Originally Posted by nick49

If the only sheetmetal damage is the right front fender, don't consider replacing any other components. They will never be as good as factory, even if OEM. The manufacturers process of galvanizing, primers and preps, base coats and clear top coats most all with catalized hardners is almost impossible to duplicate. I found out after the fact that even the best, most exotic, most expensive, shops held in the highest regard do a pretty **** poor job compared to the factory. They get the look, match the stipple, match the metallic and the shade. But where they fail is the details. Door and panel gap matches, door and hood closure, window up and down friction and wind and water seal. Also disassembly and reassembly without compromising the hardware and fasteners and leaving out missing plastic one time use rivets and hole plugs. Even the very best shops use labor that is cheap for disassembly, sanding and prep and all the grunt work. I was horiffied with what I've seen from a shop that Porsche, Ferrari and MB recommend for their best customers. I deal with custom painters and the like often as I've been building custom bikes for my livelihood since the '70s.

I'd also recommend repairing the existing front fender rather than replacement based on what I've seen in the pic. Often, one panel relpaced will show signs of being different, years later, as well as other issues that arise. Just my opinions, others will vary.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by Macster

Just the damaged panels need to be replaced. Undamaged but adjacent panels only need paint prep and paint blending to match.

Arctic silver has no color in the paint. The color comes from the size of the metal particles, their shape, type and orientation. Size, shape and type all taken care of by paint maker. Acceptable paints and paint systems: Standox, Spies-Hecker and Glasurit.

The orientation under no little control by the painter. Factors that affect the orientation of the metal particles: Paint gun air pressure, paint room humidity and temperature, distance the gun held from painted surface, speed the gun is moved along painted surface, etc.

But an experienced painter, one experienced in applying these types of paint, can do a job that makes the new panels and the adjacents ones that receive some blending paint indistinquishable from factory painted panels.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Originally Posted by Tim Wasmer

Silly thought. But couldn't a good dent repair guy massage that out? I have seen them take out some nasty dents.

Originally Posted by Divot

Thanks, Macster.

You always give great insights.

He did say it was a blending on the other panels to make it indistinguishable. These guys are the top guys in the area, when I dropped mine there was a 997 Turbo, some Ferarris and Lambos, a Ford GT, etc. You should see their garage. My one comfort is knowing they will do everything right, because I have seen samples of the work they do. It's why I had to wait 2 weeks.

Originally Posted by dresler

yeah, what about paintless dent removal? (the process, I know it will have to be re-painted).

Originally Posted by Divot

Well, my guy says I need drivers panel, bumper, hood, and passenger panel (so it all matches/repair some rock chips.) At least I was going to do the bumper before the damage.

I think I will be getting a 3M clear bra as well. So much for the hookers and blow.

Originally Posted by 4Scargo

Hey Divot, I think I got a silver Mk 1 driver's side fender, too. I rebuilt a Mk 2 and ordered (Xenon's Plus) a fender and they sent the wrong one...the Mk 1. Their policy is that after 30 days they don't take returns. It was sitting out back of my body shop. Should be still there......if you want, PM me and pay the shipping