First time texas 996 buyer questions
#1
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I have been wanting a porsche for a while and have recently seen a couple of 1999 911 cab's in the Houston Texas area. Any thing I should look for with this MY?
Can anyone recommend a PPI location in Houston?
Thanks
Jim
Can anyone recommend a PPI location in Houston?
Thanks
Jim
#2
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One sign this crack present is oil in coolant (dark drops of oil floating in coolant tank) or coolant in engine oil. Oil analysis can detect presence of anti-freeze in oil.
A check of spark plugs -- their condition -- can spot a cylinder with a crack that is allowing coolant into combustion chamber. A compression test or even a leak down test can also spot a crack early on.
Trouble is the development of this problem is pretty rapid. Engine goes from no crack to a crack to having a piece of cylinder wall come loose in sometimes just a few days of occasional use. It is rare that the early warning signs show up and are recognized for what they mean.
Double trouble is even if condition detected early a cracked cylinder wall means engine block scrap. At least one UK company (Autofarm) and maybe one USA company (Flat 6 Innovations) can disassemble engine and bore out old cylinder liners and install new ones then reassemble engine. While this appears to be a suitable fix it is expensive. Not quite as expensive as replacing engine though.
Check for signs of major (and shoddy) body/paint work, track use, general lack of care and proper maintenance.
Really checking out a used Porsche no different in many aspects from checking out any used car.
If Houston dealer has no skin in the game -- seller of this car not selling car to help finance new Porsche purchase for instance -- local Houston dealer can do a PPI for you.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#3
Burning Brakes
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3.4l engines (all M96 engines I've been told but it appears the 3.4l based on my info is worse in this regard) can develope a cylinder wall crack (usually middle cyllnder either bank).
One sign this crack present is oil in coolant (dark drops of oil floating in coolant tank) or coolant in engine oil. Oil analysis can detect presence of anti-freeze in oil.
A check of spark plugs -- their condition -- can spot a cylinder with a crack that is allowing coolant into combustion chamber. A compression test or even a leak down test can also spot a crack early on.
Trouble is the development of this problem is pretty rapid. Engine goes from no crack to a crack to having a piece of cylinder wall come loose in sometimes just a few days of occasional use. It is rare that the early warning signs show up and are recognized for what they mean.
Double trouble is even if condition detected early a cracked cylinder wall means engine block scrap. At least one UK company (Autofarm) and maybe one USA company (Flat 6 Innovations) can disassemble engine and bore out old cylinder liners and install new ones then reassemble engine. While this appears to be a suitable fix it is expensive. Not quite as expensive as replacing engine though.
Check for signs of major (and shoddy) body/paint work, track use, general lack of care and proper maintenance.
Really checking out a used Porsche no different in many aspects from checking out any used car.
If Houston dealer has no skin in the game -- seller of this car not selling car to help finance new Porsche purchase for instance -- local Houston dealer can do a PPI for you.
Sincerely,
Macster.
One sign this crack present is oil in coolant (dark drops of oil floating in coolant tank) or coolant in engine oil. Oil analysis can detect presence of anti-freeze in oil.
A check of spark plugs -- their condition -- can spot a cylinder with a crack that is allowing coolant into combustion chamber. A compression test or even a leak down test can also spot a crack early on.
Trouble is the development of this problem is pretty rapid. Engine goes from no crack to a crack to having a piece of cylinder wall come loose in sometimes just a few days of occasional use. It is rare that the early warning signs show up and are recognized for what they mean.
Double trouble is even if condition detected early a cracked cylinder wall means engine block scrap. At least one UK company (Autofarm) and maybe one USA company (Flat 6 Innovations) can disassemble engine and bore out old cylinder liners and install new ones then reassemble engine. While this appears to be a suitable fix it is expensive. Not quite as expensive as replacing engine though.
Check for signs of major (and shoddy) body/paint work, track use, general lack of care and proper maintenance.
Really checking out a used Porsche no different in many aspects from checking out any used car.
If Houston dealer has no skin in the game -- seller of this car not selling car to help finance new Porsche purchase for instance -- local Houston dealer can do a PPI for you.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Good luck with your search, there are pleny of great 996's available. Don't be afraid to drive it, whether on the track or commuting.
#4
The Penguin King
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I've actually had very good experience with the service dept at Porsche of West Houston. Ask to have Hans look over the car. He will do a very thorough job.
