Oil pressure sender unit replacement - DIY
The following 2 users liked this post by dak911:
fourblades (09-23-2019),
kupson (03-14-2024)
#107
Rennlist Member
#108
Three Wheelin'
Unfortunately, one lives 3 hours away, and the other is a computer person and drives a Pontiac small SUV (ugly little POS), somehow he escaped the "car" gene...he couldn't car less about the "damn" things....
The part is on its way and I will have a "looks see"....my worry is that I get it out and then my back gives out.....flatbed to the shop.
Years ago who even thought that far ahead......
The part is on its way and I will have a "looks see"....my worry is that I get it out and then my back gives out.....flatbed to the shop.
Years ago who even thought that far ahead......
#109
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, one lives 3 hours away, and the other is a computer person and drives a Pontiac small SUV (ugly little POS), somehow he escaped the "car" gene...he couldn't car less about the "damn" things....
The part is on its way and I will have a "looks see"....my worry is that I get it out and then my back gives out.....flatbed to the shop.
Years ago who even thought that far ahead......
The part is on its way and I will have a "looks see"....my worry is that I get it out and then my back gives out.....flatbed to the shop.
Years ago who even thought that far ahead......
#111
Instructor
I just replaced mine and it was so easy. I did not jack up the car or remove the rear wheel. Just remove the 2 10mm bolts to the spark plug heat shield and you have easy access to the oil pressure sensor from below. I used the recommended 19mm crows foot. Very easy DIY.
#112
Rennlist Member
I did same recently
I did it from top only, I removed the airbox and 2 wires going to sender unit.
I think one key is crows foot needs to be think so it can get underneath sender head and top of motor block shell.
15 minutes start to finish.
78.00 repair w Porsche part and crows foot socket.
Pictures if needed.
#113
Instructor
#114
Instructor
And I agree with the previous post regarding working from the top. Both ways are easy but from the top is much more easier and simpler.
Last edited by rhkwon; 07-12-2019 at 07:31 PM.
#115
#116
Drifting
#117
Advanced
I just replaced the oil sending unit on my car today after couple of unsuccessful attempts. My unit was tightly screwed and it was difficult to remove.
I would like to add couple of notes:
I would like to add couple of notes:
- In order to access the unit from under the car, the spark plug shield must be removed. It is an aluminum cover held in place with 2 10 mm hex head screws.
- The 19 mm crowfoot must be ground down to approximately 5 - 6 mm thickness in order to be able to squeeze it in there and get it onto the hex nut of the unit.
- It is recommenced to have a helper who is going to hold the crowfoot in place tightly on the hex nut of the unit, from the top of the car, while another person will unscrew the hex nut of the unit from under the car. This way any slipping is going to be avoided.
- Make sure you turn the ratchet in the Clockwise direction from under the car
- Mount the new unit from the top of the car and tighten it with your hand as much as possible.
- Do half more turn from under the car.
- Do not over tighten the new unit.
- Use the helper when tightening the new unit to hold the crowfoot in place
The following users liked this post:
YT1 (07-17-2019)
#118
Glad I found this post. My oil pressure always showed top of the scale. One time I noticed that just turning on the key pegged the gauge to max. I didn't think atmospheric pressure alone could do that, so of course I came looking here. New sending unit was installed (OEM part). The steering wheel still mostly blocks my view of it, but now I have a functioning gauge.
#119
Race Car
Also if you want the correct torque on the sender like I did - you'll need to invest in a digital torque adaptor as standard torque wrenches can't measure torque in reverse.
30Nm is whats required.
30Nm is whats required.