dcdrechsel

Hopefully this is the last hurdle and the DME specialist has a quick turnaround .You are certainly due a break on this project !

rkellison

Well, I did buy a "project" car....

Pac996

Sounds good the having th DME and alarm module checked by experts. Your saying it's a project car got me to flash on wondering if the ECU and whatever other computer stuff is also made for tiptronic. I think there is one for manual and one for tip. I'd just think sensor reading from a tip transmission might dumbfound a manual transmission ECU.

Maybe this mod could work

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tOI5ZZEQfs

rkellison

Well, project in that the IMS bearing let go and I rebuilt the engine. We did some upgrades inside like red leather seat inserts and red accents like dash stripe and instrument trim rings. New speakers, brakes rotors, pads, tranny filter and seals, LED rear lights, and a host of other little things. We are going to buff out the Black Pearl paint and likely paint the mirrors and rims a color close to arms red. My son wants a Turbo rear bumper, GT2 Front and GT2 Rear wing. That last part might be out of the budget range.

logray

I freaking love the GT2 look. I hope the DME is the answer.

rkellison

UPDATE! UPDATE!

I got the DME back from ECUDoctors and they said that it is working great. Hosea said that I should get an Oscilioscope and check the signal from the crank sensor. It checked OK with a volt meter but he said that it may but if the signal is not clean it would not work. I got a scope and sure enough the sensor was sending out a real trashy signal. so.... I replaced the sensor, cleaned the ICV and replaced one of the O2 sensors. Now it runs as long as you do not go above 3000 RPM. If you do, it is like you hit a rev limiter and the "4" and "D" flash on the Tiptronic display. Has anyone seen a problem like this? Ideas? Suggestions?

Pac996

I'm not sure if the sign of the rev limiter is flashing the 4 and D. Once again it depends on the rpm that the failure occurs right? Around 3k the cam change but also your alternator is throwing out more power. Trouble shoot the alternator. With a digital multimeter watch the voltage reading either at the battery or by the engine if you can while the engine revs up. Specificly watch for the positive negative sign next to the voltage reading to change. If the diode stack in your alternator is failing it will allow the altenator that emits A/C then routes through the diode stack to only put out D/C. With the diode stack loosing it the car might charge at lower rpms but higher rpms it throws out trashy A/C along with D/C. The A/C could be fouling your sensors and readouts hence the stumbling of the engine.

Did you put the battery on a charger before starting the car since you have been cranking a lot? Could just be under load the diode stack fails extremely. A/C on the line could be why you get some errors in equipment when its just the power supplied to it thats flaking out.

Oh yah, if the positive and negative alternate any then thats a sign of A/C getting past the diode stack.

redridge

it may also be noise issues, has the main harness been exposed to water or damaged at some point? check all your grounds and connections....

dcdrechsel

If I remember correctly in your brief test ride before replacing the sensor it didn't do this it soiunds like something is amuck with the sensor and the flywheel /torque converter .Might be a good idea to pull sensor and see if it is rubbing.
Dave

rkellison

I inspected and rewrapped most of the main harness while I had it out. I did not see any problems with it and it was in very good shape. Dave, that is a good thought. If the sensor is very close to the flywheel, say a few thousandths, the centrifugal force of 3000 rpm might bring it into contact. That should be readily evident on inspection.

dcdrechsel

You might want to inspect the old sensor and see if it has any marks............

997_rich

does the cam position sensor look OK? I can see where the signals from the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor do not jibe at advance (higher rpm) and it trips things up.

rkellison

The old sensor did not have any visible marks on it. The problem it had was that the insulation near the sensor had crystalized and flaked off resulting in intermittent or dirty signal. On the CAM sensors, they all checked out OK on the rebuild and they are a PITA to get to now. Does anyone know what kind of degree advance reading I should see ont hem and the crank sensor at 2500 to 3500 RPM?

logray

Good call out!!!!

logray

The actual angle for camshafts should read about 24 degrees by about 2000 rpm.