+1 for the '99's! So does this mean that you should replace the WP with a metal impeller one? Who sells the billet impellers?

 

OK, No my propeller was fine. The job was done. it took a little more than 8 min like the video shows. But the video is perfect.

BUT I think I know why plastic impeller. I may get flamed for this but I called it as I saw it...

I put the pump on and the impeller was rubbing very slightly against the block.. Ever so slight. I could turn it by hand no problem.. and it even spun a bit when I turned it fast.. Like I said ever so slight... So silly me I pull it back out... Then when I got to looking at the old vs new, I could see where the old pump had rubbed also at one point. So I think this is the way it is designed. I figured a new pump was to rub a little and it would set into place after a min or two of running... and it did. I ran the car for about 2 min. shut it down and took the belt back off and turned the pump and it was fine.... No rub at all.. took the car for 40 mile drive and it was perfect. So I know I have a really tight tollerance in there to get the best pump action possible... Am I crazy or correct.

The job took about 3 hours.. But I did it twice..... I think I could do another in less than 1.5 hrs

 

Was your original impeller plastic or metal? Sounds like the new one was plastic??
I wonder if the Boxster metal replacement mentioned earlier was tight enough to scuff the block?

 

Both are plastic.. I am not saying what I did was correct. But it did all seem to make sense after I got looking at things.

 

when you do the IMS upgrade you cane to remove the tensioner. The button is hard to see (you have to look directly into the hole with light) but I think LNE offers a replacement that can be done without removing the entire arm (which requires motor teardown)

Jake can answer that best - BUT for me, the plan was to look in there (since its open while doing the retrofit) and see if there was anything I could tell, then decide to replace if available.

You can just set the motor to TCD and pull the tensioner and have a look too....if you saw the 2 parts (LNE's and OEM) on a bench side by side you would be shocked and in wonderment as to why the OEM part is in your car.

(sorry guys, just the truth)


I hope that Q was about the arm and not the WP.... if for the waterpump, I would not replace as a preventative item, Jake may have a differant opinion and maybe after hearing his I could be pursuaded to re-think my opinion) - I am easily swayed these days

 

ivangene, I posted pics of the two different tensioner buttons on the previous page of the thread..

 

got it Jake, but my Q is..... can just the button be replaced thru the tensioner hole.

 

Actually, I think I have noticed the fans running more on the 997 than on my 996. This has been with or without the AC running.

 

I've never tried it.. I am sure it could be done, but would not be fun or easy. Accessibility isn't the greatest.

 

To remove the rear engine brace would have taken removing the exhaust. Just and FYI

 

yea, but you gain HUGE........... TRACKS OF LAND !

 

The exhaust on the 996 is the easiest exhaust to remove that I've ever seen. You won't believe it til the first time you do it.

 

good thing they made it easy to remove the mufflers... as you need to remove them 5 times per year...

 

if you drove it more you wouldnt have to remove them for cob-web removal

 

After I installed the pump I spun it by hand and it was indeed hitting about every 180 degrees, so twice per revolution.I moved the pulley back and forth over the contact points to "mark up" the offending impeller blades. I then removed the pump to have a look-see and sure enough I could see where two of the blades were making contact.I gently filed down a little meat on each one and reinstalled, Perfect! With that being said I am going to replace the w/p on my 996 because of age and mileage 99' w/90k It looks to be the original pump.My thinking is to go w/ the oem plastic impeller pump and if there is any interference I can file those blades as well.It's a fine line.Plastic impeller= blocked cooling capillaries or Metal impeller= Your own mini milling machine (If the the bearing fails) I choose Plastic!!