"IMS" input needed!
08-21-2009, 07:48 PM
#63
Nordschleife Master
Nice cop out as usual Jake. Just for once I'd like to see you offer an opinion of substance on this board rather than talk about what is wrong with everything and say you have the fix but only will discuss it with a bonafide customer. Explain to me again what you goal is here?
It's a shame as we all would like to hear from you since this is your area of expertise.
It's a shame as we all would like to hear from you since this is your area of expertise.
08-21-2009, 08:39 PM
#65
Race Car
08-21-2009, 08:46 PM
#66
Nordschleife Master
It's what gets me through the week. Every Friday night is martini night in my house, but just Friday that way they are extra delicious. And oh yeah, I'd have to cancel classes all the time if I was pouring this during the week 
08-21-2009, 10:12 PM
#67
Weathergirl
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dammit. You all are MUCH worse than the 993 guys.
Maybe we can get cnavarro to post here more. I'll keep buying Motul from him (best price around, BTW).
Maybe we can get cnavarro to post here more. I'll keep buying Motul from him (best price around, BTW).
08-21-2009, 10:16 PM
#69
Drifting
Sort of in the vein of pressure fed tensioners for 74' - 83' 911 engines, could the IMS bearing be retrofitted with a pressure feed and fix the problem together with a new IMS & bearing system???
BTW- The IMS bearingis a SEALED unit... Meaning that it is permanently lubricated when manufactured and due to this it is isolated from the engine's oil supply. No matter how often you service your engine, the IMS bearing sees NONE of that fresh, clean oil!!! You can change the oil every 2K miles and still become a statistic, because NONE of that oil will ever see the IMS bearing.
08-21-2009, 10:26 PM
#70
Drifting
that's frikein' hilarious!
I'm still clucking...I am running 0/40M1 and the engine seems to be very slightly 'racketty', but not offensively especially to untrained ears. Maybe I'll half&half it next go round - which should be in half the time that Porshee recommends. I'm tempted yank the engine out of my Tip, - buy a 6spd, yank that engine and put it in the Tip car then sell the Tip car (cheap), send my reman to Jake and have him hot rod and beef the crap out of it and then run the living daylights out of the 'new' 6spd car.
I'm still clucking...I am running 0/40M1 and the engine seems to be very slightly 'racketty', but not offensively especially to untrained ears. Maybe I'll half&half it next go round - which should be in half the time that Porshee recommends. I'm tempted yank the engine out of my Tip, - buy a 6spd, yank that engine and put it in the Tip car then sell the Tip car (cheap), send my reman to Jake and have him hot rod and beef the crap out of it and then run the living daylights out of the 'new' 6spd car.
08-21-2009, 11:50 PM
#71
Burning Brakes
The area of the IMS bearing is flooded with clean, cool oil during operation so no one knows why Porsche sealed it. The sealed bearing is by far the single biggest contributor to the IMS failures... The same thing is occurring with the pinion bearings within the 6 speed tranny that also use a sealed bearing for some bazaar reason.. For those the trick for several years has been to rip the seal off and open the bearing to gear oil... I have NEVER heard of another failure after a gearbox was repaired with this modified bearing procedure.
Lvdell,
I'll talk about most anything here except engine oils.. I have been fighting that battle online for over a decade and learned long ago that its a battle that can't be won... Especially when anything I'd recommend or state would directly go against the recommendations of the engine manufacturer.
One day when we have several more years worth of data and "evidence" I will find the intestinal fortitude to step up and post the information.. By that time it'll be damn near impossible for anyone to argue with the facts.
There is nothing more worthless than an oil debate...
As far as "talking bad about everything" well, thats just the way the ball bounces.. I received 19 failure calls THIS WEEK, answer the phone to that many calls from down and out Porsche Owners and then spend your time fixing the broken engines.. The engines that have the same issues over and over again. Some of these people sound like their Dog was shot or they lost their best friend, and it can be very depressing.
