996 Reliability (with a Battery Replacement Sidebar)
04-06-2009 | 04:36 PM
#1
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, British Columbia
996 Reliability (with a Battery Replacement Sidebar)
Former member, long-time lurker. Cannot be bothered to learn how to load photos (flame away). Thought I would put out a "good news" message, to counter the many newbie's who find Rennlist only to launch a crusade against 996's.
Bought my 2001 Carrera Cabriolet in 2006 from a high-volume used car wholesaler. The 911 had 50,000 miles on it, and was ex-lease out of California. Got the PPI from a Bellvue, WA independent who was recommended by a Seattle PCA member, who I cold-called using a number off the internet. Imported it and drove it as a daily driver (70 km a day round trip) until the fall of 2008. Mounted winter tires, and drove it in the snow (well, the couple of weeks a year Vancouver gets snow). The car now has close to 80,000 miles on it, and gets used slightly less, as I bought a second car.
The 2001 996 has been WAY less expensive to maintain than my last two BMW E36's. I replaced the alternator and battery upon purchase, as both tested as bad in the PPI. Replaced the convertible top in the spring of 2008. I use the factory-recommended Mobil 1 oil. I use a good independent mechanic for maintenance, not the dealer. YMMV, but the 996, given its depreciation curve, is the only "semi-exotic" car you can drive every day for the price of a Honda.
No RMS problems. No IMS problems. Car has its original engine and tranny. When problems do arise (and they will, it's a well-used sports car), I will repair her and not whine - she has been a great car.
Signed on to Rennlist yesterday for the first time in almost a year, to look up info on the battery for the 996. The Porsche battery I had paid good money for in 2006 was testing as "weak". Found out on Rennlist that I had been "Molled" (a nice play another Rennlister had on the name of the Porsche battery manufacturer). Bought a Sears Diehard "Group 48" model battery, based on Rennlist comments. Fit perfectly, down to the vent tube hole (the battery is not as long as the OEM, but there is a bolt hole for that size). As recommended in another posting, I used a cigarette-lighter battery charger to keep juice in the system while I installed the new battery (taped the charger into the lighter socket, as recommended in yet another post). The whole job took maybe 10 minutes, including the time to find the right sockets in my garage. Worked like a charm. No loss of radio codes, no computer reset. Starts without hesitation now. Thank you Rennlist.
My thanks go out to the many members of this forum who contribute their time and knowledge to the 996 community (in gota911's case, even after he sold his Porsche!).
To all of those who stumble across this posting while thinking of whether to buy that high-mileage 996, I suggest you sift through this forum, read the September 2008 Excellence magazine article on the M96 block, and then cruise through similar forums for M3's and AMG's. And then Google "Toyota engine oil sludging". A small percentage of all cars have issues. Sports cars tend to attract the passionate. It's hard when the car you have lusted after lets you down. But great reward does not come without risk. Do your research. Get a PPI. And make the jump. For every person whose chute didn't open, there are tens of thousands who are having the time of their life.
And when the Canuck buck gets back above 90 cents US, I'll be back below the 49th looking for a 996 Turbo or GT3, and lurking in those Rennlist forums.
And, yes, I will get around to sending in my membership renewal fee.
I now retreat back to my lurkers lair.
Bought my 2001 Carrera Cabriolet in 2006 from a high-volume used car wholesaler. The 911 had 50,000 miles on it, and was ex-lease out of California. Got the PPI from a Bellvue, WA independent who was recommended by a Seattle PCA member, who I cold-called using a number off the internet. Imported it and drove it as a daily driver (70 km a day round trip) until the fall of 2008. Mounted winter tires, and drove it in the snow (well, the couple of weeks a year Vancouver gets snow). The car now has close to 80,000 miles on it, and gets used slightly less, as I bought a second car.
The 2001 996 has been WAY less expensive to maintain than my last two BMW E36's. I replaced the alternator and battery upon purchase, as both tested as bad in the PPI. Replaced the convertible top in the spring of 2008. I use the factory-recommended Mobil 1 oil. I use a good independent mechanic for maintenance, not the dealer. YMMV, but the 996, given its depreciation curve, is the only "semi-exotic" car you can drive every day for the price of a Honda.
