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Instead of pulling, try pushing to see if the broken end comes out at the end of bead (channel)...it is possible a kink developed and is keeping it from sliding smoothly.
I finally got to do the work over the weekend, happy with the result, compared to how it looked previously.
I sourced the cable from Lowe's home improvement for less than 10 dollars (like 20 feet of it).........and can make eyelets to crimp at both ends.......
By the way....the length of the cable......33.5 inches from eyelet to eyelet
Excellent I'm going to have a go today and video it for youtube. Wish me luck...
Looking forward to the video !
I struggled for months trying to get this done until I found the post with the instructions, but a video will make it extremely easy for the next person !
Well Now I need a crimping tool! It's never ending!! I got the cable out by spraying WD40 into the lining and then pulling it. No problem. Threaded the new one through and hooked it onto the spring no problem... now for clamping.
To get access to the cable on the top end.
1. Remove 3 torx above window
2. Peel back rubber seal
3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws ( the 4th is under a rubber seal and sealing gunk) took me a while to find this one
I'm not sure the next few are required. These are from the front of the top and per side.
4. Remove 2 torx holding the convertible latch in place (the latch will fall)
5. Remove 1 torx holding the rubber seal in place at the corner
6. Remove 1 smaller torx holding the headliner in place
7. Remove 3 torx on the front holding the rubber seal in place
8. Fold rubber seal out of the way
9. Pull the side of the top out and fold it so you can work on the rail.
You may need to peel some of the top away from the base on the front corner.
Boom. You have access to fix the river or replace the tension cable.
IF YOU ARE REPLACING THE TENSION CABLE YOU WILL NEED A HAND HELD HYDRAULIC CRIMPER!!!!! $50 at harbor freight.
In my case the cable broke at the base from corrosion. I used the ECS replacement and it worked perfectly. The old cable pulled right out, I greased the new one and it slid in very easily. Then.....
10. crimp the base cable to the eyelet and re attach the eyelet to the base
11. Hook top eyelet to tension spring.
12. Apply heat wrap to spring/hook
13. Put everything back together
Followed this and a couple other posts to fix my problem with the cable. Thought I'd share.
-Step 4 and on are indeed not needed.
-If you do follow step 4 and on, make sure during reinstallation that you hook the corner of the rubber weather seal back onto the corner of the top frame
-in my case, the rivet that holds the spring to the frame snapped. the right pop rivet size is 5/32 x 1/2.
I struggled for months trying to get this done until I found the post with the instructions, but a video will make it extremely easy for the next person !
Hello,
did you get a chance to post the video? Just bought a 2004 C4S and I have the same problem
Extremely helpful. Thank you for posting the detailed images. I decided against crimping and bought the tension rope from the local stealer for $80 - Part# 997-561-921-00
Good luck, if you need any more input, just post it here.
Thanks
Anders
Originally Posted by abhijitpat
Hello Anders,
Extremely helpful. Thank you for posting the detailed images. I decided against crimping and bought the tension rope from the local stealer for $80 - Part# 997-561-921-00
07-15-2016, 05:07 PM
