StolenMoneyStolen

Howdy!

I have a new-to-me 1999 C4. The car is in great shape. I was feeling really good until I tried to install the Porsche factory rack. Each of the bolts that needed to come out (to be replaced by the RTS mounting bolts) was frozen into the mount. I mean really press-fit into the mount. A buddy of mine and I tried a variety of semi-drastic measures but to no avail (drilling into a bolt so as to use a reverse-threader, etc.).

Nothing worked.

Of course, we could have continued to drill, but we remain unsure of the bolt length--and would need several new, sharper bits....

As a cyclist and skier the thought of not being able to use the rack is a total buzz-kill!

Any suggestions? Anyone else ever experience this issue? I am exceedingly careful with these sort of things, but the screw heads were as soft as butter--I actually thought at first that they were plastic. Any hints appreciated!

jeneric996

It sounds like you tried quite a bit of things. Spray some Liquid Wrench at the tread/based of the bolt. It might help free-up the bolt.

nick49

I deal with stuff all the time. CRC Freeze-off is the best I've found by far, amazing stuff. It's worked where other penetrating lubes did nothing. Another, 2nd best is Kroil. Google it. You can buy at Napa, possibly other auto parts stores. Sometimes you can use dry ice to super cool the screw which will shrink it, then blast it with freeze-off. Sometimes too, drill a small pilot hole in the stuck fastener that you can use an easy out in. Just be very careful and don't use a lot of force, if you break the easy out off your ff ed

zabuch

KROIL WORKS I HAVE TRYED IT FOR REAL

Thundertub

Be careful with the drilling. The only thing under that bolt is your headliner... RIGHT under those bolts. Once you drill through, remember that the headliner is the only thing stopping the penetrating oil from dripping on your seats and carpet. The headliner...

I have had the same issue with my car. I first tried to remove those bolts to install the roof rack when the car was only 4 years old. No go. The dealer made three separate honest attempts including drilling. No go.

However the 3 996's I had before this one all came out -albeit with some real effort - and because the cars were brand new when the bolts were removed.

Best to remove them when the car is new and fill the holes with plumbers clay. Too late now for folks on this forum, though.

Hope the Kroil works. No other excellent penetrating oil budged mine.

ivangene

they are left handed screws - DOH,....kidding!

that sucks, I remove broken and stripped and stuck bolts all the time, there are many ways that work and as you know there is some carnage. Be careful and remember it costs $100k !! (when new)

Heat is one of the best things you can use, not sure of the access but if you can set a ?soldering iron? on the bolt and get it hot? KROIL it and let it sit, light tapping with small hammer, try tightening then loosening, if it moves go back and forth... often times I remove screws by tightening them first -

best of luck, post some pics

StolenMoneyStolen

Thanks for all of the advice! Tomorrow I will start with the Kroil's, but it seems like this one might not be in the cards.... Some pics of the car showing off its new winter rubber.

Hope that everyone has a nice long, holiday weekend.

Ahmet

I've come across this several times (the place holder screws are later changed to plastic by the MKII for this very reason). I've seen three early 996s with this issue, I wouldn't take on this work. The owners of two of those cars tried another indie who wouldn't touch it, and the dealer won't take on the work either...

Anyway, the anchors appear to be bonded to the roof, and I believe they're considered replaceable, though it'd be a fair amount of work. If you decide to drill through then re-tap, use very high quality drill bits. There's room between the end of the factory metal place holder bolt, and the end of the anchor in the roof before you get to the inside of the headliner/roof rail. How much room? Hard to say. I can measure old bolts I have laying around in the shop if you decide to drill though.

Bad problem to have. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

redridge

Love the wheels..... Anymore info?

StolenMoneyStolen

Thanks for noting the wheels. They are from Tire Rack - 17 x 7.5/9 Sport Edition Cup 4. Made possible by Damon from Tire Rack who I became aware of from this forum. Which leads me to another observation: the ride is GREATLY improved with the 17s--to the point of thinking about replacing the summer rubber and wheels (18s). Of course you have a bit of winter tire softness to contend with, but I have 17s on our Audi and know what decent summer tire can feel like as well. I did a 250 mile (each way) road trip for work last week and despite the unseasonably warm temps I was glad to have them on the car; I'm in the NE and the roads are horrible as often written in these [web] pages.....

And again thanks for the additional insights on the roof rack problem. Will update in the coming days.

pontifex4

Just thought I would bump this up, since I'm having quite a time with mine, as noted in my moving van thread.

Broken set screw:



Drilled pilot hole, followed by a larger one not shown -- it's easiest if you drill toward the remaining half of the screw head until you get the bit into the centre, then slowly tilt the drill to upright to get the bit centred on the hole. Once you have a centred small hole, you can usually knock off the remaining half of the screw head with a flat screw driver and a hammer to get a level surface:



Tapping (M6x1.0):



Result: