I just completed replacing my squeaking, groaning lower control arm (Porsche part #996 341 053 16). The arm has a non-replaceable ball joint that just wore out after 90K miles. No sense in recreating the wheel- see here for a DIY write up-
kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html

A few notes- this is a pretty easy DIY, I used a 19mm, 18mm and 17mm open end wrench, a 18 mm socket, vice grips and a NAPA universal ball joint separator (part # 3916). I used the vice grips to hold the bolt head while turning the nut w/ the wrench/socket. I replaced the arm w/ a rebuilt one from vertex purchased off of ebay for $149 shipping included. The nice thing about this arm is that the ball joint can be replaced easily when I hit 180K miles. The torque specs are 56 ball joint, 74 chassis, 118 diagonal (all ft/lbs) 118 seemed way too much and I used 96 instead. I do not see how a torque wrench could fit in the space for the ball joint and chassis bolts so I just got them nice and tight. The diagonal nut is easy to get the wrench on.

Taking it easy and savoring every moment it took me 2 hours. I should get the car aligned but there were no shakes or shimmys on the road test. I will keep an eye on it.

This ball joint wearing out and making noise seems to be a common problem as the mileage starts to accumulate on our cars. Fortunately it is an easy and sort of inexpensive DIY

 

good now you need Alignment

 

Looking at doing the same thing but with the GT3 arms for next weekends DE, glad to know it's a 2 hr job. Front sway bar going in at the same time. Rear sway bar went in last night as I needed something to do.

 

I've got a ball-joint tool if you need it Sean.

 

Interesting point about the replaceable ball joint in the rebuilt unit. I went with the GT3, but that's a nice feature.

You should get the alignment done. My camber was still fine after doing the job but the toe was way off. That's the sort of thing you might not feel, but will cost you pair of tires quickly.

-Shawn

 

Also need 21mm socket, which I didn't have in my tool set, neither do I have 18mm socket or wrench, these sizes are uncommon and are skipped in my tool set.....

The upside is local hardware store chain has wrench set on sale for 60% off this week.

 

Thanks for reviving this thread. I've got this project coming up in the next week or two.

 

In that case I should also mention long L-shaped Torx T-40 Key to hold the ball joint stud from turning while the nut is being loosened or tightened.

EDIT: Now that I've finished replacing the two rear LCAs, the Torx key was not necessary, because the tapered fit prevents the threaded shaft of the installed ball joint from turning while loosening the nylon-lock nut, and you can raise the ball joint of the new LCA with a padded floor jack into the tapered fit receptacle so again the threaded stud doesn't turn when the new nylon lock-nut is being tightened.

FYI the drive shafts are in the way of easy access to the ball joint nut, you will need a long open/box end wrench and lots of time to loosen this nut on each side.

 

Bought two on closeout from Rock Auto for $120/pair delivered. We will see what they look like when they arrive.

 

Wow. You could buy poly bushings for them and still be under 2 bills. They would probably be better than stock.

Ps. Your home track is a total blast.

 

That is a good point about the poly. I only ordered a pair for the front, I may order another set for the rear. And then see about poly. Not sure.


Glad you had a good time at MSR. The 3.1 combines the flowing relatively flat 1.7 with the chaotic, blind corner, hilly, switchback 1.3 into a fun course. I honestly like ECR as much, but will not go back until they repave. COTA is just too much money for me. If you want a wild ride, you must do the day trip to VIR or Road Atlanta. Those two tracks make MSR seem simple and easy. If you have even more time, go out to the Glen. Love those three tracks, just don't have the time to drive out to them since I now live in Tx.

 

Everyone that puts the polyurethane bushings into any suspension component should first learn how these things actually work and, why using them is not really a good idea in a suspension part that was not built to have a urethane bearing in it (after all, that's exactly what they are).

 

skip urethane and go monoball

 

Never on a street car. Those joints are not meant for the abuse of daily or even street driving. Just because something is used in racing, doesn't mean it will do well in street use.

 

Outside of perhaps winter usage, I (and I'm sure many others) strongly disagree. I run them at all 4 corners with great results, besides cost I don't see any downside. The positive benefits are great
Cheers,