I've had my '00 c2 for about 2 years or so.. runs perfectly, starts every time etc, etc..

Recently the radio stopped working, a coupe days ago I went to check the fuses, pulled a couple that were linked with the sound system... they looked ok so I put 'em back. (finally figured out there is a fuse on the back of the radio)

But now the car won't start? WTF?

Lights come on, but the starter just dosen't even turn over. Nada..

Checked the starter fuse, just fine. I'm pushing the clutch all the way in..

Any ideas guys??

 

try the simple things first....

push the clutch all the way in (or put the car in N then Park again)
retrace your footsteps while fuse replacing - check that you didnt miss something
disconnect the battery and re-boot the car

 

This just happened to me. I have a '01 C4 tiptronic but sounds like the same thing. It was like 10 days after I had the 75k service done and a fuse popped in the radio, had to replace it. I'd turn the key, dash lights up, climate control kicks on, windows work and I got a clicking noise when I turned the key. Would have bet anything on starter/ignition but it turned out to be the battery. Its the car's way of saying "this is all I can do."

 

I've only had the car for a couple of months and have no idea how old the battery is. My guys checked it over to try to find a drain and couldn't find it. It did happen after the first cold snap so that might have done it in, really don't know.

 

I would do the following:
1) Check the battery
2) Jump the clutch switch by shorting the two wires that connect to the switch
3) Ignition switch (not sure how to check it though)

Good luck!

 

What might of happened. While trying to diagnose your problem you spent an extra amount of time with the key in and the engine not running. Causes battery drain right. Then if you have a weak cell (that would most of the times show up in a load test) the lower voltage wont get you started before the weakness left you flat on your feet. A battery will show 12 volts or such but if there is a weak cell it really isn't going to have everything good for transmist the amperage require for cranking the 12 volts out and start. Look at it as each cell is 2 volts and they are all hooked in series making 12 volts. During cranking one weak cell = 10 volts and loss of 1/6th the amps. Two weak cells would be twice twice those losses.

First and most important thing to do when installing a battery is to mark the installation date and make sure the life cycle of the battery is visible. Normally a 48, 36, and other multiples of 12 representing the amount of months is designated on the battery. If you can paint pen in an easy to se spot the expiration time on the battery you would be better off. Battery plates are coated and the marked life cycle is a calculated amount of time for the battery acid to burn through the coatings on the plates. It's a pretty close number. There's no bringing back the battery after that. That said if a battery is half a year or so away from the expiration date I'd just junk it. You don't have to but I would. When I want the car a dead battery isn't a game I like.

There's a dirty trick alternators can play on you. When the diode stack in an alternator is getting flaky it might be playing a game of some times putting out 12v AC not DC. If your multimeter is digital you might be able to catch it by seeing the voltage alternating back and forth - to + and back again. Had a sears auto shop miss that a couple times with their fancy battery diagnostic machine one time running me around breaking down all over the place with one car. So don't depend on shops being right on the money since flacky diode stacks before they go out all the way might not show the alternator is bad when the car is being tested.

So my cure from now on? Battery is history if near expiration and watch for alternating current on the multimeter. Diode stacks are cheap and easy to replace. Maybe $5-$20 for a diode stack verses a new alternator? Some heavy construction equipment shops have alternator rebuild shops which I like since one place I have used can boost ampreage rewinding the alternator. Good thing if you run ham radio or big stereo amp.

I hope my ramblings help you in the future. Aloha! Surfs Up!

 

It probably just heard a Viper rumble by and is skeered.......

 

Battery is brand new.. literally only a month old. Plenty of power... it's not even trying to turn over at all.

Couple of you recommended "re-booting" the car. I disconnected the battery cable for a couple minutes then re-connected. Is there a certain amount I've time I'm supposed to wait??

Also, someone mentioned the clutch sensor.. how can you check this?

And as far as retracing my steps with the fuses, I did that this morning. Checked everything twice, fuses are good, and in the correct spots. I guess I'll go back and replace them all tommorow just to be sure.

This is driving me crazy....

 

Look along the top of your clutch pedal and find this sucker

Remove the two wires attached to the switch, connect the two wires together and try to start the car. If the car starts, it's the switch acting up.

 

Interestingly, something very similar to this just happened to my 02 996TT.
I push-started it today and drove it to my mechanic. He'll be looking at it Monday. I tested the battery, it was fine. Tried to bypass the clutch sensor, no luck. I even tried to start it with one of those remote starters/chargers, nothing!
We'll see.

 

I could be your ignition switch.

Let us know what how you get this resolved.

 

at this point I am with Tim - ignition switch is suspect, easy to replace and cheap...........

 

I may have to go down that road, just VERY suspect that it happened as I was messing with the fuses.

 

agreed, but they fail and without warning.. they are a common problem........easy not to look there since it happened when you were doing "something else" but the facts are.... that is a suspect part for those symptoms

 

Jury is in: ignition switch failure.
Cause: burnt solenoid in starter.
Both will be replaced.
Thanks!