Removing Hazard Surround
#1
Drifting
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According to the DIYs I have found, the hazard surround should just pop right out. However, mine appears to be stuck. I get the button out with no problem, but no joy on the surround. I have given it as much pressure as I dare so as not to break it, but it won't budge.
Is there a trick I am missing?
Is there a trick I am missing?
#2
RL Community Team
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If you have leather, they seem to really stick in there. I scratched my leather the first time I pulled it out. Be careful. I would put as much masking tape around it as you can in a couple of layers. Hope this helps. It doesn't help that the leather is really thin and soft.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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If it's a compression fitting like it is on the older 996 cars you wrap a clean rag around the tip of a wide flat screwdriver that can also help... and carefully work around the edges. If the dash is a little warm from sunlight that might help too?
#5
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Blow dryer and a spatula(secretly removed from drawer unless you want a unecesssary lecture)
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#8
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why are you removing the trim?
just got this, very handy to have.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product..._Code=996intup
![](http://www.suncoastparts.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/tooltrimkit.jpg)
just got this, very handy to have.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product..._Code=996intup
![](http://www.suncoastparts.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/tooltrimkit.jpg)
I painted the rear console and some of the dash pieces. My cabin was a bit too monochrome and I didn't want to spend the bucks on carbon fiber in a 7 year old car. It's all done except for the hazard surround. I'll attack it again this weekend using the hair dryer.
I also took the opportunity to install the 997 shift kit while I had the console out.
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No visible screws.
BTW... Here is the repaint on the Horseshoe, batwing, and rear console. I went with graphite to give a little contrast. It turned out good and the new paint is more scratch resistant than the factory paint job.
BTW... Here is the repaint on the Horseshoe, batwing, and rear console. I went with graphite to give a little contrast. It turned out good and the new paint is more scratch resistant than the factory paint job.
#11
Three Wheelin'
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Yes, what kind of paint AND prep did you do on that center console? I really need to do this and am a little intimidated by whatever is on there now. Seems soft and definitely not hard plastic. Did you strip it down to whatever is the "base" material, or do a light sand of what is on there and repaint?
BTW, looks nice. I have the same interior color. A subtle enhancement rather than going full contrast with black, etc. Appreciate post, have been looking for the right thing to do.
BTW, looks nice. I have the same interior color. A subtle enhancement rather than going full contrast with black, etc. Appreciate post, have been looking for the right thing to do.
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Thanks guys. The paint is SEM Color Coat in a spray can. I've used it before and it always gives a good result and wears well.
For the prep, you have to get all dirt and residue from any conditiners or detailing products off the plastic. I first washed the pieces using the same stuff I use to wash the car. Then I lightly scuffed the surfaces with some fine steel wool. I then used compressed air to removel all the steel wool shavings. Finally, I wiped everything down wth a solvent (be sure it's plastic safe) to remove any remaining residue.
For the painting, start with two coats of SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter (Just follow the directions). Then two or three coats of the color. It is almost idiot proof, but be sure to take your time and use even sweeping motions to apply the paint. Also, make sure you using it within the proper temp ranges. Too hot and it dries on contact giving you a rough surface, too cold and it won't cure properly.
Finally, it s dry to the touch very quickly (10 - 15 minutes depending on the temp). However, let it cure for at least 24 hours before reinstalling the pieces so you don't nick them up again. You still need to be carefull with the new paint. After about a week it will be very tough.
For the prep, you have to get all dirt and residue from any conditiners or detailing products off the plastic. I first washed the pieces using the same stuff I use to wash the car. Then I lightly scuffed the surfaces with some fine steel wool. I then used compressed air to removel all the steel wool shavings. Finally, I wiped everything down wth a solvent (be sure it's plastic safe) to remove any remaining residue.
For the painting, start with two coats of SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter (Just follow the directions). Then two or three coats of the color. It is almost idiot proof, but be sure to take your time and use even sweeping motions to apply the paint. Also, make sure you using it within the proper temp ranges. Too hot and it dries on contact giving you a rough surface, too cold and it won't cure properly.
Finally, it s dry to the touch very quickly (10 - 15 minutes depending on the temp). However, let it cure for at least 24 hours before reinstalling the pieces so you don't nick them up again. You still need to be carefull with the new paint. After about a week it will be very tough.