90k service is coming up, should I do it myself?
03-30-2010, 09:48 AM
#16
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Good idea! The only thing is that the whole reason I'm doing this now is that the wife and kid are heading to Grandma's house for the week. So I'm dropping them off (in Pennsylvania!) this weekend and I'll work on my car every night when home from work. So the timeline will be a bit weird since it won't be in one sitting but in any case I'll keep track anyway.
There are regular maintenance intervals that I was reading about in the manual last night. So even after 90k there are still milestones.
Ah! See you learn something new everyday. So I don't have to worry about spark plug tubes at all? Cool!
I'm going to wait on the brake flush as I just did one about six months ago, same with the oil change as I'll do that right before the warmer weather hits us.
But with these coils no one replaces them just for preventive measures?
There are regular maintenance intervals that I was reading about in the manual last night. So even after 90k there are still milestones.
inspect coils for cracks, replaced cracked ones
you dont have spart plug tubs like the 3.4
If you plan on doing some other items check the AOS for leaks (BTW there is a new one in the f/s section for $70 !!) I would pull the tensioners and check for wear, replace o-rings, clean the radiators, do a brake flush.... hmmm, thinking of more later
you dont have spart plug tubs like the 3.4
If you plan on doing some other items check the AOS for leaks (BTW there is a new one in the f/s section for $70 !!) I would pull the tensioners and check for wear, replace o-rings, clean the radiators, do a brake flush.... hmmm, thinking of more later
I'm going to wait on the brake flush as I just did one about six months ago, same with the oil change as I'll do that right before the warmer weather hits us.
But with these coils no one replaces them just for preventive measures?
03-30-2010, 10:53 AM
#17
Race Director
Past threads indicate 2 options. 1-replace all coil packs if one or more are deemed bad/cracked.2- only replace the coil packs that are bad. Guess it's up to you.
03-30-2010, 11:06 AM
#18
Parts Specialist
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I would not replace unless bad.....
and if one goes bad, it will throw CEL, easy to know its bad then....replacing the "cracked ones" is preventative maintenance
and if one goes bad, it will throw CEL, easy to know its bad then....replacing the "cracked ones" is preventative maintenance
03-30-2010, 12:24 PM
#19
Drifting
A bit of advice for shade tree mechanics.
Use the correct size sockets and wrenches of good quality that fit the nut and bolt flats well. Hold the tool at the proper angle so it contacts the fastener squarely. The same goes for torx and socket head fasteners. Hold the tool so that if the fastener suddenly breaks loose, your knuckles or fingers will not sustain injury. Safety glasses are your friend. Brutal force often destroys fasteners and fingers. If confused, ask somone more familiar with the job, guessing usually leads to disaster.
Upon assembly, when tightening a fastener, tighter is usually not better. If uncertain as to how tight is good, get a torque wrench. Most things like to be tightened sequentially, aligning parts carefully before final torque is achieved. Check and recheck your work. After work is completed, start vehicle, look for leaks or unusual sounds. Wash up and smile.
Use the correct size sockets and wrenches of good quality that fit the nut and bolt flats well. Hold the tool at the proper angle so it contacts the fastener squarely. The same goes for torx and socket head fasteners. Hold the tool so that if the fastener suddenly breaks loose, your knuckles or fingers will not sustain injury. Safety glasses are your friend. Brutal force often destroys fasteners and fingers. If confused, ask somone more familiar with the job, guessing usually leads to disaster.
Upon assembly, when tightening a fastener, tighter is usually not better. If uncertain as to how tight is good, get a torque wrench. Most things like to be tightened sequentially, aligning parts carefully before final torque is achieved. Check and recheck your work. After work is completed, start vehicle, look for leaks or unusual sounds. Wash up and smile.
03-30-2010, 09:58 PM
#20
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Got under the car and removed the heat shields to take a look at the coils. They looked good!
But one of them, the passenger side closer to the front of the car, had a bit of oil on it. I'll have to clean it up when I do the plugs and figure out where that oil is coming from. It's not much as I don't have any dripping on my garage floor but compared to the others (which looked very clean) this one had a bit of residue on it.
So no coils this time....
But I can absolutely see how these plugs are going to be tough to get to. I didn't even lift the car to remove the shields and I had to snake my hands between the exhaust and the engine. So I think I'll have to remove the exhaust to get access without bending my forearm in two places.
But one of them, the passenger side closer to the front of the car, had a bit of oil on it. I'll have to clean it up when I do the plugs and figure out where that oil is coming from. It's not much as I don't have any dripping on my garage floor but compared to the others (which looked very clean) this one had a bit of residue on it.
So no coils this time....
But I can absolutely see how these plugs are going to be tough to get to. I didn't even lift the car to remove the shields and I had to snake my hands between the exhaust and the engine. So I think I'll have to remove the exhaust to get access without bending my forearm in two places.
