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I have a comment on aluminum hats on the 996 GT3, several of my pals switched from Cup rotors to floating rotors with aluminum hats. They espoused the "cheaper because I change only the rotors" argument. Imagine their chagrin when they discovered that the bolt holes in the aluminum hats had become enlarged (ovalized in fact) and the hats AND the rotors needed to be replaced. Those were Brembos as I recall, so the Girodiscs may be superior. Like Dell, I found that Cup brake ducts, and RS 29 pads in front with RS 19 pads in the rear gave me 40 or so days on my front rotors and about 70 on the rear. The harder rear pads improved brake balance too which on the 996 GT3 was way too biased towards the front.
I'm still trying to understand the "why" of these at $2200 (4 times the cost of stock).
Heck, the PFC 2-piece setup is cheaper than Giro.
Sorry, but I am not understanding the rationale for buying these. The braking system on these cars is phenomenal. And if you are boiling SRF (which I highly doubt) then there is something else at play. The proper brake cooling (cup ducts not the GT3 ducts and maybe even some ducting for additional airflow) and you will be just fine. And at Only $300 for a complete set of front replacements, you will need to go through a lot of rotors to get a descent ROI.
In VERY HARD braking situations I've used many different rotors, pads, fluid, etc in all the various 996 variants and this one doesn't make sense to me.
Just my $.02
Here was my rationale...They could last up to twice as long, there's half your money back...they don't have holes so no cracking (even though I don't track)...a little less unsprung weight...and they look nice. That being said I did only replace the fronts w/ Girodisc because of the high cost vs OEM. If it turns out that the aluminum hats don't last and aren't covered by warranty, then I would go back to OEM.
Here was my rationale...They could last up to twice as long, there's half your money back...they don't have holes so no cracking (even though I don't track)...a little less unsprung weight...and they look nice. That being said I did only replace the fronts w/ Girodisc because of the high cost vs OEM. If it turns out that the aluminum hats don't last and aren't covered by warranty, then I would go back to OEM.
I understand what you guys are saying but I was not happy with the stock fronts.
'LVDell', I'm not boiling the SRF fluid, this is a preventative measure together with the added weight and size benefits. If you factor in the cost of cup ducts ($270 ish) and new OEM rotors twice or even 3 times as fast the price comparison is not too bad. Plus you only have to replace the disc not the hat next time. I know it's still more money but then that covers the additional benefits (IMHO).
I also looked at the PFC (almost ordered them but that's another story) and they are almost the same money (as you have to use PFC pads too), plus they are HEAVIER than stock (9.2kg vs 9kg OEM vs 7.8kg Giro) with no size benefit, what's the point????
I even understand that without running Toyos or Cups the braking is only as good as the rubber/road contact.
This is an expirement and one that I'm very happy with. It's not for everyone and the initial price is high but for what I wanted I figured it was justified, especially compared to the alternatives.
Craig, got a question. When I eventually make the step to GT3 can I use my existing bell/hat and fit larger rotors, effectively meaning I don't have to buy a full new set?
Did you subtract out the area lost to the holes "drilled" in the stock rotors?
LVDell "Not missing that at all. This is why I asked for the inner opening sizes. We can figure this out very easily. Calculate the area of the ENTIRE rotor for both stock and Giro (we know this already) and SUBTRACT the area of the non rotor area. This will give us not only the exact swept rotor surface but the difference between the two.
First set of numbers (before getting the center section measured to subtract out):
Giro Area
F (140.53 sq in)
R (128.61 sq in)
Stock
F (122.7 sq in)
R (109.3 sq in)
Need the measurement (diameter) of the inner section to finish up
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