a p1539 code. I've done a LITTLE research, but not too much. You can still feel the variocam mess and the cames adjust above 3000 rpm. Just taking a quick look all the wiring appears to be ok. I would imagine the actuator is ok if its still adjusting at 3k. Am I hopefully looking at just the cam position sensor or is that just wishful thinking?

 

If my info is correct the error arises from the fact there has been no triggering of the actuator yet it is active based on the camshaft position sensors.

The VarioCam actuator is a fancy hydraulic oil (engine oil BTW) valve controlled by the VarioCam solenoid.

There are tests that can be done -- I won't list them here as they are involved -- that can eliminate other possible sources of this error, like if a wire is shorted to ground, that the actuator has 12V battery power, and the wiring doesn't have any breaks.

Now the above doesn't read like an actuator per se but like the solenoid. There is no way to really know if the actuator is bad (assuming it is intact and the engine is not making horrible noises). All the tests can do is confirm the solenoid wiring is ok, and that when there is no activation signal the solenoid (and actuator) are not well active and when there is an activation signal the solenoid and actuator are active.

Now earlier this year my Boxster went through a solenoid/actuator problem and the solenoid was found to be bad but at the same time the actuator was bad too -- briefly the new solenoid was installed and after I got the car back the symptoms returned and the diagnosis was the actuator was bad too and it was replaced.

For my 02 Boxster and its 2.7l engine, the parts cost was roughly $800 for the solenoid and nearly $900 for the actuator.

The exhaust manifold on that side has to come off, the camshaft cover has to come off and the cams have to come out (and go back in too) and the solenoid/actuator both have to be removed/replaced, the camshaft cover bolts have to be replaced, the camshaft cover sealed properly and so on. All of this required about 9 hours of labor.

Roughly you're looking at $3K and change if this needs doing based on a labor rate of $150/hour.

You might be able to drive the car a while longer -- I managed to drive my car 30+ miles back home with no obvious problems though I was on pins/needles the whole time -- but the hardware can go on the blink at any time and things will not get better.

Also, while there may not be any obvious problems I note that while I was driving my car I was monitoring the fuel trims and noticed the bad bank's fuel trims were quite a bit richer than the other bank's. Even though there were no obvious symptoms because the actuator wasn't working properly and the valve timing was off the DME was attempting to compensate for the wrong readings from the O2 sensors by running the cylinders on that bad bank richer.

This ain't good. Over time this can cause extra wear of the cylinders/pistons/rings of that bank and then when you do get around to fixing the solenoid/actuator you have half a worn out engine.

So, my advice would be is you need to take the car somewhere, to a qualified professional and have a proper professional diagnosis made and the other less expensive possible causes eliminated.

Then have fixed what is wrong.

Sincerely,

Macster.