JDSStudios

What makes the indy think the DME is bad?

Get the codes cleared. ABS and PSM come on if the throttle body needs cleaning- for example.
Have you tried clearing the codes?

ohioboxster

I'm glad they have a fix, guess I just mean if you could do an inexpensive fix that could last 7-10 years it would seem reasonable.

Kolshak

[QUOTE=JDSStudios;6546768]What makes the indy think the DME is bad?

Must have misspoke because I did clear the codes with enthusiast version of durametric after replacing MAF and 1266 & 409 are still present.
Not sure why he is so convinced DME is fried, but hopefully it is something like a dirty TB. You could be right because I'm running a K&N CAI and haven't cleaned TB in a while.

JDSStudios

[QUOTE=Kolshak;6547187]Ok, that makes sense, because I also had CEL and ABS on within a few seconds
from each other, and after cleaning the throttle body all is well, for several weeks.
Time it took the indy to clean the throttle body: 12 minutes

function12

I know there are ads in the PCA magazine that sell DMEs. I believe the can change the vin too.

Loren

I agree that you do not need a new DME.
Fix your ignition switch and then have the indie give you are MAF readings at idle and at 2500 RPM no load. Post them here.

By looking at the mixtures and the air flow over the MAF you should be able to tell (easily) if the DME and the MAF are working properly.

Tippy

Damn, Im jealous! You got 99firehawk and Loren on your case.

You should be in good hands.

Kolshak

Thanks guys. Got an email from Firehawk & after checking codes he now believes the DME is fried too. Indie is supposed to verify on Monday but I'll ask him to try Lorens suggestion.
FWIW - if it's toast, the best (i.e. least expensive) fix I've found is a company specializing in P-car DME rebuilds. They only mention 993 DMEs on their site but are updating it to include 996s. They quoted 1300 for new (I'll pass on that because dealer is 1037) and 650 for rebuild.



http://www.ecudoctors.com/home_process.html

Todd Holyoak

If you want a used one I have one with the programming codes so it can be programmed to work in your car. If you provide me with the codes for your car I can even provide it to you as a plug and play solution. $350 + shipping.

-Todd

Kolshak

You, my friend, have a deal.
I'll get back to you tomorrow when it's verified mine is cooked.
How do I get the codes for my car?

JDSStudios

I would really really really like to know why the DME would be fried (maybe because I studied electronics
for many years). It would be interesting to know exactly which component "fried".
Perhaps you could ask whoever troubleshot it?

Kolshak

I'm interested too but for other reasons besides studying electronics. The only theory so far was a voltage spike. Because of how it happened (engine cut out immediately when car hit ~ 7400 RPMS) I thought it had something to do with the softronic flash (which raised the redline) but the mechanic & folks at softronic say it's not the cause. I don't understand the implications but before the flash I'd hit the stock rev limiter many times without incident.

JDSStudios

It sounds like bad programming.
You are right, you should be able to redline all day long, without damaging
a DME (which is an EPROM I believe).

What exactly is it NOT doing now?
Does it not accept an original OEM re-flash?

Kolshak

ABS, PSM & CEl lights are on and I couldn't flash it back to stock.
Softronic & mechanic say the new program couldn't have caused the voltage spike. I don't understand enough about the implications of flashing & programing to know why.

Borntovin

I know its a old thread, I am in a similar situation. Wanted to check how much it cost you to replace the DME and if it resolved the issues that you were having. Especially the performance of the car and did PSM error disappear?