Ignition off -> Convertible light on
05-17-2009, 01:27 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ignition off -> Convertible light on
Just had my clutch swapped out, brake fluid flushed, and a detailing done (need to take pics).
Car comes back, and the "convertible light" is on solid when the ignition is off, and the light is off when the ignition is on. Also, the top won't budge...open or close...it doesn't even try (aka no flashing convertible light, nor codes).
I have a Durametric, and no codes from the convertible computer.
I also have a Smarttop, and Remotetop. Remotetop appears to be working as the horn sounds for locking the car.
I did search for this and couldn't find anything. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the smarttop and see if it is the problem. Reason is...I don't think "convertible light" on with the ignition off is normal Porsche behavior even in failure.
Anybody seen this problem?
Car comes back, and the "convertible light" is on solid when the ignition is off, and the light is off when the ignition is on. Also, the top won't budge...open or close...it doesn't even try (aka no flashing convertible light, nor codes).
I have a Durametric, and no codes from the convertible computer.
I also have a Smarttop, and Remotetop. Remotetop appears to be working as the horn sounds for locking the car.
I did search for this and couldn't find anything. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the smarttop and see if it is the problem. Reason is...I don't think "convertible light" on with the ignition off is normal Porsche behavior even in failure.
Anybody seen this problem?
05-17-2009, 10:52 AM
#3
First check the fuses. Second check the Smart Top module connection. If it comes loose it won't work. Third, could be the sensor...but it should show a fault??? Lastly disconnect the smart top. I have heard of issues with the remote top...but no advice on this.
05-17-2009, 05:38 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hi guys...thanks for the ideas.
I removed the Smarttop, and reconnected the wiring directly and sure enough, the light went away. Apparently it was the problem.
I read something about it being set pre-2004 or post-2004. I'm guessing maybe it somehow got set to post-2004. Pure speculation at the moment though.
If that indeed is the problem, I wish they just had set a dip-switch or something that we could permanently set instead of this software crap.
I'll keep you posted as I figure it out for any future searchers
.
I removed the Smarttop, and reconnected the wiring directly and sure enough, the light went away. Apparently it was the problem.
I read something about it being set pre-2004 or post-2004. I'm guessing maybe it somehow got set to post-2004. Pure speculation at the moment though.
If that indeed is the problem, I wish they just had set a dip-switch or something that we could permanently set instead of this software crap.
I'll keep you posted as I figure it out for any future searchers
.
05-18-2009, 10:05 PM
#6
Ive had two expereinces with after market top black boxes, both were negative.
One was installed easy to find the other one they hid way down in the harness, you know so none of those dealer techs would see it and think it was the problem. 7 hours later........... found the problem, cust decided he shouldnt have to pay anything since the car was under warrenty it didnt matter what he had put in. So I worked for free that day............... thats my feelings on black boxes
One was installed easy to find the other one they hid way down in the harness, you know so none of those dealer techs would see it and think it was the problem. 7 hours later........... found the problem, cust decided he shouldnt have to pay anything since the car was under warrenty it didnt matter what he had put in. So I worked for free that day............... thats my feelings on black boxes
05-19-2009, 04:28 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
That's a painful story 99firehawk. What was the box?
I read lots of positive things about the smarttop and remotetop. Functionality wise....the smarttop is sweet. The remotetop isn't perfect IMO....sometimes it stops midway during an open or close..not sure why.
Their customer service has been good so far. During the remotetop install I had issues, and Stephan was nice enough to send me a replacement and when I sorted it out, I sent the extra one back.
Right now the smarttop is on it's way to Wilhelmy. He said if it's fuse, it's free to fix (well I paid for shipping both ways). Otherwise...well...let's put it this way....I think expensive electronic equipment that just "fails" cuz it feels like it without being touched, or used, should be supported.
I read lots of positive things about the smarttop and remotetop. Functionality wise....the smarttop is sweet. The remotetop isn't perfect IMO....sometimes it stops midway during an open or close..not sure why.
Their customer service has been good so far. During the remotetop install I had issues, and Stephan was nice enough to send me a replacement and when I sorted it out, I sent the extra one back.
Right now the smarttop is on it's way to Wilhelmy. He said if it's fuse, it's free to fix (well I paid for shipping both ways). Otherwise...well...let's put it this way....I think expensive electronic equipment that just "fails" cuz it feels like it without being touched, or used, should be supported.
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05-31-2009, 06:23 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just to finish this off...
It was the SmartTop. Wilhelmy said the fuse was blow and a PCB trace was burnt due to an overvoltage condition. It was out of warrantee, but he fixed it free of charge. Put the fixed one back, and everything is as good as new.
However....
I believe the product should be more tolerant. A car alternator can easily spike to 18V here and there, and electronics need to be able to handle that.
Just my IMO.
Anyhow...any future searchers with the same problem..now you know what it is.
It was the SmartTop. Wilhelmy said the fuse was blow and a PCB trace was burnt due to an overvoltage condition. It was out of warrantee, but he fixed it free of charge. Put the fixed one back, and everything is as good as new.
However....
I believe the product should be more tolerant. A car alternator can easily spike to 18V here and there, and electronics need to be able to handle that.
Just my IMO.
Anyhow...any future searchers with the same problem..now you know what it is
.
04-20-2010, 08:42 PM
#9
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Location: los angeles, ca
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does anyone know where the smart top or other black boxes are usually installed? my light is stuck on and I just took the hard top off and the top wont close, I hear a noise (not grinding or anything), just like something is electronically trying to happen. I bought the car used 2001 cab, so I am wondering if the smarttop was previously installed and if I need to disconnect it, thanks
04-20-2010, 08:45 PM
#10
Poseur
Rennlist Member
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The Smart Top is installed in the back of the cabriolet top. To access you need to lower the top half way (roughly) and then disconnect the two rods (one on each side) so that you can push the rear part of the cab top up and out of your way to access the cabriolet electronics. It's in the firewall between the seat backs and the recess for the folded up cab top.
