Oil pressure sender unit replacement - DIY
#121
Race Car
#122
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This 15 minute 1 beer job has me seriously questioning my mechanic skills. I'm at least 6 beers and 2 hours in over multiple episodes. What I have found on my 02 cab with sport exhaust:
- cab engine bay must be smaller/more cramped. I cannot reach the unit or the wires from the top. Impossible. My hand will not get in there.
- the vacuum canisters/muffler for the sport exhaust (Which totally make the car btw), take up all the space. I cannot remove the heat shield by the spark plugs/coil packs. Accordingly, I cannot reach up to the unit- it's not visible than it is from the top, but no less accessible by hand.
So, I either take it to the shop OR pull the muffler off to get more wiggle room. The only problem with this plan is that the exhaust bolts are so rusted in, I'm sure I'll break a few, so I'll have to get new stainless bolts...
Other ideas???
- cab engine bay must be smaller/more cramped. I cannot reach the unit or the wires from the top. Impossible. My hand will not get in there.
- the vacuum canisters/muffler for the sport exhaust (Which totally make the car btw), take up all the space. I cannot remove the heat shield by the spark plugs/coil packs. Accordingly, I cannot reach up to the unit- it's not visible than it is from the top, but no less accessible by hand.
So, I either take it to the shop OR pull the muffler off to get more wiggle room. The only problem with this plan is that the exhaust bolts are so rusted in, I'm sure I'll break a few, so I'll have to get new stainless bolts...
Other ideas???
#123
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This 15 minute 1 beer job has me seriously questioning my mechanic skills. I'm at least 6 beers and 2 hours in over multiple episodes. What I have found on my 02 cab with sport exhaust:
- cab engine bay must be smaller/more cramped. I cannot reach the unit or the wires from the top. Impossible. My hand will not get in there.
- the vacuum canisters/muffler for the sport exhaust (Which totally make the car btw), take up all the space. I cannot remove the heat shield by the spark plugs/coil packs. Accordingly, I cannot reach up to the unit- it's not visible than it is from the top, but no less accessible by hand.
So, I either take it to the shop OR pull the muffler off to get more wiggle room. The only problem with this plan is that the exhaust bolts are so rusted in, I'm sure I'll break a few, so I'll have to get new stainless bolts...
Other ideas???
- cab engine bay must be smaller/more cramped. I cannot reach the unit or the wires from the top. Impossible. My hand will not get in there.
- the vacuum canisters/muffler for the sport exhaust (Which totally make the car btw), take up all the space. I cannot remove the heat shield by the spark plugs/coil packs. Accordingly, I cannot reach up to the unit- it's not visible than it is from the top, but no less accessible by hand.
So, I either take it to the shop OR pull the muffler off to get more wiggle room. The only problem with this plan is that the exhaust bolts are so rusted in, I'm sure I'll break a few, so I'll have to get new stainless bolts...
Other ideas???
#124
Rennlist Member
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((Sincere apologies for missing this as a 996 post and polluting your space with 997 woes.))
Resurrecting this one..
I noticed recently that my gauge reads 3-4 whenever I turn the ignition on. It's behavior when running never seemed off to me. 5 after start up, and once warm under spirited conditions, drops to 1-2 at idle and runs quickly back to 3 or 4+ under load. But I have the new sender and figure, why not...
As noted above, the cab engine bay is certainly tighter. Like torture device tight. That picture of the bay which shows the wrench on the sender made my eyes bug out, because the same area in my cab barely allows my bony arm and hand in there. I can detach the wires, but don't think there's any way to maneuver a wrench in there from the top.
So, I will try the bottom-up approach, but already sense this one will be more irritating and time-consuming than the motor mount replacement I did last night which required only a leisurely 20 minutes.
Resurrecting this one..
I noticed recently that my gauge reads 3-4 whenever I turn the ignition on. It's behavior when running never seemed off to me. 5 after start up, and once warm under spirited conditions, drops to 1-2 at idle and runs quickly back to 3 or 4+ under load. But I have the new sender and figure, why not...
As noted above, the cab engine bay is certainly tighter. Like torture device tight. That picture of the bay which shows the wrench on the sender made my eyes bug out, because the same area in my cab barely allows my bony arm and hand in there. I can detach the wires, but don't think there's any way to maneuver a wrench in there from the top.
So, I will try the bottom-up approach, but already sense this one will be more irritating and time-consuming than the motor mount replacement I did last night which required only a leisurely 20 minutes.
Last edited by Hootsama; 08-10-2021 at 09:55 AM.
#125
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I just replaced mine, the biggest issue was the thickness of the crows foot wrench. Once I ground that down to fit it took like 2 minutes. Wasted 20 minutes pulling off the wheel, ground strap, and trying to get it from below. Super easy from the top once the wrench fits in there. Should be a 10 minute job as others have said.
Last edited by silver9962002; 03-03-2023 at 11:18 AM.