#5
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Jim!
Don't get too carried away with the doom and gloom opinions that some have about the 3.4L engines.
There are a great many of us with those engines with high mileage driving around enjoying the cars.
I don't know why Macster points out the 3.4L as the ones to watch out for...I've seen just as many posts for later models with the 3.6L that have had the same problems as the 3.4L and even then it is a very small percentage of the many many 996's on the road.
Do your "due diligence", get a PPI, and if you can afford it, get a more recent one because of various upgrades in interiors, suspension, stereo, engine size, etc....but not because of fear mongering!
Good luck!
Pete
Don't get too carried away with the doom and gloom opinions that some have about the 3.4L engines.
There are a great many of us with those engines with high mileage driving around enjoying the cars.
I don't know why Macster points out the 3.4L as the ones to watch out for...I've seen just as many posts for later models with the 3.6L that have had the same problems as the 3.4L and even then it is a very small percentage of the many many 996's on the road.
Do your "due diligence", get a PPI, and if you can afford it, get a more recent one because of various upgrades in interiors, suspension, stereo, engine size, etc....but not because of fear mongering!
Good luck!
Pete
#6
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Any thoughts about a Cab? Wife likes the looks of those and if that is all it takes to buy her off a cab 911 is better than no 911!
Saw one with a harttop in Houston. How is the fit and road noise? Anyone have experience with the hoists for removal of the hard top? Anyone had issues with storing the rag top for months while HT is on?
Thanks
Jim
Saw one with a harttop in Houston. How is the fit and road noise? Anyone have experience with the hoists for removal of the hard top? Anyone had issues with storing the rag top for months while HT is on?
Thanks
Jim
#7
Rocky Mountain High
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If I still lived in Texas, I would have seriously considered a cab. I think the 996 cab is very nice looking.
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#8
The Penguin King
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I'm not a cab guy, but I can't imagine a part of the year where I would want to keep a hard top on the car in this part of the world. Maybe during August when it's so freaking hot. Otherwise, your as likely to have a top-down day in February as in June. If I were going for a cab, I would not worry about a hard top.
#9
Burning Brakes
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I drive my Cab. to work every morning, top down, what a great way to start the day. Just crank up the A/C for the drive home, again what a blast. Since it never rains in Austin forget the hardtop, you'll want to drive with the top down. I never bot the hardtop so I have no experience with fit. Seems to be just one more thing to store in the garage. On the wife front, I almost sold my Cab. last year for an above market price, but she wanted to keep the car. They are that much fun.
#10
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Jim!
Don't get too carried away with the doom and gloom opinions that some have about the 3.4L engines.
There are a great many of us with those engines with high mileage driving around enjoying the cars.
I don't know why Macster points out the 3.4L as the ones to watch out for...I've seen just as many posts for later models with the 3.6L that have had the same problems as the 3.4L and even then it is a very small percentage of the many many 996's on the road.
Do your "due diligence", get a PPI, and if you can afford it, get a more recent one because of various upgrades in interiors, suspension, stereo, engine size, etc....but not because of fear mongering!
Good luck!
Pete
Don't get too carried away with the doom and gloom opinions that some have about the 3.4L engines.
There are a great many of us with those engines with high mileage driving around enjoying the cars.
I don't know why Macster points out the 3.4L as the ones to watch out for...I've seen just as many posts for later models with the 3.6L that have had the same problems as the 3.4L and even then it is a very small percentage of the many many 996's on the road.
Do your "due diligence", get a PPI, and if you can afford it, get a more recent one because of various upgrades in interiors, suspension, stereo, engine size, etc....but not because of fear mongering!
Good luck!
Pete
A low mileage example of any M96 is risky cause engine/car may not have enough miles on it to have brought any inherent problems. Once car passes the 50K mark the odds of something going wrong drop greatly.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#11
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Interesting that you would include checking for track use in your sentence about body work, lack of care and maintenance, as if track use is a negative. Track use should not imply some form of improper care, although one would want to be aware of past driving history.
Good luck with your search, there are pleny of great 996's available. Don't be afraid to drive it, whether on the track or commuting.
Good luck with your search, there are pleny of great 996's available. Don't be afraid to drive it, whether on the track or commuting.
That is there is margin almost certainly ensures that nothing untoward will happen while current owner is using car (though there have been exceptions) but this track use does consume margin that would have been available to the next buyer/owner.
