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Old 07-11-2011, 06:38 PM
  #31  
chsu74
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Originally Posted by washington dc porsche
My car has been running just to the right of the zero lately as well. What are they charging these days for water pump installs, 3 labor hours?
I am in DC today and its in the 90s. Its normal for your pcar temp running with the needle just to the right of "0" without the fan mod.
Old 07-11-2011, 07:21 PM
  #32  
washington dc porsche
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Welcome to DC! I didn't see you..

I thought it was normal but with all the "hub bub" about temps it made me a bit paranoid.

Originally Posted by chsu74
I am in DC today and its in the 90s. Its normal for your pcar temp running with the needle just to the right of "0" without the fan mod.
Old 07-11-2011, 08:24 PM
  #33  
B r i a n
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Outside temp gauge was 100F on 295 in DC this afternoon - engine temp gauge needle didn't go to the right of "0" but then again RPMs were low in stop & go traffic. I am guessing it would have if I put he revs up. It was hot and humid!
Old 07-11-2011, 08:40 PM
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Interesting, I come that way to toward the beltway daily today but it didn't hit to the right until I came down the back roads. I added a bit of "Porsche liquid gold" in this morning so today the needle didn't go as far to the right. It mostly stayed on the right semi circle line of the 0. This weekend it actually passed the 0 a couple of times.

Originally Posted by B r i a n
Outside temp gauge was 100F on 295 in DC this afternoon - engine temp gauge needle didn't go to the right of "0" but then again RPMs were low in stop & go traffic. I am guessing it would have if I put he revs up. It was hot and humid!
Old 07-12-2011, 08:56 AM
  #35  
100plus
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I found out that my fans are not RUNNING unless the aircon is on ...

HELP!
Old 07-12-2011, 09:08 AM
  #36  
ivangene
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do they run on high? (the temp has to get WAY up there..)

I ran a jumper from the fuse panel so mine ran on high instead of low. The reason was a blown resistor, the fix was 2 minutes and $0.02 worth of wire... I will look for the thread

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nsfw-pics.html

OH man, this has been 99% sanitized...you newbies missed a great thread here....sadly it saw closed and shut down...I thought I had left a link to the radiator fuse box hack in there but didnt see it.
Old 07-12-2011, 09:21 AM
  #37  
ivangene
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found it
http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509504,1509504

you can try this "hack" and either keep it like me or if it works you know your resitor is blown...order the parts
Old 07-12-2011, 11:24 AM
  #38  
LongTail 996
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Thanks for the research Ivangene, anything ever come of the "new & Improved" resistor pack mentioned in the link?
Old 07-12-2011, 12:51 PM
  #39  
ivangene
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Yea sorry I don't do water anymore, I am on Brawndo, it's got electrolytes

Old 07-12-2011, 12:59 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ivangene
do they run on high? (the temp has to get WAY up there..)

I ran a jumper from the fuse panel so mine ran on high instead of low. The reason was a blown resistor, the fix was 2 minutes and $0.02 worth of wire... I will look for the thread

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nsfw-pics.html

OH man, this has been 99% sanitized...you newbies missed a great thread here....sadly it saw closed and shut down...I thought I had left a link to the radiator fuse box hack in there but didnt see it.
They only come on when my aircon is on. My workshop connected my car to a diagnostics computer and brought the car up to 100C but still no fan came on only after we turned the aircon on. Gonna let them check if the problems lies with the relay.

Just wondering where is the relay located?

Cheers
Old 07-12-2011, 01:57 PM
  #41  
LongTail 996
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[QUOTE=ivangene;8706135]Yea sorry I don't do water anymore, I am on Brawndo, it's got electrolytes

You know what W.C. Fields said about water...
Old 07-12-2011, 10:03 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by pat056
Gas guage reading will become issue before temp reading IMO.
I had to laugh a little bit at this. I was actually thinking the same thing and wondering about the fuel filter or pump.
Old 07-12-2011, 10:32 PM
  #43  
Pac996
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I don't think the temp you have is any real problem. Be it calibration or whatever it's around the 12 oclock so not bad. Going close to the red then you can get real concerned.

Here's another question and something to check. Figuring you aren't the original owner I have to ask if the cars computer has been flashed. Concern there is if the ignition has been advanced. If so you can throw parts and cooling tricks at it all day and the extra advanced ignition isn't going to give a darn and keep that heat pouring into the cooling system. Hence above average temps to look at all day every day.
Old 07-13-2011, 12:30 AM
  #44  
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I think we need a clarification here-

If there is a leak then lower pressure can make the water hotter. It's not that water leaks out but the lower pessure that causes trouble.

Lower pressure will not make the car hotter. The inablility of the cooling system to reject the heat that is generated in the engine makes the car hotter. A lower pressure from a leak or compromised water pump will bring down the boiling point of coolant. This will cause problems because the coolant is more likely to flash and not be as effective since the heat transfer rate of a gas is only a fraction of that of a liquid on the same surface area. The boiling point of pure water is 212 F at atmospheric pressure (most 50/50 mixes boil around 220 F at atmospheric pressure). You can also add about 3 degrees F for every psi. It is unlikely that flashing of coolant is causing reduced efficiency and elevating your temperatures unless you have blocked passages.
Old 07-13-2011, 01:27 AM
  #45  
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Ok I just came back from the workshop and they tested the radiator fans. Everything with that seems fine. I asked them to have a look at the waterpump as I have observed droplets of coolant on my garage floor. To my suspicion, the water pump is leaking.

I have Placed an order for a new water pump and a low temp thermostat. Hopefully paired with that a full coolant flush would solve my problem.

Cheers


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