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Well, I tried, but failed! A breeze it's NOT! I got all the vents out, disconnected the headlight switch and ignition switch. Then, I nearly killed myself trying to reach into the void and turn the set screw with a tiny screwdriver. It wouldn't budge. I then tried sticking my head under the dash, to see if I could reach the other screw. I couldn't. Cursing, I put the whole thing back together, and had a defeat beer.
For those who say this takes 20 minutes, do you have 6 foot arms that reach under the dash?
That's strange...The screw shouldn't be under a lot of pressure. There is some paint on it but once you chip that away the thing should move pretty easily. Were you using a jewelers screwdriver? That's essentially what I had to use since it was such a small screw.
No six foot arms here...Hell I wish I was six feet tall for that matter!
The new switch works like a charm, dead smooth I would say , not having bought a brand new porsche ever I guess how this must feel coming straight from the dealership.
AndyK. The two screws that you need to loosen, and I do mean loosen, do not remove all the way are just holding screws. The screwdriver you need is a very very small one, it needs to actually fit in the hole thats there after you scrape off the red paint. Granted one of my screws was a little tougher but it's just a matter of getting the screwdriver to turn and thats it. You shouldn't have to disconnect the headlight switch or anything. I attacked one screw through the left vent hole, and the other from under the dash. If you get a Jewelers screwdriver and a flashlight you could get both done from underneath just as easily if you pull the seat back the whole way. I actually spent most of my time trying to find a flat head screwdriver to fit in the holes.
I had a jewelers screwdriver that fit into the slotted screw, but I just couldn't get it to turn the screw at all. I had no leverage with my left arm stuck through the vent hole, grasping for the little set screw. When I tried getting under the dash, I physically couldn't squeeze in there enough to even see the other screw. Maybe if I reclined the seat back, and slithered under there on my back? But at 45, my back isn't up to that kind of contortionist action.
Well, I tried, but failed! A breeze it's NOT! I got all the vents out, disconnected the headlight switch and ignition switch. Then, I nearly killed myself trying to reach into the void and turn the set screw with a tiny screwdriver. It wouldn't budge. I then tried sticking my head under the dash, to see if I could reach the other screw. I couldn't. Cursing, I put the whole thing back together, and had a defeat beer.
For those who say this takes 20 minutes, do you have 6 foot arms that reach under the dash?
Some have recommended using a thumb driver to get more leverage on the tiny set screws. I got lucky and mine loosened without a fight.
Great idea, I found it easier to go under the dash instead of thought the vent, however it is a tight squeeze. The thumb driver looks like a great idea.
Funny you should say that you didn't have the leverage, I actually put my right arm in through the vent, hold the screwdriver in reverse as if you were going to stab yourself with it, then put your hand down into the vent, that half twist should be enough to break any resistance.
I bet you can't get bits small enough to use with a thumb drive socket wrench. Do they even make jeweler's screw sizes in bit form? I also needed a thumb drive for the damned torx screws on the vent panel! With the door in the way, most normal screwdrivers didn't fit! And, my torx bit driver was too thick to fit into the headlight switch area torx screw! The whole thing was a mess!
Andy.... sorry you're having a hard time. I did indeed recline the seat and lay upside down with my head on the floor. I'm a bit over 45 myself, so i had no problem getting under there, but getting out was another story. I almost had to call a tow truck I used a very small screw driver (cant remember exactly what kind), but it loosened pretty easily once I chiseled a little of the paint blob away. I'm not sure why your's is so tight, but make sure the paint is removed enough to get a good bite w/ the screw driver. Then get under there giving your arm enough room to manuever and give yourself some leverage.
Had a local install one for 200 in Dallas. This seems to be a common problem, and probably wouldnt hurt to have a spare handy along with the DIY instructions for when it happens again. This is the 2nd replacement for me and both had different sympotms before the went out.
1st. difficulty getting the key in and out of starter and would not click.
2nd one, a/c and lights were not coming on when car was running.
when car is running, you just turn the key a lil' further to the left & everything will work, lights, air, wipers, etc..., if you turn key to far, it will shut down the car, & you'll have to re-start, but when you turn off ignition make SURE you pull out key to the left or your battery will be dead in the morning, to check & make sure car is off, just listen to radio & if key is on off, the radio will eventually shut off, if not key is still in on position.
Next time remember it's often the switch itself that is bad and can be purchased for I think about $40. Installation can be done in less than 30 minutes (10 minutes if you've done it once before!). I just had to do mine about 4-5 months ago.
I bet you can't get bits small enough to use with a thumb drive socket wrench. Do they even make jeweler's screw sizes in bit form? I also needed a thumb drive for the damned torx screws on the vent panel! With the door in the way, most normal screwdrivers didn't fit! And, my torx bit driver was too thick to fit into the headlight switch area torx screw! The whole thing was a mess!
Here's how a friend solved not having the right size screwdriver to do the job...
My ignition switch failed on my '99 996 with 43k miles. I have trouble taking the key in and out of the ignition. The A/C and the windshield wipers do not work when the engine is running, and when I maneuver the key out of the ignition, the odomoter, speedometer, and clock display remains on. How do I know if I need to replace just the Ignition Swtich, for the Electrical Portion Only (part # 4A0-905-849-B-M352) which costs about $11.00 or the entire Ignition Switch, Steering Lock Assembly which costs approximately $170.00 (part # 996-347-017-07-M100) ? I have not had any of these parts replaced in the past. I appreciate the help.
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