Clock Spring Tab Repair - Here's How
09-05-2010, 10:48 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clock Spring Tab Repair - Here's How
Dear Friends:
If your signal switch fails to cancel automatically, the culprit may be a broken tab on the clock spring (sometimes called contact unit) located between the steering wheel and signal switch. Having found no thread on repairing this and just having successfully done it, thought this might save others the cost of a replacement. First a couple of quick notes. If your signal won’t hold in one direction and won’t cancel in the other, it’s probably the switch. If it is the clock spring, before doing this repair, check to see why it broke - one problem is if your column signal switch has been removed previously, it could have replaced too far forward (toward front end of car), which ultimately causes the damage. This may also be accompanied by rubbing sounds when turning the steering wheel.
Follow this instructional video for removal of the clock spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hux78ZoPcAI (Whoever created the video did nice work.)
Photo 1 below shows the broken tab and Photo 2 shows a close-up of the area you’ll be dealing with. The first step is to cut the old tab off flush. I did this with a coping saw with a fine-toothed blade. Next, file away the remaining lip just below the opening between the ribs until you have an even surface down to the bevel; leave the bevel in tact. I did this with a small file. At that point it should look like Photo 3.
To fabricate a replacement tab, I used a section cut from a 1½" plastic drain collar (tail piece.) (If this is getting too ghetto, it’s not too late to bail now). This provides the correct thickness and radius. Cut the length of the piece so that it comes down to the bevel and extends 3/8" above. Use 80 grit sandpaper to rough up the inside of the surface above the bevel between the ribs of the clock spring down to the bevel. Cut the width of the new piece slightly oversize and work it down gradually over a piece of sandpaper until it is friction fit. Prepare the surface that will be attached by roughing it up with the 80 grit paper. Use a solvent on a paper towel for final prep.
Once you are satisfied with the fit, apply a suitable adhesive (I used Plastic Weld epoxy) to both parts and the inside of the ribs where it touches. If you have worked down the width correctly, the fit should hold it in place while the glue sets. I let the glue set to the final curing time. The finished project should look something like Photo 4. I checked the clearances using an old switch and the steering wheel and found no issues. Once everything was back together, it works fine.
A rather simple project - and a savings of $240!!!
Best Regards,
Mark
If your signal switch fails to cancel automatically, the culprit may be a broken tab on the clock spring (sometimes called contact unit) located between the steering wheel and signal switch. Having found no thread on repairing this and just having successfully done it, thought this might save others the cost of a replacement. First a couple of quick notes. If your signal won’t hold in one direction and won’t cancel in the other, it’s probably the switch. If it is the clock spring, before doing this repair, check to see why it broke - one problem is if your column signal switch has been removed previously, it could have replaced too far forward (toward front end of car), which ultimately causes the damage. This may also be accompanied by rubbing sounds when turning the steering wheel.
Follow this instructional video for removal of the clock spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hux78ZoPcAI (Whoever created the video did nice work.)
Photo 1 below shows the broken tab and Photo 2 shows a close-up of the area you’ll be dealing with. The first step is to cut the old tab off flush. I did this with a coping saw with a fine-toothed blade. Next, file away the remaining lip just below the opening between the ribs until you have an even surface down to the bevel; leave the bevel in tact. I did this with a small file. At that point it should look like Photo 3.
To fabricate a replacement tab, I used a section cut from a 1½" plastic drain collar (tail piece.) (If this is getting too ghetto, it’s not too late to bail now). This provides the correct thickness and radius. Cut the length of the piece so that it comes down to the bevel and extends 3/8" above. Use 80 grit sandpaper to rough up the inside of the surface above the bevel between the ribs of the clock spring down to the bevel. Cut the width of the new piece slightly oversize and work it down gradually over a piece of sandpaper until it is friction fit. Prepare the surface that will be attached by roughing it up with the 80 grit paper. Use a solvent on a paper towel for final prep.
Once you are satisfied with the fit, apply a suitable adhesive (I used Plastic Weld epoxy) to both parts and the inside of the ribs where it touches. If you have worked down the width correctly, the fit should hold it in place while the glue sets. I let the glue set to the final curing time. The finished project should look something like Photo 4. I checked the clearances using an old switch and the steering wheel and found no issues. Once everything was back together, it works fine.
A rather simple project - and a savings of $240!!!
Best Regards,
Mark
09-05-2010, 11:20 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Tim...just trying to scratch my way back to even after being a late intro pic poster! 
Seriously, Happy Labor Day to All.
Seriously, Happy Labor Day to All.
09-06-2010, 12:28 PM
#6
Wow, that's a complicated fix for what at first look seems like a minor repair. Great video, photos, and write-up. I hope I never need it but it's nice to know that someone has taken the time to fully document the procedure. I guess it's like replacing a light bulb on the Hubble telescope - the repair itself is easy, it's getting to it that is a bit difficult.
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10-15-2013, 12:06 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Cool fix, but I'm wondering which is which... the switch or the clock spring?
At first, my signal wouldn't hold on the right, now it does magically... Now it just won't cancel after I turn... what could that be?
At first, my signal wouldn't hold on the right, now it does magically... Now it just won't cancel after I turn... what could that be?
