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Oil pressure sender unit replacement - DIY

 
Old 08-12-2012, 03:43 PM
  #61  
Porsche31
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Thanks Van. I had no idea how intense 911 ownership was. What a roller coaster!
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:55 PM
  #62  
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Thanks Hibisa. Worked just perfect though it did take me two hours. Anyone going to do this out there, it is easy. I did it. Make your tool out of an old 19 with the notch as shown, that is the handle offset in the same direction. I did not use the exact tool depicted, just dremeled an old 19mm wrench. Also, please note the nuts on the top of the unit are 7mm. I could do this again in twenty minutes.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:05 PM
  #63  
Tim Wasmer
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Just did mine.

With the 19mm/(3/4) crows foot it took me longer to get the car in the air and wheel off than to take this out and replace it. Thanks for the DIY.

I also removed the spark plug shield (2 10mm bolts) to make it easier. Mie was on pretty tight and the swivel was not allowing enough torque.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:11 PM
  #64  
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Hi all. I'm getting ready to replace the sender myself. I went ahead and removed the rear wheel but taking the heat shield off is another story (it's like the easiest way to $2 million dollars: first, get a hold of a million dollars...). I'm going to try Dhar55's technique of manuevering the 19mm crowsfoot on the sensor. I take it all that required is removing the rear wheel.
Excuse the 944 pic. I have to replace it with the 996 pic soon.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:16 PM
  #65  
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The heat shield is just 2 10mm bolts. Use a small socket. Once broken loose they came out by hand. Also remember when you are under there to unscrew the sending unit in the opposite direction. Once I figured out I was turning the wrong way, my old unit was on plenty tight
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:45 AM
  #66  
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My 996 has the same classic symptoms...at first, an error message and no pressure (I checked for leaks, no leakage). second start up, needle hits max and stays there. When rpm drops to idle, pressure drops to 4.5 from 5 (max). I changed the oil pressure sender. Operation went well. I started up the car and no change, still maxed out. This is frustrating. What else could it be?
Sorry for the 944 pic guys, have not had a chance t change it to my 996 pic.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:53 AM
  #67  
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Huh?
On start up when the car is running at a higher idle the pressure will be up. Then drop to a lower level then idle comes down. Are you expecting the gauge to be at zero at idle?

PS: Takes 25 seconds to change your 944 Pic
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:55 AM
  #68  
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Cold startup idle at 5 is normal. After engine warms up, it should be around 2 at idle depending on the actual engine temp.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:05 AM
  #69  
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Btw, key ON engine OFF, pressure should show 0.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:28 AM
  #70  
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On the 5 bar scale, my oil pressure is at 5 at start up and drops only to 4.5 at idle after it has warmed up. It doesn't go below 4.5. This is after I put in the new oil pressure sender that I bought at the Porsche dealer. Before I replaced it, when it was working good, the oil pressure would settle in at bar 3. The oil level is is the proper level. No leaks. The only thing I have not done is taken the 996 out for an extended drive to see if it will sort itself out but that's like hoping for all the other teams to lose so your team makes the playoffs.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:48 AM
  #71  
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I just wanted to wrap up my issue on this forum with the oil pressure. After installing the new oil sensor, the needle was still maxed out a 5 bars all the time except at idle when it came down to 4.5, maybe. I was hesitant to drive it until I could feel confident I explored every source documenting the issue. Some had said it could be a clogged oil filter while another said it could be an malfunctioning oil pressure relief valve (I didn't know there was one). Before I started replacing components, I decided to drive to the dealer as is (7 miles) and monitor things closely. By the time I was half way there, the needle dropped back a bar and by the time I got to the dealer it was back to normal. The service manager said on new senders, sometimes the internal float needs time to adapt so its not unusal to require a few miles for normal operation. So, at least for me, case closed and things are back to normal (2.5 bars at idle and 4 bars, give or take at speed and acceleration).
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:57 PM
  #72  
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Anyone using teflon tape / thread sealer on the new replacement unit?
Is this a dunb question?
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:50 PM
  #73  
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You can get the Crows foot from harbor freight tools for 9.99, you get a set of them for that much. Save you some cash..but they are cheap. http://www.harborfreight.com/#
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:43 PM
  #74  
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Thanks to all that have posted here on the forums. You guys make it so easy to work on these cars.

Step 1: reach hand in and unplug wires
Step 2: Take off tire
Step 3: Take off spark plug shield (2 10mm bolts)
Step 4: with a 19mm crows foot wrench and a wobble extension, loosen sender
Step 5: reach in and unscrew/remove sender
Step 6: reach in with new sender in your hand and screw it in
Step 7: tighten new sender with 19mm crows foot wrench on a wobble extension
Step 8: connect wires (luckily they are different size plugs!)
Step 9: Replace spark plug shield (2 10mm bolts)
Step 10: Take for drive to test unit and look for leaks.
Step 11: Drink a Crown and Coke.


This was easier to do then installing a Double Din. That was nerve racking. Pull things off, cut stuff, drill holes, Grind things off or smooth... YIKES

Merry Christmas.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:19 PM
  #75  
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Guys,

Thanks for the run down. My motor is out for the coolant pipes. I will replace the sneding unit while I am in the neighborhood.
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