ciscovip

So all the bolt that were pulled to do the job was reused? did not need to replace them?

Slakker

Always good to replace bolts but it's not required for this job.

PelicanParts.com

Thank you for sharing this write up Philooo. If you or anyone has more DIY tech articles with this level of detail; check out the below link - we will review the submission and if published on our site, we will give you 10% off and a credit. Please let me know if you have any questions!

DIY PROJECT EXPERT SUBMISSIONS


-Dmitry

dan_189

Thanks for the write up, i'm going to be replacing my caster/control arms soon so I needed the torque specs as the manual isn't very clear on the values for each as its all text rather than images.

These are what i'm replacing: one in the front, one in the back (part is the same L+R/F+R)



Does anyone know the torque value of the bolt in red:



Hope Pelican Parts don't mind me using their image as its a good one!

I'm planning on replacing all the bolts too.

dan_189

Just to confirm, is this (roughly, sorry!) edited diagram correct?

dan_189

Anyone have any input on confirming the diagram above? Genuine replacement control/thrust arms arrived this week and would like to put them in this weekend

philooo

I have made this diagram myself and tracked the car a couple times after the change and up to these day everything is still tight, it's been a couple years now so I would say these value are correct

read my later post I think I added
"About the torque I decided to go with the following value (see first attachment for the number cross reference)

1 - 74 ft lb
2 - 118 ft lb
3 & 4 - 48 lb
5 - 74 ft lb

I added some thread locker (blue one) on all screws I removed as it seems there was some on there before. The only one I did not remove fully is the screw #2 so I could not put thread locker back on it.

and not on the first picture but the lug nuts that link the swaybar to the suspension link : 63ft lb"

It is a pretty easy and fun DIY, but I did not change the caster control arm.

If you do, keep in mind that the bushing in the main control arm, is known to weaken over time, so if you do the work, you may want to think about going the extra mile and replace that one. It is certainly a big pain to do but steering feedback would certainly be greatly improved. tough choice.

dan_189

Thanks for that! It is a tough choice but seeing that the caster arms are more straight forward I might stick to those for now. If it was the coffin arm then it would be an easier decision.

dan_189

Also considering some bilstein PSS10s at some point as well

gman3280

Great thread. Search is great! Just want to confirm this is applicable for both 987.1 and .2's. I have a .2 and it looks just a little different. It could be the angle of the picture. Thanks!