Job done - Bought Clutch and Flywheel - Should I get my IMS done too?
07-15-2011, 07:52 PM
#18
In Your Face, Ace
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I mean this in the nicest way possible. You'd be a fool not to do the IMS and RMS while doing your clutch flywheel. I'd also suggest the Air Oil Separator while you have the gearbox out.
07-15-2011, 07:56 PM
#19
In Your Face, Ace
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07-16-2011, 05:58 PM
#21
When I had the trans replaced, about 25k miles ago under CPO, the mechanic said I had slightly greater than 50% of clutch material left and advised to use it up instead of replace. I am not having any issues but I noticed the pedal travel to engage is noticeably higher and it doesn't "feel" like there is as much meat left in the transition from disengaged to engaged.
Car is an 04 C2 with 65k miles. Purchased as a CPO with 24k miles and dealer claimed that they replaced the clutch pack when they did the RMS as a part of qualifying the car for CPO. After reading on the board it seems like I might not be getting the mileage out of the clutch as I read of people with 130K on the original clutch? I am an old school manual guy so no, I don't ever slip the clutch nor do I bang shift like I am driving a 70's muscle car.
I just had the brake fluid flushed and blead while I had rear rotors and pads replaced. On the brake note, I was a little surprised that I needed to replace the parking brake shoes - one split when they pulled the rotor - dealer said that it is extremely rare for this to happen.
My dealer is really cooperative and allows me to provide my own parts and when I do they are O.E.M. My thought is to accumulate all of the parts, including the IMSR bearing, before I have the clutch replaced.
You sound really knowledgable and I would really appreciate any input or your comments.
Thanks in advance
07-16-2011, 06:13 PM
#22
Parts Specialist
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what is this now?
as I see it the flywheel surface is not the main reason these go bad, the dual mass units fail the return test due to being worn or internally broken...and who is re-surfacing dual mass flywheels? - and who would run LWFW on street car?
sorry maybe I missed something
+2000 and 500 more
07-16-2011, 08:18 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey John,
Bottom line you need to have a mechanic that you trust and hopefully a good one too. The clutch can wear to a point when the flywheel is affected too, hard to say but according to my mechanic better safe than sorry. If I don't need it, I will just sell it or return it. I have about 60K miles and the clutch is hard and higher than usual, I also notice lost in a little power on the higher gears.
You CANNONT resuface a daul mass flywheel, it will throw the balance of the flywheel...I was told.
The LWFW is a nice upgrade, but no for me as I dont track my car often.
Its also recommended to do the RMS and IMS while the tranny is being removed.
Will update when jobs done....hopefully soon.
Bottom line you need to have a mechanic that you trust and hopefully a good one too. The clutch can wear to a point when the flywheel is affected too, hard to say but according to my mechanic better safe than sorry. If I don't need it, I will just sell it or return it. I have about 60K miles and the clutch is hard and higher than usual, I also notice lost in a little power on the higher gears.
You CANNONT resuface a daul mass flywheel, it will throw the balance of the flywheel...I was told.
The LWFW is a nice upgrade, but no for me as I dont track my car often.
Its also recommended to do the RMS and IMS while the tranny is being removed.
Will update when jobs done....hopefully soon.
07-16-2011, 11:48 PM
#24
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Hi Jake...
Hey John,
Bottom line you need to have a mechanic that you trust and hopefully a good one too. The clutch can wear to a point when the flywheel is affected too, hard to say but according to my mechanic better safe than sorry. If I don't need it, I will just sell it or return it. I have about 60K miles and the clutch is hard and higher than usual, I also notice lost in a little power on the higher gears.
You CANNONT resuface a daul mass flywheel, it will throw the balance of the flywheel...I was told.
The LWFW is a nice upgrade, but no for me as I dont track my car often.
Its also recommended to do the RMS and IMS while the tranny is being removed.
Will update when jobs done....hopefully soon.
Bottom line you need to have a mechanic that you trust and hopefully a good one too. The clutch can wear to a point when the flywheel is affected too, hard to say but according to my mechanic better safe than sorry. If I don't need it, I will just sell it or return it. I have about 60K miles and the clutch is hard and higher than usual, I also notice lost in a little power on the higher gears.
