Open Hood Problem
#1
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Open Hood Problem
Well,
Done all the procedures: Connected the Jumper to the Hood (pull out) in the fuse box.......no open--hear a faint clicking sound somewhere in the center console. Sounds like under the Nav on drivers side.
Removed front passagers side wheel and plastic shroud, didn't find the cable release wire anywhere in the opening near the headlight.
Any suggestions! Other than having it towed to the dealer.
Was using Durametric Diagnostic to see the trouble codes and now the car when I try to start it: Clicks and flashes dash idiot lights, guess that serves me appropriately.
Thanks in advance (havent seen one play of Super Bowl)
Ed
Done all the procedures: Connected the Jumper to the Hood (pull out) in the fuse box.......no open--hear a faint clicking sound somewhere in the center console. Sounds like under the Nav on drivers side.
Removed front passagers side wheel and plastic shroud, didn't find the cable release wire anywhere in the opening near the headlight.
Any suggestions! Other than having it towed to the dealer.
Was using Durametric Diagnostic to see the trouble codes and now the car when I try to start it: Clicks and flashes dash idiot lights, guess that serves me appropriately.
Thanks in advance (havent seen one play of Super Bowl)
Ed
#3
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Ed, What are you connecting to the jumper? It has to be a car battery (ordinary charger won't work) with positive to the pull-out piece with the negative grounded to bare metal, such as door hinge. The clicking is normally what you hear with insufficient power or connection.
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Ed, What are you connecting to the jumper? It has to be a car battery (ordinary charger won't work) with positive to the pull-out piece with the negative grounded to bare metal, such as door hinge. The clicking is normally what you hear with insufficient power or connection.
Will try it again using shorter jumper cables....might be losing V
Used the door latch U for negative.
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thx
Will try the hood pressure with the jump scenario again.
#6
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Your truck battery should supply more than enough power. The release is on its own circuit. You might also want to try other bare metal ground points. GL
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Did see the door lights dim when the connection was made and again hear the clicking in the center console. No luck.
Going to wait over night and think on it.
Thanks for the impute two heads are better than one.
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#9
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Ahsai's suggestion is a definite solution if you can get access to the engine compartment; there's a jumping point (+) under a plastic cover toward the back, passenger side. Others have reported that they found it necessary to find a bolt under the car to make an effective ground for the fuse panel pop-out method. You might also be able to charge the battery enough through a cigarette lighter charger.
#11
Ahsai's suggestion is a definite solution if you can get access to the engine compartment; there's a jumping point (+) under a plastic cover toward the back, passenger side. Others have reported that they found it necessary to find a bolt under the car to make an effective ground for the fuse panel pop-out method. You might also be able to charge the battery enough through a cigarette lighter charger.
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Thanks again all whom helped.
Battery was dying yesterday and battery....dead....this morning, no interior lights etc.
I did jump the hood trick again this morning with the battery (back in the truck and running) attaching the ground to the jack pad hole under the car for a better connection and the HOOD solenoid got enough voltage to open.
Went down and picked up a new battery and installed.
All's well ......with now.
Ed
Battery was dying yesterday and battery....dead....this morning, no interior lights etc.
I did jump the hood trick again this morning with the battery (back in the truck and running) attaching the ground to the jack pad hole under the car for a better connection and the HOOD solenoid got enough voltage to open.
Went down and picked up a new battery and installed.
All's well ......with now.
Ed
#15