Loren

When you are bleeding the PSM circuit (using Durametric or a PST2) you open the right front valve to bleed PSM.

On non-PSM cars (ABS only) you open the right rear valve.

LVDell

So this would be irrelevant to those of use that just use a Motive Bleeder without a Durametric or PST2?

Loren

If you are not running the ABS/PSM pump using Durametric or a PST2 then - yes it is irrelevant.
If you have replaced ABS or PSM components or had a brake line open to air - then you do need to bleed the ABS/PSM. Otherwise - no.

LVDell

Brake line open to air synonymous with bleeding or from removing the hard line from the caliper?

Thanks Loren!

Loren

Removing the any hard line or replacing a hoses or lines.

LVDell

Perfect, thanks Loren

tshih

I just purchased the Durametric tool to bleed the brakes and ABS/PSM lines of a 2010 GT3. Would someone please point me to a detailed procedure for doing this? thanks in advance. I intend to hook up a Motive PB filled with Motul 600 fluid and then actuate each (ABS) circuit with the appropriate bleeder valves at the proper order of bleeding and collect as per procedure in this thread.

Jochy

Bringing this thread back to life almost exactly after a year ago..Great Question expect Great Answer

Viper6

What if you accidentally pulled in air from the master cylinder of a PSM/ABS 2004 C2 when your wife was overwatching the front of the master fluid resevoir and it was showing good fluid level, while you were cracking bleed nipples at the rear caliper, just as the back half of the resevoir drew down to air? Not that it happened to me...

Who the hell put a partition in the fluid resevoir that would allow this facade and dupe an unsuspecting shade tree meachanic (OK, magazine reading significant other)? Damn Porsche has to be different even in their fluid resevoirs?!

OK, lesson learned, so after bleeding that caliper till all the air was out and doing a full reperformance of all circuits with another liter of fluid just in case, does the ABS/PSM need special bleeding with Durametric or is it good?

Theoretically speaking that is...

5CHN3LL

If the brakes feel normal, you got the air out. If the pedal feels like mush, you didn't get the air out.

*HINT* Start the car in the driveway and try this out with the e-brake set, rather than, say, merging onto the freeway before verifying that the brakes are functional.

If you're really paranoid, switch brake fluid colors and bleed until you see new color at all corners plus the clutch. You might want to consider a different / more engaged assistant.

Viper6

Bingo... wifey was apparently on her union break after already assiting me with 3 other rides on our annual "bleed the fleet" day... second only in popularity to "tax deduction documentation day."

Brakes are firm as morning wood... I'll consider it bled!

The proceedure for bleeding the clutch is unlike any other vehicle I've ever have had either (although I've always done the pump and bleed with assistant and not with a Motive style pressure bleeder). Clutch pedal depressed, turn in circles three times, drink a beer and do the hokey pokey... this car is entertaining to service!

FSM = A MUST HAVE!

pek771

I rebuilt the two front calipers on my 01 986. Bled the system with a Motive bleeder, brakes were a little mushy. I re-bled them with a Mity-Vac, still mushy. I am doing the rears very soon.

Do I need to invest in a Durametric? It seems the consensus answer here is yes.

philooo

I am curious to hear the proper process when using the durametric ?

Do I start the durametric abs pump before I do the bleeding ? leave it on while bleading ?

I mean how does it work when using the durametric to activate the ABS ?