You CANNONT resuface a daul mass flywheel, it will throw the balance of the flywheel...I was told.
The LWFW is a nice upgrade, but no for me as I dont track my car often.
Its also recommended to do the RMS and IMS while the tranny is being removed.
Will update when jobs done....hopefully soon.
Just dropped my car off today to get the clutch, IMSB, RMS done as well.
Who is doing the work for you? u in the GTA?
07-17-2011, 12:54 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
MVS Motors up in Markham and Steels. Not an endorsment but I have taken my car to a few popular spots used by many here on the forum and these guys I am very happy with.
07-17-2011, 02:23 AM
#26
Parts Specialist
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1. The clutch can wear to a point when the flywheel is affected too, hard to say but according to my mechanic better safe than sorry.
2. I also notice lost in a little power on the higher gears.
3. You CANNONT resuface a daul mass flywheel, it will throw the balance of the flywheel...I was told.
4. The LWFW is a nice upgrade, but no for me as I dont track my car often.
5.Its also recommended to do the RMS and IMS while the tranny is being removed.
.
2. I also notice lost in a little power on the higher gears.
3. You CANNONT resuface a daul mass flywheel, it will throw the balance of the flywheel...I was told.
4. The LWFW is a nice upgrade, but no for me as I dont track my car often.
5.Its also recommended to do the RMS and IMS while the tranny is being removed.
.
1. yes it can but that is not always what makes the flywheel bad, there is a test where you rotate the 2 parts and see how they return to the initial point..often times flywheels that "look good" are completely worthless and need replacing
2. Clutch action would have zero to do with this unless it was slipping...the clutch either works or slips it is not a power robbing part for your motor
3. you cannot resuface them because when you hold the back the front can move..its like trying to resurface a piece of jello...it wiggles - (indirectly that throws the balance off, but balance is not the concern, holding it is
4.LWFW = nice way to split your crank shaft into 2 pieces, do a search. street cars have had issues with this, its well regarded as pretty high probability on street...less so but still happens on track - there isnt enough gain to gamble that in my book unless you have a spare motor you are just dying to stick in.
5. good advice, dont forget the AOS, check the chain tensioners very closely for mushrooming that will cause them to stick
07-17-2011, 05:08 AM
#27
Nordschleife Master
LWFW benefits (other than lighter weight)???
07-17-2011, 11:10 AM
#28
In Your Face, Ace
Rennlist Member
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I am planning a clutch replacement and am interested in your knowledge of needing a flywheel. I will probably have it done at the 70k to 75k mile mark. What would the symptoms be of needing to replace the flywheel? Would a driver notice or is it something that a good mechanic would see?
When I had the trans replaced, about 25k miles ago under CPO, the mechanic said I had slightly greater than 50% of clutch material left and advised to use it up instead of replace. I am not having any issues but I noticed the pedal travel to engage is noticeably higher and it doesn't "feel" like there is as much meat left in the transition from disengaged to engaged.
Car is an 04 C2 with 65k miles. Purchased as a CPO with 24k miles and dealer claimed that they replaced the clutch pack when they did the RMS as a part of qualifying the car for CPO. After reading on the board it seems like I might not be getting the mileage out of the clutch as I read of people with 130K on the original clutch? I am an old school manual guy so no, I don't ever slip the clutch nor do I bang shift like I am driving a 70's muscle car.
I just had the brake fluid flushed and blead while I had rear rotors and pads replaced. On the brake note, I was a little surprised that I needed to replace the parking brake shoes - one split when they pulled the rotor - dealer said that it is extremely rare for this to happen.
My dealer is really cooperative and allows me to provide my own parts and when I do they are O.E.M. My thought is to accumulate all of the parts, including the IMSR bearing, before I have the clutch replaced.
You sound really knowledgable and I would really appreciate any input or your comments.
Thanks in advance
When I had the trans replaced, about 25k miles ago under CPO, the mechanic said I had slightly greater than 50% of clutch material left and advised to use it up instead of replace. I am not having any issues but I noticed the pedal travel to engage is noticeably higher and it doesn't "feel" like there is as much meat left in the transition from disengaged to engaged.
