Shark Attack

WHAT A NIGHTMARE due to my own doing..

I had a leaking hose The intake hose on the water pump that goes up to the over flow.

Well first of all they changed the hose, this caused me to have to modify a metal line that runs on the bottom on the engine. Had to heat it and bend it in order to get the new hose to fit. Then I also had to rotate some exhaust clamps out of the way... Then I was tired, so I screwed the overflow cap on cross thread, then took the car for a test drive.. You can only imagin how that ended up. Basically pissed away 130$ in coolant....

But anyway it is back together and no leaks.


First short drive impression. The thermostate makes it run cooler. Not by much but it does. I am taking it 250 miles tomorrow I will report more than. I drove it about 35-40 miles tonight. It gauge stayed on 180 mark on the high side on the mark, But never left the mark. Before i did the mod, I ran about 3/16 of an inch above the 180 mark.

So It seems to have made a differance.

Im going to bed.

Good night.

Barn996

Report back after your 250 mile ride. Too bad about encountering those obstacles, they seem to follow me on many DIYs.

Shark Attack

It just sucks not having a knowlegable suppliers like in the 928 world....

If that hose would have changed on the 928, Geanie @ 928 gt would have told me I should buy the other line too.... and then she woudl have told me while I was at it, I should really have done 2 other hoses I didnt do.......

Shark Attack

Yep, runs just like I said in the OP, WHEN AT SPEED the car runs cooler. When sitting in the line at Starbucks, it heats up to where it did before while sitting in traffic.

Now currently I am running 90% water becasue of my issues in the OP. This will be fixed tonight. Ill report back if this makes any change.

ivangene

IMO the only way around higher temps is more airflow, or more coolant

(well maybe less power would work too)

2K7TTMIA

+1, I was considering Redline Water Wetter, but it would be minimal improvement at best.. either a larger fan, larger coolant reservoir, better airflow or it's within a few degrees of normal operating temp....

Shark Attack

At speed = more airflow

People were saying that it was going to have 0 effect. But it has infact had an effect. It allows the car to run cooler if more airflow is available. Where with the stock Thermo, it would never run below 3/16 above 180

15psi

Kyle-
Are you familar with the unique procedure to refill the coolant?
http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush...nt_System.html
It is recommended that you use a 'Airlift by UView' to eliminate all the air pockets.
I picked one up cheap on ebay- they also make a plastic version that is less expensive than brass.
Fills the system in about a minute. Amazing.
JimB

Edgy01

How do you know what your coolant temperature is? What range has it been before the changeover? Now?

Shark Attack

It is all stated in the first post. I dont really go by actual temp. I go more by gauaging reading before and after....

So the temp dropped by 3/16 of an inch


No, Thanks I will check it out. Filling it sucked.

Cefalu

I agree that when you have sufficient airflow from tha car moving the temp would drop vs. the stock thermostat. Easy to understand. But the problem I am having is when you are stuck in traffic or not moving. Then the bottleneck becomes the fans. The problem is the fans don't come on until the temps get pretty high, 206 deg F for low speed, 216 deg F for hi speed. Both thermostats are wide open long before the fans kick in.

I think that the low temp thermostat combined with a lower kick in temp for the fans would be the answer and actually make the car run cooler.

Is there any way to lower the temp the fans kick in?

15psi

I changed the HVAC screen to show the engine temp digitally for the past few weeks. I then monitored the gage vs the digital output. The gage appears to be an approximation at best.

I also was surprised how long it takes for the coolant to hit 90C. Once it warmed up, the temps stayed between 90-92C. I will monitor again once summer temps return.

15psi

I would think 3rd radiator and a manual over-ride fan switch would make a difference.

ivangene

FWIW you can run a jumper on the fans so when they kick in at low speed, they run at high in my case (for noise only) I jumped only one fan... so i had one on low, one on high... moved the air well and well less noisy than both on high - kept my temps lower in traffic... net cost $0.03 worth of wire, time spent 7 minutes

Shark Attack

I was thinking about this today because I have this exact same issue. I knew the new stat was not going to help with the in-traffic problem. I didnt expect it to help here. I thought about running the fans. But the car already sounds like it is going to lift off. It sounds like a freaking robot. Plus pre-mature failure of the fan motors. If I had a switch where I could control them I woudl like that. hmmm I will have to look in to this....

thx