Is my car faster than a 2001 S4 ?
#47
#49
#50
i know i was running low 9's (in the 1/8 mile) during my first trip to the track in my s4. Which was chipped, full exhaust, light weight flywheel with downpipes. I think it was pushing about 18 psi at maximum boost IIRC.
In my 996 with the mods noted in my sig... my first run in the 1/8 was a 9.2 secs. BTW my first time driving the car at a track. I bet i could have been in the mid 8's.
In my 996 with the mods noted in my sig... my first run in the 1/8 was a 9.2 secs. BTW my first time driving the car at a track. I bet i could have been in the mid 8's.
#53
I think that an 11 second 3.4 car with bolts ons is very wishful thinking.
My 1999 car has a 3.6 in it custom tune and nearly all the important bolt ons and it makes 299hp at the wheels on a dyno used to check racecars for a HP vs Weight series (NASA racing). Therefore; conservative.
I thought that I turned a 12.6 but just double checked and it was a 12.3 in the 1/4 mile (Nearly 2 years ago).
The #'s were 12.3 seconds in the 1/4 mile at 116mph.
I was super easy on the clutch taking off in 1st so a terrible 60ft time but quick 1/8 mile speed at 92. The 0-100 was pretty good too at 9.9 seconds
I sheered off an axle on my last run trying to improve my launch, not recommended.
I would need to drop 400 lbs and gain about 40 more real hp at the wheels to be in the high 11s. Not likely without head work and cams.
For the record; I am not a drag racer, just went out for some fun to see what the car would do after an engine swap.
-Paul
My 1999 car has a 3.6 in it custom tune and nearly all the important bolt ons and it makes 299hp at the wheels on a dyno used to check racecars for a HP vs Weight series (NASA racing). Therefore; conservative.
I thought that I turned a 12.6 but just double checked and it was a 12.3 in the 1/4 mile (Nearly 2 years ago).
The #'s were 12.3 seconds in the 1/4 mile at 116mph.
I was super easy on the clutch taking off in 1st so a terrible 60ft time but quick 1/8 mile speed at 92. The 0-100 was pretty good too at 9.9 seconds
I sheered off an axle on my last run trying to improve my launch, not recommended.
I would need to drop 400 lbs and gain about 40 more real hp at the wheels to be in the high 11s. Not likely without head work and cams.
For the record; I am not a drag racer, just went out for some fun to see what the car would do after an engine swap.
-Paul
#54
Any Idea what your 60ft was? I always figured a full bolt on well tuned 3.4 ~280whp would cut about 12.5's with a really good driver. This makes me think maybe 12.3's with really sticky tires and a good launch.
#56
60ft ET was low 2s. not in front of the data right now.
Also a 3.4 at 280rwhp is at the top end of the spectrum with just bolt on upgrades and not the norm according to the guys building Spec996 race cars. About the only way to get to that # on a 3.4 bolt -on would be to re-time the engine to properly synchronize and time both banks which almost nobody does.
The 3.6L motor is good for so much more HP most due to the VC plus. At 299RWHP I am actually still running quite rich. I have no interest in developing the car further so it will stay as is.
Also a 3.4 at 280rwhp is at the top end of the spectrum with just bolt on upgrades and not the norm according to the guys building Spec996 race cars. About the only way to get to that # on a 3.4 bolt -on would be to re-time the engine to properly synchronize and time both banks which almost nobody does.
The 3.6L motor is good for so much more HP most due to the VC plus. At 299RWHP I am actually still running quite rich. I have no interest in developing the car further so it will stay as is.
#58
2 years ago the process was not super well known, nowadays easy peasy.
Just work with a shop that absolutely has done it and not just read about it. And it doesn't need to cost an arm and a leg. The cost was between 11K and 15K depending on new motor vs used. I was very much on the low side of that figure.
Depending on the year car you have will determine all your options and costs. You just need to make the tradeoffs.
If you yourself are a good wrench it can be a DIY but you will need someone to retune your ECU for it to run correctly. There are lots more folks now to do that too. Best if you can take the car to them for the tuning to happen on a dyno for the best result.
-Paul
Just work with a shop that absolutely has done it and not just read about it. And it doesn't need to cost an arm and a leg. The cost was between 11K and 15K depending on new motor vs used. I was very much on the low side of that figure.
Depending on the year car you have will determine all your options and costs. You just need to make the tradeoffs.
If you yourself are a good wrench it can be a DIY but you will need someone to retune your ECU for it to run correctly. There are lots more folks now to do that too. Best if you can take the car to them for the tuning to happen on a dyno for the best result.
-Paul
#59
My Audi A6 Avant will not beat ANY car in the 1/4 mile ... unless ... we are runing on a Glazier! Then with my Ice tires we are ready to take on the world - and have the Dog and the Box and the Bikes come along for the trip.