As we fight the issues it is also a painful, expensive learning curve of true development... Two steps forward is countered by one step back.. Sorry for being so negative, but it is simply reality.. Come answer my phone for a week and you'll never deny that these engines have "issues" again.
08-22-2009, 08:54 AM
#72
Race Car
that's frikein' hilarious! I'm still clucking...I am running 0/40M1 and the engine seems to be very slightly 'racketty', but not offensively especially to untrained ears. Maybe I'll half&half it next go round - which should be in half the time that Porshee recommends. I'm tempted yank the engine out of my Tip, - buy a 6spd, yank that engine and put it in the Tip car then sell the Tip car (cheap), send my reman to Jake and have him hot rod and beef the crap out of it and then run the living daylights out of the 'new' 6spd car.
I'm still clucking...I am running 0/40M1 and the engine seems to be very slightly 'racketty', but not offensively especially to untrained ears. Maybe I'll half&half it next go round - which should be in half the time that Porshee recommends. I'm tempted yank the engine out of my Tip, - buy a 6spd, yank that engine and put it in the Tip car then sell the Tip car (cheap), send my reman to Jake and have him hot rod and beef the crap out of it and then run the living daylights out of the 'new' 6spd car.Move to a better viscosity oil. Use the Mobil 0W40 on your door hinges, not in your engine.
08-22-2009, 10:57 AM
#73
Nordschleife Master
Lvdell,
I'll talk about most anything here except engine oils.. I have been fighting that battle online for over a decade and learned long ago that its a battle that can't be won... Especially when anything I'd recommend or state would directly go against the recommendations of the engine manufacturer.
One day when we have several more years worth of data and "evidence" I will find the intestinal fortitude to step up and post the information.. By that time it'll be damn near impossible for anyone to argue with the facts.
There is nothing more worthless than an oil debate...
I'll talk about most anything here except engine oils.. I have been fighting that battle online for over a decade and learned long ago that its a battle that can't be won... Especially when anything I'd recommend or state would directly go against the recommendations of the engine manufacturer.
One day when we have several more years worth of data and "evidence" I will find the intestinal fortitude to step up and post the information.. By that time it'll be damn near impossible for anyone to argue with the facts.
There is nothing more worthless than an oil debate...
Until such time, most of us are following the rec'd of PAG/PCNA for our cars as outlined in either (a) our manuals; or (b) the TSB lists that are contstantly updated.
Until somebody explains WHY one oil is empirically better for the M96 than another (or showing a ranking of various oils like Mobil1, BradPenn, Amsoil, Joe Gibbs, etc) then most will just take what PAG states as scripture and go on faith.
We need more people with expertise to contribute rather than state they don't want to get into a pissing match with the dissenters. OBviously your skin is thick as most can't take my honesty and tell it like it is personality. I appreciate that. So post away!
08-22-2009, 11:30 AM
#74
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks for explaining your rationale but I would hope you would allow that to be secondary to those that really want to hear what you have to say. For me, I would like to hear it and God knows many others do. As long as it's explained WHY, then it would be informative rather than "well because Porsche says so".
Until such time, most of us are following the rec'd of PAG/PCNA for our cars as outlined in either (a) our manuals; or (b) the TSB lists that are contstantly updated.
Until somebody explains WHY one oil is empirically better for the M96 than another (or showing a ranking of various oils like Mobil1, BradPenn, Amsoil, Joe Gibbs, etc) then most will just take what PAG states as scripture and go on faith.
We need more people with expertise to contribute rather than state they don't want to get into a pissing match with the dissenters. OBviously your skin is thick as most can't take my honesty and tell it like it is personality. I appreciate that. So post away!
Until such time, most of us are following the rec'd of PAG/PCNA for our cars as outlined in either (a) our manuals; or (b) the TSB lists that are contstantly updated.
Until somebody explains WHY one oil is empirically better for the M96 than another (or showing a ranking of various oils like Mobil1, BradPenn, Amsoil, Joe Gibbs, etc) then most will just take what PAG states as scripture and go on faith.
