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Spark plug question

Old 10-14-2009, 05:58 PM
  #31  
pat056
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Which takes longer, dropping the exhaust cans or fighting the plugs? As I remember, my problem was the extension wanted to let go of the socket, leaving me with the socket attached to the tightened spark plug. That was a real pain.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
Old 10-14-2009, 06:26 PM
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Marlon
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Originally Posted by pat056
Which takes longer, dropping the exhaust cans or fighting the plugs? As I remember, my problem was the extension wanted to let go of the socket, leaving me with the socket attached to the tightened spark plug. That was a real pain.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
Just use one wrap of duct tape to hold the socket and extension together. You can use the duct tape on all your angle joints and sockets to help keep it all together. Cheap and easy - it's also very flexible for the angles. That's the only way I could have changed all twelve of my 993 plugs before. A magnet on an extension stick is helpful too. Someone already mentioned the 'magnetic plug socket', but I used a very lightly applied single wrap of duct tape around the open plug socket end and around the plug base to ensure the plug did not fall off the socket when sliding into place - the 993 has very 'deep' heads.
Old 10-14-2009, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pat056
Which takes longer, dropping the exhaust cans or fighting the plugs? As I remember, my problem was the extension wanted to let go of the socket, leaving me with the socket attached to the tightened spark plug. That was a real pain.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
Each side of the engine (6 speed) takes 30 minutes with only removing the heat shields. Jack the side of the car up and get to work.
Old 10-15-2009, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
Each side of the engine (6 speed) takes 30 minutes with only removing the heat shields. Jack the side of the car up and get to work.
Do you recommend jacking one side up, changing 3 plugs, then doing the other side the same way? Or is it easier to jack the rear of the car up and remove both wheels first?

Also, is it better to disconnect the coil wires before removing the boots from the old plugs? Not sure it mentions that in the Renntech article.
Old 10-15-2009, 08:12 AM
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I jack 1 side at a time, remove heat sheilds, then coil connectors, then coils, then plugs.
Old 10-15-2009, 09:28 AM
  #36  
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Or like I did, use low profile ramps and back the car up on them. I then, removed the exhaust cans and you a lot of access to the coil packs. No tire removal needed.

Whatever floats yer boat!
Old 10-15-2009, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
I jack 1 side at a time, remove heat sheilds, then coil connectors, then coils, then plugs.
I like the sound of this method. Do you place only 1 jack stand on one rear jack point (after jacking up the rear), or what?
Old 10-15-2009, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyK
I like the sound of this method. Do you place only 1 jack stand on one rear jack point (after jacking up the rear), or what?
My jack has a positive (bar) lock. I jack it up on the side, lock it and go to work.
Old 10-15-2009, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
My jack has a positive (bar) lock. I jack it up on the side, lock it and go to work.
Ah. My jack is a Craftsman aluminum POS that I wouldn't trust to support the engine/rear for hours while I struggle with the plugs. Could I lift by the rear cross member, place only one jack stand, then lower, resulting in your one side approach?
Old 10-15-2009, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyK
Ah. My jack is a Craftsman aluminum POS that I wouldn't trust to support the engine/rear for hours while I struggle with the plugs. Could I lift by the rear cross member, place only one jack stand, then lower, resulting in your one side approach?

That would work fine and you can even keep the jack under the cross member for extra piece of mind. You have to get on your back anyway, so you just need enough room to move your arms around. My rear tire is maybe 6 inches off the ground and have enough room.
Old 10-15-2009, 10:25 AM
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I have to get on my back? I thought sitting would be fine after raising the rear and taking off the wheel, since the plugs are at mid-wheel level, right?
Old 10-15-2009, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyK
I have to get on my back? I thought sitting would be fine after raising the rear and taking off the wheel, since the plugs are at mid-wheel level, right?
Sweet jesus just do it already!

It is much easier to change the plugs if you dropped the exhaust.
What you haven't heard is that the exhaust bolts might not come out all that easy. Some of the bolts may snap on the way out. If they snap in the block them you have to drill them out. Then the time you saved removing the exhaust first magically disappears.

If you leave the exhaust on (the way I did mine) you will definately be on your back praying to the gods to help you get the rear most plugs out.
Laying on your back and reaching your arm up through the area inbetween the head and the exhaust tubes with extensions and swivels. DOn't even think of doing this when the car is even slightly warm. You will be burned.

My forearms are the size of most folks thighs so i did not get out of this job unscathed.
Old 10-15-2009, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyK
I have to get on my back? I thought sitting would be fine after raising the rear and taking off the wheel, since the plugs are at mid-wheel level, right?
I had the advantage of a lift but the wheels were not in the way.

I was thinking that a tool like the sidewinder ( http://www.sidewinderproducts.com/_wsn/page3.html ) might be handy when removing some of the plug locations (towards the rear) that are covered by the exhaust manifold pipes. There is also this design - however I know of no one who has used one, but it looks interesting for perhaps lower torque uses, http://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Gearle...161881&sr=11-1.

There is also the Stanley version: http://www.stanleytools.com/default....otator+Ratchet

I'm sure Snap On and MAC have something that would work as well.
Old 10-15-2009, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by peavynation
What's this magnetic socket I keep hearing about? I assume Suncoast or Pelican has it?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...33%2F%31%36%22
Old 10-15-2009, 02:57 PM
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To anyone who has done the plugs and spent a whole afternoon cursing, would it have been worth the $240 (2 hours labor) to have a mechanic do it?

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