ATL Fahrer

You bring up a good question. One year ago, I was asking myself the same thing. In the end, I decided to forego the IMS bearing replacement and purchase the Fidelity Platinum extended warranty. My reasoning was this - spend ~$3K on a 3yr warranty which would cover the IMS failure along with just about everything else, or, ~$3K on the LNE IMS bearing replacement (hope I'm not off base mentioning "brands" here). I went with the warranty as there are more things that can go wrong with the car than just the IMS and in 3 years, IF I still have this car, I'll go with kit.

BTW, my warranty just about paid for itself with some issues discovered at my recent 30K service interval

roadsession

UPDATE: I just picked up my car.

It is a very different car with the new engine.
Everything feels tighter, and power delivery is extremely linear, no flat spots.
IT IS AMAZING.

However I paid about $2K out of pocket - which isn't bad, but I would have thought I would have only been $250 out of pocket (my deductible).

Fidelity Warranty SUCKS - they were really not very cooperative with me or the dealer at all. Very difficult to get a hold of someone that really knows what's going on, and very very difficult with the dealer Service Advisor.

At the end of the day, I am happy with my new engine, and that $2K isn't a terrible deal, and such, but the experience with Fidelity left much to be desired. If I and my SA didn't keep on them 5X a day, I'm convinced they'd never have paid and let this wallow for months.

redridge

Good job... enjoy the new motor! the break in period is a b*tch though.

balefire

I think you might be unlucky.

Counterpoint: I have a Fidelity Warranty on my 996 40th. Yes, the internet suckered me. 9 months, 10k miles later, I haven't not used it once, knock on wood.
I would bet that I am closer to the norm or insurance companies would lose money. And they have lots of mathematicians to make sure they don't.
Some people like insurance. It gives them peace of mind.
From a mathematical sense, they are a poor investment if you are able to self insure.

roadsession

So let me relate to you my experience.
I paid $4K for my warranty.
I paid $4K in repairs my stupid warranty DIDN'T cover.
I paid $2K in the difference between what the warranty paid for, and what the dealer charged.

So I'm out $10K in the last 2 yrs.

I could have changed the IMS bearing as a preventative for $2K
I could have changed the AOS and Alternator and Water pump as preventative for another $2K.
Total $4K.

This is MY EXAMPLE and YMMV.

But right now I have a new engine that comes complete with a new AOS, new waterpump, new EVERYTHING so I'm not going to dwell on it any longer and enjoy my new Porsche.

roadsession

BTW: I realize this may ignite an all out popcorn fest like the question of "Mobil 1" - but given this is a factory reman - what is the break-in procedure (if any)

redridge

I'm thinking a reman is as new as a new motor.....

https://rennlist.com/996_faq/i.htm

"9. Break In Period

Not really troubleshooting at all but it had to go somewhere. The manual says to keep revs under 4000 for the first 1000 miles. My dealer told me to ignore that and to keep revs under 5000rpm for the first 500 miles and then rev away to my heart's content. Opinion seems to favor sticking to the 4500-5000 'limit' for the first 500 miles or so, edging up to 5,500 until around 900-1000 miles and then going for it. It's important during the break in period to vary speed and revs to allow a "rounded" break in. Some have also suggested a rather early oil change at around 3,000 miles to get rid of any break in contaminates. See the earlier section on religious convictions and fluids. (Hmm, sounds like a line from Dr. Strangelove...)"