Spark plug question
#31
Rennlist Member
Which takes longer, dropping the exhaust cans or fighting the plugs? As I remember, my problem was the extension wanted to let go of the socket, leaving me with the socket attached to the tightened spark plug. That was a real pain.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
#32
Drifting
Which takes longer, dropping the exhaust cans or fighting the plugs? As I remember, my problem was the extension wanted to let go of the socket, leaving me with the socket attached to the tightened spark plug. That was a real pain.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
#33
Race Car
Which takes longer, dropping the exhaust cans or fighting the plugs? As I remember, my problem was the extension wanted to let go of the socket, leaving me with the socket attached to the tightened spark plug. That was a real pain.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
Once all the skin was off my elbows and knuckles, the physical pain wasn't that bad.
#34
Addict
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Thread Starter
Also, is it better to disconnect the coil wires before removing the boots from the old plugs? Not sure it mentions that in the Renntech article.
#36
Race Car
Or like I did, use low profile ramps and back the car up on them. I then, removed the exhaust cans and you a lot of access to the coil packs. No tire removal needed.
Whatever floats yer boat!
Whatever floats yer boat!
#37
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#38
Race Car
#39
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Ah. My jack is a Craftsman aluminum POS that I wouldn't trust to support the engine/rear for hours while I struggle with the plugs. Could I lift by the rear cross member, place only one jack stand, then lower, resulting in your one side approach?
#40
Race Car
That would work fine and you can even keep the jack under the cross member for extra piece of mind. You have to get on your back anyway, so you just need enough room to move your arms around. My rear tire is maybe 6 inches off the ground and have enough room.
#41
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I have to get on my back? I thought sitting would be fine after raising the rear and taking off the wheel, since the plugs are at mid-wheel level, right?
#42
Three Wheelin'
It is much easier to change the plugs if you dropped the exhaust.
What you haven't heard is that the exhaust bolts might not come out all that easy. Some of the bolts may snap on the way out. If they snap in the block them you have to drill them out. Then the time you saved removing the exhaust first magically disappears.
If you leave the exhaust on (the way I did mine) you will definately be on your back praying to the gods to help you get the rear most plugs out.
Laying on your back and reaching your arm up through the area inbetween the head and the exhaust tubes with extensions and swivels. DOn't even think of doing this when the car is even slightly warm. You will be burned.
My forearms are the size of most folks thighs so i did not get out of this job unscathed.
#43
Drifting
I was thinking that a tool like the sidewinder ( http://www.sidewinderproducts.com/_wsn/page3.html ) might be handy when removing some of the plug locations (towards the rear) that are covered by the exhaust manifold pipes. There is also this design - however I know of no one who has used one, but it looks interesting for perhaps lower torque uses, http://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Gearle...161881&sr=11-1.
There is also the Stanley version: http://www.stanleytools.com/default....otator+Ratchet
I'm sure Snap On and MAC have something that would work as well.
#45
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To anyone who has done the plugs and spent a whole afternoon cursing, would it have been worth the $240 (2 hours labor) to have a mechanic do it?