@ $40/hr I would not touch my car....

IIRC the going rate round these parts is about 3.5x that
@ $40 a 4 hour job like an AOS would cost $160 ??? name the guy stupid enough to do that job for that price

 

You don't have to be mechanically inclined and do the work yourself if you can afford to have the car maintained and serviced when it needs to be. Not everyone can do their own work for various reasons.

That the car you're looking at has 113K miles suggests it has been been taken care of and has a better than average engine and is probably good for another 100K miles. If you proceed you must have the car subjected to a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified tech who knows these cars inside and out.

If you buy the car, though, there will be things happen. While the engine will probably be ok various accessories can require attention.

My experience is with an 02 Boxster (bought new in Jan 02) and it currently has over 233K miles on its original engine, clutch, transmission.

However, it has required since around 80K (in no particular order) a wheel bearing, MAF, couple of O2 sensors, battery, fuel pump, water pump, radiator fan resistor, passenger door lock, new plastic window. Of course various wear/tear items have been replaced over the years when needed or when due.

It needs at least one converter but I'm nursing the original ones as long as I can. Oil consumption up to about 1 quart in 5K miles. I have changed the oil since day one every 5K miles, running Mobil 1 15w-50, then Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, and most recently Castrol Syntec 5w-50.

I've probably put more miles on the car with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil than most have miles on their car. I think a factor in this oil's performance is that I change it every 5K miles and I subject the car probably the best kind of driving one can.

A 100K mile car can be a good buy -- I don't know if the price you posted is a good price or not you'll have to do your research -- cause 100K sort of scares people away. If one's a savvy buyer he can pick up the car for a low price -- providing always the car's worth owning -- and save a lot of money vs. buying a newer car. Depreciation is usually the largest expense of a car and buying a high miler example means every other owner has borne the depreciation.

But you have to go in with your eyes open. Worst case is engine failure (though a transmission failure not cheap either). No one can give you accurate odds but if you buy the car at a good price then your loss -- if there is a loss -- should the worst happen and you can't or won't fix it -- will be less. And honestly I think the odds are in your favor the car will run another 100K miles.

Determine your comfort level for risk and if you find it acceptable with this car then move forward. It is just a 10 year old used car. If you're uncomfortable then keep looking.

You have lots of choices.

Added: Forgot to mention the car also has had 2 AOSs and an ignition switch.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

19k and around there is too high for shopping and seeing that mileage. Waiting and watching you probably would see an even lower price mixed with lower miles. Remember like mentioned things change if the engine was replaced not too long ago.

 

my car is a low mileage 2000 996 and there is always something to do, all have been minor but I only have 30k miles on the car. I would not buy a car with 100k plus on it. It will have issues, even minor ones cost money to fix and forget about resale.

 

I just purchased a '99 at 115K. Its my third 911--though my first watercooled. Each car was over 100K.

There's no particular reservation or problem with 100+K; period. Like any car, it depends on the car and what you know about the ownership, maintenance, problems, etc. Documentation is always good, but not a stone-cold requirement. Depends on how you do your homework and your comfort level.

If you can get past the conventional paranoia on this particular model 911--IMS, RMS--then its best to understand that lower mileage vs higher mileage is no guarantee, or even a good predicter of what "will" happen. In fact, and it may have been expressed already, a lower mileage 996 at this point could be more worrisome--the IMS may not have been "lubed" enough through proper driving. But, hey, that's just internet wisdom, you know?

Take it for what it's worth to you: my thinking was that at 115K, "if it was going to happen, it would have by now." After that, it was a question about what I could find out about upkeep and replacement of worn or failed items, and a good PPI. Every thing after that is a crap shoot with any car.

So, decide the maximum amount you can have sitting in your or someone else's garage if something goes wrong, and work from there. Plenty of good opportunities. And, year and mileage is not a specific predictor of what the price should be--difference is upkeep. Could be the difference between a $17.5 car and $19.5 car.

Anyway, bottom line is that its about the car specifically, not the mileage generally.

 

Totally agree.

Personally it's the low mileage cars that would scare me to having the IMS done right after buying it. On a hige mileage car I wouldn't bother or worry. If it hasn't failed it is fine.

 

my IMS was in great condition @ 95k miles. I replaced it anyway for peace of mind plus i didnt do all that work for nothing..

 

send me your 95k mile bearing and I will photo it under the microscope and return it along with send you the pictures

 

I had to send it into LN for my warranty!

 

^^^ +1
You could end up with a 20-40k mile car, that has not been well-maintained, abused, or simply is one of those ticking time bombs. Judge a car by its condition and history, mileage does affect pricing though.

When I bought my 2002 in 2006, it had 70k miles. I checked the history, called up it's first and only owner, and found out he was a corporate executive who travels out of town a lot. Highway miles on the Pcar....was perfect for me. That with a full service history from the dealership in south FL, not a drop of oil, original engine. Today at 97k the engine is still rock solid.

Research, PPI, and negotiate for a better price. Good Luck if you buy!

 

I was the original poster for this topic. Let me tell you what I know about this car. It was a one owner car in south carolina. It looks like the owner didn't use porsche service. It was probably too far away from him. He drove it until Nov 08 and put 106,000 miles on it. It was traded in at HBL Porsche on a new porsche. The independent shop owner who purchased it from HBL has a son who is a tech at HBL. The car interior and exterior looks like some of the cars I have seen that only have about 60k on them. I will ask for a price reduction and also that it has a PPI from porsche. I hope that after that I can tell that the car will be worth it. It is only going to be a weekend driver in the spring summer and fall.
Steve

 

It's nice that it's a 1 owner car. If i were looking at this car, I would have an extensive PPI done by a independent Porsche specialist, not the dealer.

In additional to a traditional PPI, I would pay the extra $$$ and get a compression test done as well.

My car had 36K on it when I bought it, is covered by a CPO warranty until 2/2011, and I still had a PPI done by and indy porsche shop.