Engine stutters when cold
#16
Race Director
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If the behavior/symptom gone... MAF is #1 suspect. Since these are so expensive you want to be sure though.
Be sure the oil filler tube cap is not leaking. (The original one on my 02 Boxster was leaking (I couldn't hear it but a co-worker did). My missing this leak caused me to mis-diagnose a MAF as the cause and replace a perfectly good MAF when a $15 cap was the real fix. But all worked out: The replacement MAF started acting up -- I made a better diagnosis this 2nd time -- and on a hunch I dug the old MAF out of my car parts stash and installed the old MAF. Old MAF worked just fine and it is still working just fine.)
Anyhow, get an OBD2 code reader/data viewer and prior to or at cold engine start verify intake air and coolant temperatures are close to ambient and each other. Verify neither jumps up (or down) at engine start or after as the engine's idling/warming up. If you see for instance the coolant sensor reading high the engine controller will be misled into believing the engine is warmer than it is and run a leaner mixture which can account for the behavior you observe.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#17
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I told you its too cold to drive the p-car out here!!! ![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
My car is a '99 C4 with a reman engine...53k miles on the car with 10k miles on the new (to me) engine. For months now it's been stuttering when I hit the gas after a cold start. It seems to idle just fine, but as soon as I get it out on the street it stutters and bogs down when I hit the gas pedal very hard at all. It usually does this for a minute or two and then operates perfectly normal.
Any ideas? TIA!
Any ideas? TIA!
#18
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#19
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Check the air filter lately?
Yah sure the electronic adjust for airflow but that doesn't mean it like slower air flow.
-20 ??? You ought to be ashamed of yourself. Maybe try getting the air intake to fed off engine compartment air thats a bit warmer.
Yah sure the electronic adjust for airflow but that doesn't mean it like slower air flow.
-20 ??? You ought to be ashamed of yourself. Maybe try getting the air intake to fed off engine compartment air thats a bit warmer.
#20
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But winter, it was -10C (14F) this morning, and it took about 10min drive to get rid of the symptoms.
All the problems wanish when engine temp is above 50C (122F)
My educated quess is the temp sensor.
And thank you Macster, I have all ready ordered Durametric.
When it arrives, I will check the sensors.
#22
Team Owner
Thread Starter
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Ashamed of myself? For using my car? I don't know what some of y'all think happens to these cars when the outside temperature drops below 50 degrees, but it's simply not true.
Also, a "cold start" isn't describing the act of firing the car up at -16 degrees, like I did just this morning.
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#23
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Ok,
So I got the Durametric and tested the sensors this morning.
Maf is ok, values at idle about 37kg/s (if iremember the unit correctly)
ECTS was 7Celsius of from ambient, but I dont think this if causing the broblem
IATS was 12Celsius of
Only one fault code, "injector 1 open circuit" reset it and it did not come back.
I think I will try the injector cleaner that Pac996 suggested and see if that helps
So I got the Durametric and tested the sensors this morning.
Maf is ok, values at idle about 37kg/s (if iremember the unit correctly)
ECTS was 7Celsius of from ambient, but I dont think this if causing the broblem
IATS was 12Celsius of
Only one fault code, "injector 1 open circuit" reset it and it did not come back.
I think I will try the injector cleaner that Pac996 suggested and see if that helps
#24
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I hope the engine looses its chill towards running in the cold. Even if a little water or gunk ends up in an injector it can freeze things up which might be whats happened. Even the cleaner fluids don't make injectors all the way clean. There are different varietys of injectors and some of them have so many tiny passages I could swear they are meant to foul up. I don't think ethanol helps matters with the water the alcohol can hold which makes me think of the fuel like a dakari cocktail for the car going through the fuel lines
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#25
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ok, just got mine FIXED ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
List of things that I did
- Put back the loose injector #1 wire... (yep, my foult)
- Put some connector cleaner and oil to engine harness plugs. (that attaches to frame harness)
- Take out and cleaned the oilfillertube, seems that it had a small leak in o-ring that is on the block side. Put some engine silicon on the o-ring. (did not have new o-ring) (This one was pain in the a** to do)
- Put some engine silicon on the throttlebody seal.
- Cleaned the maf with some electrical cleaner
I used the durametric to find out the problem. There are dme setpoints in the servicemanual, and some info what could be wrong if the values are wrong.
Specs can be found on Group 0 diagnosis to 45, on the servicemanual.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
List of things that I did
- Put back the loose injector #1 wire... (yep, my foult)
- Put some connector cleaner and oil to engine harness plugs. (that attaches to frame harness)
- Take out and cleaned the oilfillertube, seems that it had a small leak in o-ring that is on the block side. Put some engine silicon on the o-ring. (did not have new o-ring) (This one was pain in the a** to do)
- Put some engine silicon on the throttlebody seal.
- Cleaned the maf with some electrical cleaner
I used the durametric to find out the problem. There are dme setpoints in the servicemanual, and some info what could be wrong if the values are wrong.
Specs can be found on Group 0 diagnosis to 45, on the servicemanual.