htny

you will need at least one abrasive polish finer than powergloss (which is real compound and will leave a much duller surface as it gets out scratches.) Zaino Z5 is not actually polish, no abrasives worth mentionng.

If you will only buy one, Super Intensive Polish would be the way to go, and just use multiple passes (without seeing the severity of the scratches, it's hard to make a definitive recommendation, but the rule of thumb is if your fingernail catches in it, its too deep for anything but compound)

Since you have the Zaino use it, definitely good stuff, lasts forever.

DO NOT use a rotary/circular polisher if you are not very experienced, it is far to easy to burn the paint. Do multiple passes with the Random Orbital if you need more cut.

Towels: Zaino is all about cotton, most everyone else swears by microfiber, and the answer is it doesn't matter so long as its clean and fine. A lot of people buy microfiber from pak shak.

ryangambrill

I just took a look at the scratches. My fingernail is not catching any of them. I guess that is good news as they are not too deep. Thanks for the advice on the polisher. I will be sure to use the porter cable 7424.

Here is my revised process:

1. Menzerna Power Gloss - Super Intensive Polish - Orange or White Pad http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-sup...ve-polish.html
2. Zaino Z2 w/ ZFX - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=11
3. Zaino Z6 Spray - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=13

I already own a bunch of microfiber cloths and will just use those.

Should I use the Lake Country 6.5 Orange or White pad?

Anything else I am forgetting?

Fast40th

I also have a lot of time constraints and understand where you're coming from.

And the best advice when trying to remove scratches and blemishes with polishers is to always start with the less abrasive polish/pad combo first, inspect and work your way up from there.

A porter cable type polisher with at least 3 different pads (scratch remover, polishing and waxing) should be a good kit. Plenty of microfiber towels (WITH TAGS REMOVED) and a few microfiber aplicator pads/sponges will complete your setup.

I have been using P21S products since I got the car from new. I like the ease of their use and I especially like the wax. Easy to apply and clean, and doesn't stain dark plastic or rubber. I also put a coat of Klasse All in One glaze after polish and before waxing (once or twice a year). And throughout the year I use Meguair's Quick detailer.

To maintain the plastics I use 303 Aerospace protectant spray - work slike a charm and easy. I go through the car at least 3 times a year. Lexol also has a vinyl protectant spray that does a good job, and can be used on the tires as well. (non-glossy finish)

For leather maintenence I use Lexol cleaner and conditioner sprays - quick and easy to use - and do a pretty good job. I do this at least 2 times a year.

For wheels and chrome I like to use Blue Magic.

Many people like to use Rejex. I use it on my other vehicles not the 911, and it is easy to apply with great results.

Here's how my car looks after a good dose of Klasse + P21S wax:

Orient Express

Here's Gary's 7 steps to a spectacular surface.

1. Prepare the surface.
Wash your car with a mild liquid dishwashing detergent or if that makes you squeamish, several washes with car wash detergent, to strip off the wax, and get down to the uncovered paint finish.

2. Remove embedded foreign material.
Go over the finish with a clay bar to remove the surface residual and embedded gunk in the paint. If you have Stone guard or any of the protective films on the front of your car, do not clay the film as it will scratch. (This is a shortcoming with films, there is not an easy way of giving them a deep cleaning, and by function, they will get the brunt of impact damage and absorb much of the airborne material that your car hits while in motion. This is why I recommend bras like the ones from Speed Lingerie to protect the front of your car.)

3. Fill the micro-imperfections.
Give the finish a covering of glaze applied with an orbital buffer and non-cutting (orange or red colored) foam pad.

4. Level the finish for a specularly flat surface.
Apply a coat of swirl remover with a Orbital buffer and non-cutting foam pad. This will insure a mirror-like finish. Some may skip this step if the finish is already in good shape.

5. QC your work.
After you have buffed out the above, Go have lunch, wait at least 2 hours and buff it again to remove residual oils, glaze, and swirl remover. Do this in bright light, as you will be amazed at how much you did not get with the first buffing.

6. Seal the finish with a high release, high reflective coating.
Apply a coat of Rejex, include windows and rims, buff, and let cure overnight.

7. Finish it with depth and make it tough.
Next day give it another coat, let cure at least 8 hours. This will make the Rejex coating last much longer.

If you do this process once a year, then touchup at 6 month intervals is all you need. In addition, some folks apply a coat of their favorite wax like P21S on top of the Rejex (Never before Rejex) to add some additional slide and to re-level the paint micro-scratches.

HINT: Harley Davidson sells P21S waxes branded as S100. Same wax, same container, half the price.