We need more people with expertise to contribute rather than state they don't want to get into a pissing match with the dissenters. OBviously your skin is thick as most can't take my honesty and tell it like it is personality. I appreciate that. So post away!
I have to agree....
again.... its an OPINION that is based on YOUR experience and that is why WE would LIKE to know.........
(this will **** him off
)Its not like your OPINION is right ...........
hahahaha
J/K
08-22-2009, 12:14 PM
#75
Race Car
There are benefits to using low viscosity oil over higher viscosity oil. All things being equal, you will get better fuel economy, slightly cooler oil and less power will be lost to drag. The benefits of higher viscosity oil are far more numerous. Better pressure throughout the oil system, better separation of components, thicker and stronger film between parts, better “cling”, less shear, less oil leaks, less burning of oil, less evaporation, and less prone to aeration.
If an engine was perfectly balanced and tight, you could probably get away with running straight 0 weight oil. But in the real world, engine component are not balanced and with every rotation of the crank, components attempt to hit each other. (especially at low rpm and high loads). It is the oil that keeps them from being successful.
So, like everything else in life, you make a compromise. Better performance in the short run, or longer engine life.
People don’t realize that there is a HUGE acceptable range in the kinematic viscosity shear rate of a given viscosity rating. 40 weight oil can be as thin as 30 weight oil and still be classified as 40 weight. Example: A 30 weight oil can have a kinematic viscosity shear rate in the rage of 9.3 -12.5 at 100C. A 40 weight oil can have a kinematic viscosity shear rate in the rage of 12.5 -16.3 at 100C.
Furthermore, a 0W40 oil and a 15W40 oil DO NOT have the same absolute viscosity when hot. The 15W40 will provide you more protection against shearing. And this is exactly why I recommend a 15W50 oil in the Porsche engine.
The vast majority of people’s knowledge of oils is what they have learned through marketing and claim they are experts because they have read all this marketing literature. Others have both academic training and experience and have been able to learn beyond what the manufacturers want you to know.
If anyone was seriously interested in determining the best oil for their car, they would pursue the truth from a source other than a forum like this. All others are just stuck arguing with false facts and stuck following the marketer’s recommendations. But, most people are lazy and demand others to post "proof", rather than getting off their asses and doing a little leg work themselves. Yet, the only proof they have for their side of the debate is "it's on the approved list".
If an engine was perfectly balanced and tight, you could probably get away with running straight 0 weight oil. But in the real world, engine component are not balanced and with every rotation of the crank, components attempt to hit each other. (especially at low rpm and high loads). It is the oil that keeps them from being successful.
So, like everything else in life, you make a compromise. Better performance in the short run, or longer engine life.
People don’t realize that there is a HUGE acceptable range in the kinematic viscosity shear rate of a given viscosity rating. 40 weight oil can be as thin as 30 weight oil and still be classified as 40 weight. Example: A 30 weight oil can have a kinematic viscosity shear rate in the rage of 9.3 -12.5 at 100C. A 40 weight oil can have a kinematic viscosity shear rate in the rage of 12.5 -16.3 at 100C.
Furthermore, a 0W40 oil and a 15W40 oil DO NOT have the same absolute viscosity when hot. The 15W40 will provide you more protection against shearing. And this is exactly why I recommend a 15W50 oil in the Porsche engine.
The vast majority of people’s knowledge of oils is what they have learned through marketing and claim they are experts because they have read all this marketing literature. Others have both academic training and experience and have been able to learn beyond what the manufacturers want you to know.
If anyone was seriously interested in determining the best oil for their car, they would pursue the truth from a source other than a forum like this. All others are just stuck arguing with false facts and stuck following the marketer’s recommendations. But, most people are lazy and demand others to post "proof", rather than getting off their asses and doing a little leg work themselves. Yet, the only proof they have for their side of the debate is "it's on the approved list".