I'm on the blink...fast driver's side
05-06-2011, 01:31 PM
#16
05-06-2011, 04:02 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
They were fine as reconnecting with existing bulbs then during a drive it started fast blinking. No more than 3 minutes later it was normal. Strange that it's this intermittent.
What other part(s) could be faulty?
What other part(s) could be faulty?
05-06-2011, 04:59 PM
#18
Instructor
The bulbs are cheap, if you don't want the fancy grey ones, so now I have some extras.
05-08-2011, 04:03 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Right - I had a good hard look at this some months ago and fixed it good. Long story short, the setup is too clever for it's own good and the electrical conection is tenuous at best.
The socket twists out of the headlight housing. The bulb goes into the socket.
The socket has two thin blades sticking out of it perpendicular to the bulb, they only protrude about 1mm.
When the socket is twisted into the headlight housing, the blades make contact with two metal spring tabs in the headlight housing. These tabs carry the juice to and from the light bulb.
In my case, one of these thin metal blades was barely making contact with it's spring tab. Over the years the connection had arced badly and the blade had a pit burned in to it right down to the level of the socket.
I had to file away the plastic socket to expose more blade, then file the blade down level. Then I bent the tab in the headlight housing so that it made good contact with the blade. Problem solved.
$0 fix, maybe a half hour of labour.
Assuming this is your problem also, the dealer may just bend the tab and leave the burned socket, or they may replace the socket with a new one...I doubt they would "repair" the existing socket, but they might do if they didn't have a new socket in stock.
They should of course do both, bend the tab and replace the socket...and check the other side while they're at it.
Despite the warranty dude, I'd fix it myself.
I personally have no faith that people repairing my car either know what they are doing or will take the time to figure out the root cause of a problem.
Of course there are good technicians out there, it's just that you have no idea if one of them is working on your car or not.
The socket twists out of the headlight housing. The bulb goes into the socket.
The socket has two thin blades sticking out of it perpendicular to the bulb, they only protrude about 1mm.
When the socket is twisted into the headlight housing, the blades make contact with two metal spring tabs in the headlight housing. These tabs carry the juice to and from the light bulb.
In my case, one of these thin metal blades was barely making contact with it's spring tab. Over the years the connection had arced badly and the blade had a pit burned in to it right down to the level of the socket.
I had to file away the plastic socket to expose more blade, then file the blade down level. Then I bent the tab in the headlight housing so that it made good contact with the blade. Problem solved.
$0 fix, maybe a half hour of labour.
Assuming this is your problem also, the dealer may just bend the tab and leave the burned socket, or they may replace the socket with a new one...I doubt they would "repair" the existing socket, but they might do if they didn't have a new socket in stock.
They should of course do both, bend the tab and replace the socket...and check the other side while they're at it.
Despite the warranty dude, I'd fix it myself.
I personally have no faith that people repairing my car either know what they are doing or will take the time to figure out the root cause of a problem.
Of course there are good technicians out there, it's just that you have no idea if one of them is working on your car or not.
05-08-2011, 04:18 PM
#20
Drifting
Fast turn signal is also a symptom of a loose headlight assembly. Double-check to make sure it's aligned properly and in securely. Take it out and put it back in if you need to.
Last time I had these symptoms, I ignored it for a few days assuming I just needed a new bulb, but then stomped pretty on my brakes hard at one point and my car stopped... but the left headlight kept right on going! I'm told it's not an uncommon sight during GT3 racing.
Last time I had these symptoms, I ignored it for a few days assuming I just needed a new bulb, but then stomped pretty on my brakes hard at one point and my car stopped... but the left headlight kept right on going! I'm told it's not an uncommon sight during GT3 racing.
05-12-2011, 11:40 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Right - I had a good hard look at this some months ago and fixed it good. Long story short, the setup is too clever for it's own good and the electrical conection is tenuous at best.
The socket twists out of the headlight housing. The bulb goes into the socket.
The socket has two thin blades sticking out of it perpendicular to the bulb, they only protrude about 1mm.
When the socket is twisted into the headlight housing, the blades make contact with two metal spring tabs in the headlight housing. These tabs carry the juice to and from the light bulb.
In my case, one of these thin metal blades was barely making contact with it's spring tab. Over the years the connection had arced badly and the blade had a pit burned in to it right down to the level of the socket.
I had to file away the plastic socket to expose more blade, then file the blade down level. Then I bent the tab in the headlight housing so that it made good contact with the blade. Problem solved.
$0 fix, maybe a half hour of labour.
Assuming this is your problem also, the dealer may just bend the tab and leave the burned socket, or they may replace the socket with a new one...I doubt they would "repair" the existing socket, but they might do if they didn't have a new socket in stock.
They should of course do both, bend the tab and replace the socket...and check the other side while they're at it.
Despite the warranty dude, I'd fix it myself.
I personally have no faith that people repairing my car either know what they are doing or will take the time to figure out the root cause of a problem.
Of course there are good technicians out there, it's just that you have no idea if one of them is working on your car or not.
The socket twists out of the headlight housing. The bulb goes into the socket.
The socket has two thin blades sticking out of it perpendicular to the bulb, they only protrude about 1mm.
When the socket is twisted into the headlight housing, the blades make contact with two metal spring tabs in the headlight housing. These tabs carry the juice to and from the light bulb.
In my case, one of these thin metal blades was barely making contact with it's spring tab. Over the years the connection had arced badly and the blade had a pit burned in to it right down to the level of the socket.
I had to file away the plastic socket to expose more blade, then file the blade down level. Then I bent the tab in the headlight housing so that it made good contact with the blade. Problem solved.
$0 fix, maybe a half hour of labour.
Assuming this is your problem also, the dealer may just bend the tab and leave the burned socket, or they may replace the socket with a new one...I doubt they would "repair" the existing socket, but they might do if they didn't have a new socket in stock.
They should of course do both, bend the tab and replace the socket...and check the other side while they're at it.
Despite the warranty dude, I'd fix it myself.
I personally have no faith that people repairing my car either know what they are doing or will take the time to figure out the root cause of a problem.
Of course there are good technicians out there, it's just that you have no idea if one of them is working on your car or not.