To see the results, click on "check out my 996" below.

medtech

Check out the Porter cable 7424xp at Gloss-it.
http://www.gloss-it.net/7424XPG220PO...ADS-tp2-9.html

Their stuff looks good although I haven't tried it yet. "Old Guy" on the 997 forum recommends them though.

They have a nice video for the novice, on how to get out scratches...
http://www.gloss-it.net/index.php?id=51&manprev=z

Orient Express

BTW: The Porter Cable random orbital buffer is available at Lowe's Hardware.

AudiOn19s

As others have stated...PowerGloss is VERY agressive (and often needed for hard VW paint) and requires at least one, if not two polishing stages afterwords to clean up. After using PowerGloss and an Orange or yellow pad the paint should look cloudy and hazy. You're not doing anything wrong, it's a byproduct of being agressive enough to actually correct the damage done to the paint.

What you have listed as #1 should really be broken out to two or 3 different steps like this:
1 - Menzerna PowerGloss w/ Orange pad (assuming LC pads)
2 - Menzerna SIP w/ white pad
**optional 3 Menzenra finishing polish (choose one..I like 85RD) with black pad for ultimate finishing gloss.
Then the Z2
Then the Z6

Too bad you're not a little closer...I'd gladly help. I hate when hacks give all us detailers a bad name.

Andy

p.s.. Coastal Tool is the cheapest you'll find the PC if you don't already own one. AutoGeek will price match that price and still allow you to get the best price without needing multiple retailers to get everything you want in one shopping experience.

gota911

BAWAHAHAHAHAH! Good one!

PJorgen

You live in Cleavland? Well there's your problem.

j/k, good luck with the scratches.

ryangambrill

Yea, I know. Would you believe that I moved here from Fort Lauderdale!!!

ryangambrill

I apologize, as I made an error. My fingernail is not catching any of the scratches. I was thinking that I would not need the Power Gloss.

Am I correct? If so, here is the process I was thinking:

1. Menzerna Super Intensive Polish - White Pad http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-sup...ve-polish.html
2. Menzerna Finishing Polish - Black Pad http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-fin...sh-po85rd.html
3. Zaino Z2 w/ ZFX - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=11
4. Zaino Z6 Spray - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=13

Questions:

Should I apply the SIP (Step 1) to only the scratched areas, or should I do the entire car?

ryangambrill

Thanks for helping me out. Yea, too bad you are not closer. If you are ever in Cleveland, be sure to drop me a line.

htny

It's really so hard to say without seeing it, but you could buy the powergloss and accompanying pad just in case the SIP+additional work time doesn't take it out.

One thing to note, SIP finishes down to a very smooth look, and while it does not contain silicone, it does have some kind of oil or other filler in it that will temporarily hide scratches from your eyes. In order to reveal them, you'll need to wipe down the areas you polished with isopropyl alcohol solution or prep-sol.

You have two choices with scratches, hide them temporarily and repeat every few months, or level them permanently. I realized a long time ago that no matter what I do to prevent swirls and scratches when the car is within my control, it all gets undone when the dealer decides to ignore my "Don't Wash" instructions or a valet or my garage attendant or another parallel parker does something silly. My car needs to be polished at least once a year, so I just use SIP, recognize that it fills in scratches a little, then use 85RD, top it off with Ultima PGP, and maintain it with a mix of optimum no rinse w/ distilled water and an occasional booster coat of ultima PGP.

The right way to do it is get the car stripped down and masked off, use the SIP on the scratches only initially (watch some video tutorials on random orbital polishing first). Then buff off residue and wipe down the work areas with isopropyl alcohol. Anything that still has scratches that you can't live with, use the powergloss, repeat the inspection process, DO NOT be tempted to try taking out a stubborn scratch with your hands and some powergloss, you run a very high risk of burning the paint that way.

If you have to compound anything, just repolish those areas with SIP until they are glossy, then run over the whole car with SIP, then 85RD, then wash it / wipe it down with alcohol, then apply Zaino.

AudiOn19s

If we were talking Porsche paint you could probably get away with just SIP on an orange pad as it's soft and fairly easy to work with from a detailing perspective.

However Audi / VW paint is well known as some of the hardest paint in the industry. With some time and effort the SIP and organge pad may do the job it'll probably just take multiple passes.

Oh...and the above comment about SIP having fillers is spot on. Inspect your work in the sun with an alcohol wipe down to make sure you're really getting the results you're after.

ryangambrill

I think I am just going to clay the whole car, stick with the SIP on the scratches, use 85RD on the whole car, and then Zaino. Keep in mind that this car is a Silver 2001 Jetta GLS that just turned 100k miles. It is by no means a show car, but it does not deserve to have these scratches. I will post some pics in a few min.