Car is an 04 C2 with 65k miles. Purchased as a CPO with 24k miles and dealer claimed that they replaced the clutch pack when they did the RMS as a part of qualifying the car for CPO. After reading on the board it seems like I might not be getting the mileage out of the clutch as I read of people with 130K on the original clutch? I am an old school manual guy so no, I don't ever slip the clutch nor do I bang shift like I am driving a 70's muscle car.
I just had the brake fluid flushed and blead while I had rear rotors and pads replaced. On the brake note, I was a little surprised that I needed to replace the parking brake shoes - one split when they pulled the rotor - dealer said that it is extremely rare for this to happen.
My dealer is really cooperative and allows me to provide my own parts and when I do they are O.E.M. My thought is to accumulate all of the parts, including the IMSR bearing, before I have the clutch replaced.
You sound really knowledgable and I would really appreciate any input or your comments.
Thanks in advance
The signs of a worn flywheel would be subtle to the driver. Especially with a clutch that is worn also. One the flywheel is out though, you can check for the amount of movement in the center section. There is supposed to be some movement however most FW I see are worn to the point they need replaced because the movement has more than doubled. Now I'm talking primarily cars with miles and are still on original clutch. It sounds like your car has been nicely maintained and perhaps the flywheel was spared due to an early clutch replacement.
Are you planning on keeping your car? If so, without question, I'd replace the FW if it were mine and had 75k on it. If you are thinking of selling the car in a year or so without many more miles, I'd put the old one back in ONLY if it were in excellent shape. Any sign of wear, replace it. Your shop can likely give you a good assessment.
For sure include the IMS and I would also change Air Oil Seperator.
Hope that helps!
07-17-2011, 11:11 AM
#29
In Your Face, Ace
Rennlist Member
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07-17-2011, 12:20 PM
#30
John,
The signs of a worn flywheel would be subtle to the driver. Especially with a clutch that is worn also. One the flywheel is out though, you can check for the amount of movement in the center section. There is supposed to be some movement however most FW I see are worn to the point they need replaced because the movement has more than doubled. Now I'm talking primarily cars with miles and are still on original clutch. It sounds like your car has been nicely maintained and perhaps the flywheel was spared due to an early clutch replacement.
Are you planning on keeping your car? If so, without question, I'd replace the FW if it were mine and had 75k on it. If you are thinking of selling the car in a year or so without many more miles, I'd put the old one back in ONLY if it were in excellent shape. Any sign of wear, replace it. Your shop can likely give you a good assessment.
For sure include the IMS and I would also change Air Oil Seperator.
Hope that helps!
The signs of a worn flywheel would be subtle to the driver. Especially with a clutch that is worn also. One the flywheel is out though, you can check for the amount of movement in the center section. There is supposed to be some movement however most FW I see are worn to the point they need replaced because the movement has more than doubled. Now I'm talking primarily cars with miles and are still on original clutch. It sounds like your car has been nicely maintained and perhaps the flywheel was spared due to an early clutch replacement.
Are you planning on keeping your car? If so, without question, I'd replace the FW if it were mine and had 75k on it. If you are thinking of selling the car in a year or so without many more miles, I'd put the old one back in ONLY if it were in excellent shape. Any sign of wear, replace it. Your shop can likely give you a good assessment.
For sure include the IMS and I would also change Air Oil Seperator.
Hope that helps!
When I purchased it in 2007 I thought I had a plan to trade up when the CPO expired in 2010 - but I really really like the car and life has thrown some serious crap my way, so now I am planning on enjoying it, hopefully beyond the 100k mile mark. I recently used the PCNA site to build and price a car as identical to this one as I could and the MSRP topped $101,000. My thinking quickly changed considering that mine is paid for and I am rationalizing that even in a worst case scenario the repairs will cost less than the purchase of another used and unknown car.
Another round of questions for you - I typically purchase true O.E.M. parts - in your experience should I stay that course or consider an alternate manufacturer for the clutch kit, fw, and AOS? And is the IMSR from LN the right choice? Any idea of the average service life of a clutch in a 996?
I get that this isn't go to be inexpensive and that is why I am trying to plan and build my parts inventory in advance.
Thanks again - I really appreciate your straight forward and sarcastic free answers.