The pictures appear to show the gauge should disconnect from the LCDs. Looks like the separation point is at the white tabs marked with the red arrows. The center black arrow is the ribbon connector between the gage faces and the LCD circuit board. Arrow to the left marks the screw that is used to lock the white tabs. The left and right bottom arrows may also need to be unplugged to remove top.

 

Ok so as I am not taking challenges like that lightly, I went for it...

Even though it is easy... youhave to pretty much unscrew every single screw you can see. You can detach the far left and far right dial easily by simply removing the connectors and pulling the tabs, but to remove the speedo, rev and gas gage (those 3 dials are coming as one piece, you have to completely remove the circuit board in the back. Only when the circuit board is removed you can gain access to the last screw holding the rpm dial and also have access to two smal tabs that hold the three dials to the main mold. Enjoy the pics..

Before doing that, figure that I put bak my black speedo as I realized my radio display 'PROTECT' and would not work ! arghhh

So the question is: If I switch the dials, I use my old circuit board... Will my radio work !!! ??? I am not sure If I want to attempt this... even though the temptation is great

Opinions ?

 

Very Nice job: That is what I expected, looks like you’re technical. You should be ok switching gauge faces since all the CPU information is on the LCD board. I would give it a try. The silver gauge is much better looking than the black. Not sure why you’re getting a radio error, it must be the 2003 MOST system tied with the gauge LCD board. Whatever you do don’t pull of the gauge needles without marking the operating position of each needle; you may through the calibration off.

 

Conclusion of this DIY story.

After my failed attempt to mount a completely new cluster in my car, because the radio would stop working , protect message, and also my mileage would not be right, I am now attempting to install the gray background dial over my original circuit board. Why all that work instead of jsut switching the background ? ... I did not want to simply switch the dial background as there are too many post talking about breaking the mechanism while pulling on the needles or throwing the needle out of 'alignment'.

So today I removed my black original cluster AGAIN ... I opened it up to the last bit to remove the black dials, I mean the whole 3 center components (odometer, rev, gas) and the two small ones (battery, oil temp). Then I replaced them with my new grey background components.

So I end up with my old cluster main circuit board, which contain the little lcd screen at the bottom of the RPM meter, and on top of that my 5 grey background component. I was a bit scared to do this again with no guarantee that the old circuit board would communicate properly with the new dials, but it works ! My Frankenstein cluster is working perfectly well. All gauges working and my radio (MOST) is also working fine.

So for those of you who wondered if it is possible, now you have your answer

see below pics of the cluster with proper mileage and playing nice with the radio:

 

You found a new definiton of pain.

 

Wow, congrats to you. I don't have that kind of patience or nuts to do that. Very nice job.

 

Phil, good for you! I like the white (actually silver) gauge faces.

 

nice!

dont let the air-cooled guys give ya crap, they have a secret "issue" with odometers that requires an operation too....(ask me how I found out )


WTG on your success!

 

Nice, job...now do the IMS upgrade. See how in the new issue of Excellence magazine.

 

Great write up.

 

About the IMS funny you mention that, as I'd love to do it ! i just feel that I don't have all the info I need. The DIY are pretty good but in Mechanics I am really a newbie, I hope some better more precise DYI will pop up as I'd really love to do it. I also have a PSS10 install that I'd love to do

 

The new issue of Excellence magazine has the complete step by step procedure for the IMS upgrade. Some of the steps are an over kill but a great write up. The hard part of the IMS upgrade is removing the transmission, labor intensive.

 

Chris996 and philoo, you are my heroes!

This was all the information I needed!
I bought a "pristine" used cluster on eBay for $250 which then of course turned out as a piece of junk. But with your findings it turns out that my old (partially broken) cluster and the (partially broken) cluster from eBay were a perfect match and after following your instructions and assembling the good pieces from both clusters into one good one I now have a working cluster again

You da man!

 

So this is a new style cluster. Does anyone know if this will work with an Old style cluster? I have a 99 Boxster and want to install a 996 cluster but the clock on the 996 cluster is damaged and trying to avoid the cost of getting it fixed.

 

Hi philooo,

does your airbag warning light have normal function at startup?
I mean does the warning light appears for some seconds after you switched ignition on?

At my 2004 996 C2 I tried the same.

After I connected one spare part instument cluster I saw the mileage from this spare part. After changing back to original one my airbaig warning light is always off.
regards
Peter