nycebo

I got the Interstate H7 also. It cost me around 175 bucks. The car runs like a champ. All these discussion talking about how great your battery is after 2 years are moot. It's the 4-5 year barrier that I'm keen to hear about. As for the Porsche Moll, it's much more than the H7, so AP997S, take heart that you spent less than OEM. As for the Optima batteries, I've read some pretty daunting stories about their longevity but have never had one so who can say. Personally, the H7 looked like a direct replacement of OEM for less money and more performance. Job well done.

Jack14

Just picked up the Kirland version from Costco - $76+. It is much smaller in physical size than the OEM battery and I'm unable to strap the [smaller] Kirkland battery to the body. Anyone else have this problem?

jhbrennan

Take it back and get the one recommended in this post - it will fit perectly. You don't want the battery loose.

Jack14

I went in to pick up a Group 47 from Costco as rcommended in another thread, but Costco didn't have any. We then checked an catalogue and selected the recommended battery for a 04 3.6. Its about 2 inches too short, but that's not the real problem. The problem is the mounting bracket will not fit over the top lip on the bottom of the battery so there is no way to hold it in place.

Jack14

Moved the battery all the way to the edge of the battery tray towards the drivers side and moved the bolt and copper plate over to the driver's side. All good.

Mabuhay

Just adding my data point. I just replaced my battery now. Autozone specs out a Duralast H8-DLG. When I brought my original battery to Autozone, the Duralast H8-DLG was a bit longer than the OEM battery for my 2004 C4S. Luckily, I asked the salesperson to check with me what alternatives they had. We put my battery next to some other ones and found an EXACT size match. Here are the specs below. It cost me $145 with the $12 core charge ($157 without).

Duralast
Part Number: 94R-DLG
Weight: 47.4 lbs
Warranty: 8 YR
Application: Automobile
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 730
Core Charge Applicable: Yes
DIN Designation: H7
EN Designation: 77L4
Height (In): 7.5
Height (mm): 190
Length (In): 12.4375
Length (mm): 315
Width (In): 6.9375
Width (mm): 175
Weight (Lbs): 48.5
Post Location: Top Post
Reserve Capacity (Min): 140
Right Or Left Hand Positive: Right
Voltage: 12

It's a bit pricey but still better than the $250-$300 or whatever Porsche is charging nowadays for a battery that probably doesn't have the same cold cranking amps.

wwest

Costco doesn't carry the group 49 battery my '01 Porsche C4 requires so I went to Shucks and paid ~$100 for one that fits perfectly.

Thundertub

Funny, I haven't seen a battery thread for a while, here, and yet today this one is resurrected on the very day I replace the battery in mine. I had a perfect cold start this morning, but an hour later, after 12 miles of driving followed by a 40 minute stop, it wouldn't crank the motor over.

Lucky me, I was parked on a bit of an incline with an empty parking lot behind me, so I put the car in reverse, let off the parking brake, and when I was rolling enough I popped the clutch and it fired right up (thoroughly buries for me any future thoughts about getting Tip or PDK - LOL!).

Lucky me, I was on my way over to the Porsche dealer anyway as my next stop.

Lucky me, when I got there they were expecting the Interstate Battery guy to arrive any minute with a fresh load of correct size and power batteries.

Lucky me, he arrived within a few minutes, and the dealer plopped in the new battery within minutes, charged me $120 for the battery, and nothing for the install.

wwest

And I will take bets, under the circumstances you describe, that you have wasted good money replacing a perfectly good battery.

"...Perfect cold start..."

The charging system was working fine the last time you drove but has failed in the interim period.

Long Islander

I don't see Deka on your list. Who makes that?

Thundertub

Yes, you could be absolutely correct. But I am smart enough about these things to have considered that before blindly buying a battery.

I failed to mention that the dealer also threw the computer on the charging system to make certain the battery was the problem and not something else, before selling me a new battery.

My existing battery was last replaced in 2004. Even if it had turned out to be the alternator, I would have bought a new battery anyway when the alternator was replaced. I prefer not to eek things like this out to the last possible minute.

And I totally expect to have to replace the alternator some day in the forseable future since the car is now 12 years old. Just not this time.

bkjwhipple

sounds more like a starter...

samk

Go to Griots Garage for a charger.

Thundertub

Yeah, exactly what I was thinking at first. Maybe a bad or dirty connection, or the same 12 years of age, would explain it. But the starter has worked like a champ since the new battery went in. Everything fires the moment the ignition switch hits. And with substantially more vigor than the last couple weeks. A dying starter would not have been "phased" by a new battery (yes, pun intended) if the old battery was in fact healthy.

I'm still open to the charging system theory. But I have had several starts and stops, with very short distances and headlights, yesterday after the dealer and again today. Everything seems to be in perfect order. But the new battery may be doing that.

I'll know in a week if it dies again. Then it definitely was NOT the battery. LOL!

Thundertub

Just a two week update on my battery purchase.
As odd as it may seem to some (and myself) the new battery has done the trick. No issues of any kind, hot or cold, starts perfect and with excellent "vigor" every time.