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The Official "Things you didnt know about your 996" thread

 
Old 10-08-2009, 03:08 PM
  #31  
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Put LED taillight and brake light bulbs in and your dash will flash ABS/PSM faults. Cool!
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by himself View Post
2 biggest things I learned:
1) If you got a Porsche so girls would look at you, sorry. It's almost all guys staring.
2) If you wait long enough, something will invariably rattle.

-td

+1 on both counts.
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by himself View Post
1) If you got a Porsche so girls would look at you, sorry. It's almost all guys
and not a guy around either to distract her! Next myth.
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:24 PM
  #34  
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She can look all she wants, but that one's a bit light in the loafers.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:05 PM
  #35  
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Don't kid yourself....she's being PAID to look.


(the caption is, "Do I look fat?")
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by chago996 View Post
You can adjust the intensity of the convenient lights that stay on at night inside the cabin. MkI '01 and beyond. BTW, if you have the silver painted center console, the little convenient light above (behind rear view mirror) will make it glow at night. Its pretty cool looking.
There's also LED "convenience" amber lights at the very front/tip of each armrest/door "grab".
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:17 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 4Scargo View Post
Put LED taillight and brake light bulbs in and your dash will flash ABS/PSM faults. Cool!
And your cruise control will be inop.

To solve this problem I installed a 50 watt halogen bulb in the stop light circuit using the NC contacts of a 12 volt relay. Without stop lights on the bulbs represents a LOW resistance load but with 12 volts applied to the stop light LEDS the relay picks up and removes the bulb from the circuit.

CC uses stop light applied voltage as a signal to turn off automatically. With LEDs installed, no bulb resistive load, the stop light voltage will "float" up to as much as 2 volts which is enough to make the CC inop.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:22 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Barn996 View Post
Even though you may turn off your AC(manually), when you restart your 996, the AC will return to the AC setting you had on prior to shutting it off.
Just because you had the RMS seal replaced (again),doesen't seem to prevent the same problem from occuring over, and over again...
That's one of the reasons why I had a toggle switch installed inside the center console glove box that I can use to open the A/C compressor clutch...off means OFF.

I do not turn the switch on unless I need cooling or initial cabin cooldown. It remains OFF throughout the non-cooling need season.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:27 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by deckman View Post
Here's a fun fact: If you get the condensation on the window with AC on, press the second button from the top on the right side of the climate control unit. It's the one with the oval icon that represents the center vent. It will stop the condensation and you won't have to use your wipers. Works for me anyway.
Ill have to try your method the next time the need arises.But mostly whenever I get into the car and I have the A/C enabled I depress the upper PB in the three group set that manually controls the airflow outlet direction to first open the defrost/defog/demist outlet and then depress it again to close it.

That action apparently puts only that particular fucntion under manual control while all others remain under automatic control.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:37 PM
  #40  
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If you twist the clock adjustment **** (the one upper right of speedoneter) for 5 seconds the speedometer converts to Km.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Torontoworker View Post
Next myth.
I guess I should have clarified, gold diggers will also look. lol.

-td
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:39 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jumper5836 View Post
Wheel installation guide pin in the tool set. Helps prevent hitting the calipers and just make it easier to put on the wheel.

Ignition Switch on the left side, came from when drivers had to run to the car and start up the car. This allowed them to use 1 hand to for the ignition and the other to put the car in gear. Actually it was so the driver, RACE driver, could start, pre-start, the engine while climbing, "clambering" into the driver's seat.

Jump start the car from the rear or front compartment. Connectors are in the engine compartment battery posts in the front.

There are power connectors in drivers side fuse box. Connect power to this and then you can pop the trunk lid to get at the dead battery. Only if you also turn the ignition on, on mine anyway

If you have power seat with memory, you can set the passenger side mirror to tilt down when your put it in reverse by saving your seat memory while gear is in reverse. I use/reserve the highest memory PB for this function.

Oops, my bad..!!(***)


Disconnecting the battery clears any codes and forces engine to recalibrate air/gas mixture.No need/purpose for this unless you have changed the MAF/IAT module or one of the 2 A/F mixture controlling oxygen sensors.

Steering wheel lock. With ignition key in gently tug the wheel left or right to lock the steering wheel in position. What..!! I don't think so, did you mean to say "with ignition key OUT..??".

To turn off AC completely, keep lowering the fan level until it turns off. Or use the provided PB to simply switch off the snowflake icon.

To lock seat belt into position, move seat back all the way, then tighten up the seat belt, give it a quick snap once and it should lock. Move seat back into driving position. This keeps you nice and snug for driving and the track.
*** I reserve the use of the "highest" seat memory PB to increase, slightly increase, the downward angle of both outside mirrors at night. Makes up for not having the self-dimming driver side outside mirror.

...

Last edited by wwest; 10-08-2009 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:05 PM
  #43  
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Put your ignition key into the door lock, turn it and hold it, and the windows will open. If you turn it the other way, it will close the windows and sunroof.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:38 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by deckman View Post
Here's a fun fact: If you get the condensation on the window with AC on, press the second button from the top on the right side of the climate control unit. It's the one with the oval icon that represents the center vent. It will stop the condensation and you won't have to use your wipers. Works for me anyway.
Oh, I see, at least I think so. Your proceedure would never allow the system to automatically switch to footwell and/or footwell and dash combined mode. That could get pretty discomforting if any level of cabin heating were required. If heating is the "target" then footwell ONLY would be the most desireable from a comfort standpoint.

On the other hand if a serious level of cabin heating is required then footwell AND defrost/defog/demist airflow would be desireable. In COLD weather the windshield interior surface should ALWAYS be continuously warmed.

Maybe I should revise my modification so that when the compressor is enabled the defrost/defog/demist airflow outlets are ALWAYS forced closed.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:56 PM
  #45  
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The early Litronics, HID headlights, were not truly bi-xenon in the modern sense. Up until at least '02 the 996's projector HID assembly would automatically tilt upward in high beam mode but the shading apperture within the projector assembly used to provide the sharp upper pattern beam cutoff remained in place.

Newer bi-xenon HID projector low beam assemblies not only shift the beam pattern upwards in high beam mode but also use a small 12 volt solenoid to move/flip the shading apperture totally out of the HID beam path at the same time. Negating, possibly, the need for a halogen high beam "fill-in" bulb entirely.
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