How To Jack up a P-car
#31
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I found a set close to what Whitey has, but they're $90 each. Here is a set from OTC racing (solid brand), aluminum, and look like they're take the center bold mod pretty well. Less then $80 a pair. I just don't like the area of the footprint; I'd like it a bit bigger, and not round. Hard to see how it compares area-wise.
#32
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Porsche's are tough to lift and the "real ones" can be lifted by the motor (because they are tough)
![](http://www.bored.com/billboards/images/porsche_outdoor.jpg)
but if you try this with a water cooled one the water weight will cause the car to become unstable and result in an unsatisfactory lift as shown
![](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FoXyvaPSnVk/SFr5W425MpI/AAAAAAAAu_I/1uDuZDTvnak/s400/Porsche_Crash-Boxster.jpg)
This has been discussed as one of the reasons some people prefer the air cooled motors over the water cooled. Personally I think if you bleed the air out of the water the car will stabilize and a propper "lift" will be achieved
![](http://www.bored.com/billboards/images/porsche_outdoor.jpg)
but if you try this with a water cooled one the water weight will cause the car to become unstable and result in an unsatisfactory lift as shown
![](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FoXyvaPSnVk/SFr5W425MpI/AAAAAAAAu_I/1uDuZDTvnak/s400/Porsche_Crash-Boxster.jpg)
This has been discussed as one of the reasons some people prefer the air cooled motors over the water cooled. Personally I think if you bleed the air out of the water the car will stabilize and a propper "lift" will be achieved
#33
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can anyone post a picture of the 'cross member' where it is safe to jack up the 996 ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I have been reading topics for the past 20 minutes and could not find a proper picture. Seems a lot of people jack up using the engine...
I'd prefer avoiding that.
Anyways any pictures of your rear jack up point would be appreciated
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I have been reading topics for the past 20 minutes and could not find a proper picture. Seems a lot of people jack up using the engine...
I'd prefer avoiding that.
Anyways any pictures of your rear jack up point would be appreciated
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#34
Drifting
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If anyone saw the thickness of the motor case casting, they would certainly NOT jack up the car using it. Stressing the case, motor and trans mounts beyond their design parameters is not a good idea. Nor risking punching thru the motor. The heavy looking lug on the motor case is most likely a point for jacking the motor only during removal.
The manual states only the 4 jacking points should be used. I always use a hockey puck between the point and my jack. When Jacked I place jack stands under the front points and on and area near the outboard end of the cross members. I use small squares of wafer board between the jack stands and the car so as not to compromise the paint on the jacking points or scar the aluminum on the subframe which could lead to stress cracking.
The manual states only the 4 jacking points should be used. I always use a hockey puck between the point and my jack. When Jacked I place jack stands under the front points and on and area near the outboard end of the cross members. I use small squares of wafer board between the jack stands and the car so as not to compromise the paint on the jacking points or scar the aluminum on the subframe which could lead to stress cracking.
#35
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UGG
need we say this any more times -
DO NOT JACK BY THE MOTOR !
reasons are more than just the fact that you have a very heavy item supported on small points on a thin cast aluminum part that sost a lot of money and if you punch a jack thru the motor you are really gonna be pissed and poor - the motor mounts also cost about $175 ea and are designed to keep the motor from falling out the bottom - in other words when you lift with the motor the mount is what you are actually using to lift the car and it can fail - this is the main reason NOT to lift by the motor - I know some people have done it, but its stupid -
right where the engine and tranny mate there is a nice big beam to lift by - use that
need we say this any more times -
DO NOT JACK BY THE MOTOR !
reasons are more than just the fact that you have a very heavy item supported on small points on a thin cast aluminum part that sost a lot of money and if you punch a jack thru the motor you are really gonna be pissed and poor - the motor mounts also cost about $175 ea and are designed to keep the motor from falling out the bottom - in other words when you lift with the motor the mount is what you are actually using to lift the car and it can fail - this is the main reason NOT to lift by the motor - I know some people have done it, but its stupid -
right where the engine and tranny mate there is a nice big beam to lift by - use that
Last edited by ivangene; 11-07-2010 at 11:51 AM.
#36
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Ed, I don't think you're helping with birthday preparations by posting the proper jacking locations for a non air-cooled Porsche. By the way, it was nice to see a recent post of your enhanced black 996 w/ a hint of aliens...did you find the vac. leak yet?
#37
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UGG
need we say this any more times -
DO NOT JACK BY THE MOTOR !
reasons are more than just the fact that you have a very heavy item supported on small points on a thin cast aluminum part that sost a lot of money and if you punch a jack thru the motor you are really gonna be pissed and poor - the motor mounts also cost about $175 ea and are designed to keep the motor from falling out the bottom - in other words when you lift with the motor the mount is what you are actually using to lift the car and it can fail - this is the main reason NOT to lift by the motor - I know some people have done it, but its stupid -
right where the engine and tranny mate there is a nice big beam to lift by - use that
need we say this any more times -
DO NOT JACK BY THE MOTOR !
reasons are more than just the fact that you have a very heavy item supported on small points on a thin cast aluminum part that sost a lot of money and if you punch a jack thru the motor you are really gonna be pissed and poor - the motor mounts also cost about $175 ea and are designed to keep the motor from falling out the bottom - in other words when you lift with the motor the mount is what you are actually using to lift the car and it can fail - this is the main reason NOT to lift by the motor - I know some people have done it, but its stupid -
right where the engine and tranny mate there is a nice big beam to lift by - use that
Rudy
#38
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No but I almost burned up $100 worth of steak typing that in !!
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LMAO!
no time to look at my car (but i managed to get the new motor mounts in :evilgrin) - much to my disapointment and continuation of buying **** I dont need... once I got them out i found out I already had the club sport mounts
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#39
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Here's a pict, arrow is the crossmember. I jacked up my car from the side lift point, start draining the oil, then slowly let the car down over the oil catch pan to make it flat again to get the oil in the corner back out the hole, and get as much oil out as possible. I have to lift it up to start, cause cause there's no room for my fingers to remove the plug between the catch pan and the oil pan with it down.
I can't do this by lifting from the cross member either, since the oil catch pan needs to be where the jack is. Man, I can't wait to get a place that's big enough for a lift. That's going to MY house warming present to myself.
I can't do this by lifting from the cross member either, since the oil catch pan needs to be where the jack is. Man, I can't wait to get a place that's big enough for a lift. That's going to MY house warming present to myself.
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#40
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the thing I was trying to get across is there are many ways to lift and depending on what you are lifting for might require a unique combination (as stated above) but the motor is just not one of your options - I actually used the side lifts most of the time unless I need it up high, then the center crossmember and jackstands under the side jack points.
for oil changes my yard is flat and I have a curb to the street... I just hung the *** over the curb and didnt even use a jack.....talk about quick ! $300 for an oil change - I DONT THINK SO !
for oil changes my yard is flat and I have a curb to the street... I just hung the *** over the curb and didnt even use a jack.....talk about quick ! $300 for an oil change - I DONT THINK SO !
#41
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Curb! That rocks. Well, if I can't find a place with ceilings tall enough for a lift, maybe I'll settle for a little curb action. ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
BTW Ed, I only now saw your "lifting" post from back in Oct. earlier in theis thread. Lol!!
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
BTW Ed, I only now saw your "lifting" post from back in Oct. earlier in theis thread. Lol!!
#43
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