808Bill
My kids are almost as old as you...I'm 84....but still out there in my 996...AND LOVING IT

 

Perfect, have one of them do it for you

Seriously though, if money's not an issue and you don't feel like doing it, don't...Aloha!

 

Unfortunately, one lives 3 hours away, and the other is a computer person and drives a Pontiac small SUV (ugly little POS), somehow he escaped the "car" gene...he couldn't car less about the "damn" things....
The part is on its way and I will have a "looks see"....my worry is that I get it out and then my back gives out.....flatbed to the shop.
Years ago who even thought that far ahead......

 

I'm sure you could find a member close by that might be willing to help. I would if I where close by! Some mechanics will come to you also.

 

Hey ANYONE??? Beer and burgers on me....
And, anyone in the Ft Lauderdale area...we host a PCA Happy Hour the 3rd Thursday of every month 5 to 8 pm MOJO restaurant on Federal Highway

 

I just replaced mine and it was so easy. I did not jack up the car or remove the rear wheel. Just remove the 2 10mm bolts to the spark plug heat shield and you have easy access to the oil pressure sensor from below. I used the recommended 19mm crows foot. Very easy DIY.

 

I used a Snap-On 19mm crows foot , 4" extension, stubby ratchet, Crows foor I bought off ebay for 8.00,
I did it from top only, I removed the airbox and 2 wires going to sender unit.
I think one key is crows foot needs to be think so it can get underneath sender head and top of motor block shell.

15 minutes start to finish.

78.00 repair w Porsche part and crows foot socket.

Pictures if needed.

 

No need for either. New part comes with a metal gasket.

 

There really is no need to get hung up on torque specs. Once the part is threaded in try to make sure it is facing the same way the old part was as much as you can and you should be good. There is a point where it will stop and will not be able to be threaded any further. Also note the final resting position may not be exactly as the old part was. And the connectors are simple and can not be messed up. One is thin and the other is thicker.

And I agree with the previous post regarding working from the top. Both ways are easy but from the top is much more easier and simpler.

 

Yes - for values of "think" that include "thin".

I had to grind my 19mm crowsfoot a bit to make it thin enough.

 

Same here.

See this post for photos: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15926731

 

I just replaced the oil sending unit on my car today after couple of unsuccessful attempts. My unit was tightly screwed and it was difficult to remove.

I would like to add couple of notes:

1. In order to access the unit from under the car, the spark plug shield must be removed. It is an aluminum cover held in place with 2 10 mm hex head screws.
2. The 19 mm crowfoot must be ground down to approximately 5 - 6 mm thickness in order to be able to squeeze it in there and get it onto the hex nut of the unit.
3. It is recommenced to have a helper who is going to hold the crowfoot in place tightly on the hex nut of the unit, from the top of the car, while another person will unscrew the hex nut of the unit from under the car. This way any slipping is going to be avoided.
4. Make sure you turn the ratchet in the Clockwise direction from under the car
5. Mount the new unit from the top of the car and tighten it with your hand as much as possible.
6. Do half more turn from under the car.
7. Do not over tighten the new unit.
8. Use the helper when tightening the new unit to hold the crowfoot in place

I hope this helps.

 

Glad I found this post. My oil pressure always showed top of the scale. One time I noticed that just turning on the key pegged the gauge to max. I didn't think atmospheric pressure alone could do that, so of course I came looking here. New sending unit was installed (OEM part). The steering wheel still mostly blocks my view of it, but now I have a functioning gauge.

 

Also if you want the correct torque on the sender like I did - you'll need to invest in a digital torque adaptor as standard torque wrenches can't measure torque in reverse.

30Nm is whats required.

 

A surprisingly useful item - IME much more so than a standard torque wrench.