There is the problem of how good a driver the tracking driver is. Some are of course quite good and subject the car to less wear and tear while it is on the track than lesser drivers.
Also, some owners treat the car as a DD and track car yet do not give the car any more frequent servicing. Other owners are of course more in tune with the special demands tracking a car puts on the various car/engine assemblies and treat the car to more frequent servicing.
If you or anyone thinking of buying a car wants to consider track use as a neutral factor in considering the car that's fine with me.
However, I wouldn't consider a car that has been tracked and that's fine with me too.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#12
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Owned a cab for 7 years and used the hard top only in some of colder winters. I never even touched it for 3 or 4 se of those years.
The A/C on these 996's are so phenomenal that there is no appreciable cooling improvement with the hard top in the summers. If anything, it's the other way around. Whenever I had to park in the mid-day sun for an errand, for example, upon returning to the car I would open the soft top while still standing next to the car, and let all of the hot air just rise up into thin air. By the time I cycled the soft top back to a closed position, the interior temp had been reduced to the outdoor temp. I'd get in the car, close the windows, and blast the A/C. With the hard top, you'd have to drive around with the windows down for a few minutes to exhaust all of the hot air.
Since Austin has milder winters than Dallas, I'd recommend ditching the hard top if you end up with a cab.
Macaster, I agree that it is a good idea to inquire about track use. Good advice. But certainly you also realize that "making almost constant use of the engine's max. output" is absurd? No one drives on the track constantly close to the red line. If anything, they may actually try to avoid the red line since the higher torque provides no measurable advantage in speed compared to the next higher gear at a lower rpm, but does significantly make the car more prone to undesirable and rapid weight transfer (i.e. makes the car "twitchy" when you want it to be smooth).
So track use does not equate to a red flag on it's own. It simply informs you that some follow-up questions should be asked (whose answers may just as easily confirm that the given car has been well maintained beyond the average non-tracked car). For me personally, I'd be way more concerned about buying a leased car than a tracked car.
The A/C on these 996's are so phenomenal that there is no appreciable cooling improvement with the hard top in the summers. If anything, it's the other way around. Whenever I had to park in the mid-day sun for an errand, for example, upon returning to the car I would open the soft top while still standing next to the car, and let all of the hot air just rise up into thin air. By the time I cycled the soft top back to a closed position, the interior temp had been reduced to the outdoor temp. I'd get in the car, close the windows, and blast the A/C. With the hard top, you'd have to drive around with the windows down for a few minutes to exhaust all of the hot air.
Since Austin has milder winters than Dallas, I'd recommend ditching the hard top if you end up with a cab.
Macaster, I agree that it is a good idea to inquire about track use. Good advice. But certainly you also realize that "making almost constant use of the engine's max. output" is absurd? No one drives on the track constantly close to the red line. If anything, they may actually try to avoid the red line since the higher torque provides no measurable advantage in speed compared to the next higher gear at a lower rpm, but does significantly make the car more prone to undesirable and rapid weight transfer (i.e. makes the car "twitchy" when you want it to be smooth).
So track use does not equate to a red flag on it's own. It simply informs you that some follow-up questions should be asked (whose answers may just as easily confirm that the given car has been well maintained beyond the average non-tracked car). For me personally, I'd be way more concerned about buying a leased car than a tracked car.
#13
The Penguin King
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So track use does not equate to a red flag on it's own. It simply informs you that some follow-up questions should be asked (whose answers may just as easily confirm that the given car has been well maintained beyond the average non-tracked car). For me personally, I'd be way more concerned about buying a leased car than a tracked car.
#14
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As with any 10 year old used car, you might get a good one, or you might get a lemon. There are some things you can do to try to improve your odds of a good one, but there are no guarantees. Since there are lots of cars to choose from these days, keep your eye out for a decent bargain, get a PPI, and cross your fingers.
Tracked or not, there are a lot of 996's out there for sale. One of them has your name on it!
-td
#15
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I really like my 996 as my daily driver. Every time I stop by the Porsche dealer I look around, and to me trading to a newer model just does not seem to be worth it.
I have had a cab and now have a coupe. In MN a coupe is slightly more practical, but still miss the cab, especially in a great summer like we just had.
I have had a cab and now have a coupe. In MN a coupe is slightly more practical, but still miss the cab, especially in a great summer like we just had.