No RMS problems. No IMS problems. Car has its original engine and tranny. When problems do arise (and they will, it's a well-used sports car), I will repair her and not whine - she has been a great car.
Signed on to Rennlist yesterday for the first time in almost a year, to look up info on the battery for the 996. The Porsche battery I had paid good money for in 2006 was testing as "weak". Found out on Rennlist that I had been "Molled" (a nice play another Rennlister had on the name of the Porsche battery manufacturer). Bought a Sears Diehard "Group 48" model battery, based on Rennlist comments. Fit perfectly, down to the vent tube hole (the battery is not as long as the OEM, but there is a bolt hole for that size). As recommended in another posting, I used a cigarette-lighter battery charger to keep juice in the system while I installed the new battery (taped the charger into the lighter socket, as recommended in yet another post). The whole job took maybe 10 minutes, including the time to find the right sockets in my garage. Worked like a charm. No loss of radio codes, no computer reset. Starts without hesitation now. Thank you Rennlist.
My thanks go out to the many members of this forum who contribute their time and knowledge to the 996 community (in gota911's case, even after he sold his Porsche!).
To all of those who stumble across this posting while thinking of whether to buy that high-mileage 996, I suggest you sift through this forum, read the September 2008 Excellence magazine article on the M96 block, and then cruise through similar forums for M3's and AMG's. And then Google "Toyota engine oil sludging". A small percentage of all cars have issues. Sports cars tend to attract the passionate. It's hard when the car you have lusted after lets you down. But great reward does not come without risk. Do your research. Get a PPI. And make the jump. For every person whose chute didn't open, there are tens of thousands who are having the time of their life.
And when the Canuck buck gets back above 90 cents US, I'll be back below the 49th looking for a 996 Turbo or GT3, and lurking in those Rennlist forums.
And, yes, I will get around to sending in my membership renewal fee.
I now retreat back to my lurkers lair.
04-06-2009 | 04:40 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,736
Likes: 37
Former member, long-time lurker. Cannot be bothered to learn how to load photos (flame away). Thought I would put out a "good news" message, to counter the many newbie's who find Rennlist only to launch a crusade against 996's.
Bought my 2001 Carrera Cabriolet in 2006 from a high-volume used car wholesaler. The 911 had 50,000 miles on it, and was ex-lease out of California. Got the PPI from a Bellvue, WA independent who was recommended by a Seattle PCA member, who I cold-called using a number off the internet. Imported it and drove it as a daily driver (70 km a day round trip) until the fall of 2008. Mounted winter tires, and drove it in the snow (well, the couple of weeks a year Vancouver gets snow). The car now has close to 80,000 miles on it, and gets used slightly less, as I bought a second car.
The 2001 996 has been WAY less expensive to maintain than my last two BMW E36's. I replaced the alternator and battery upon purchase, as both tested as bad in the PPI. Replaced the convertible top in the spring of 2008. I use the factory-recommended Mobil 1 oil. I use a good independent mechanic for maintenance, not the dealer. YMMV, but the 996, given its depreciation curve, is the only "semi-exotic" car you can drive every day for the price of a Honda.
No RMS problems. No IMS problems. Car has its original engine and tranny. When problems do arise (and they will, it's a well-used sports car), I will repair her and not whine - she has been a great car.
Signed on to Rennlist yesterday for the first time in almost a year, to look up info on the battery for the 996. The Porsche battery I had paid good money for in 2006 was testing as "weak". Found out on Rennlist that I had been "Molled" (a nice play another Rennlister had on the name of the Porsche battery manufacturer). Bought a Sears Diehard "Group 48" model battery, based on Rennlist comments. Fit perfectly, down to the vent tube hole (the battery is not as long as the OEM, but there is a bolt hole for that size). As recommended in another posting, I used a cigarette-lighter battery charger to keep juice in the system while I installed the new battery (taped the charger into the lighter socket, as recommended in yet another post). The whole job took maybe 10 minutes, including the time to find the right sockets in my garage. Worked like a charm. No loss of radio codes, no computer reset. Starts without hesitation now. Thank you Rennlist.
My thanks go out to the many members of this forum who contribute their time and knowledge to the 996 community (in gota911's case, even after he sold his Porsche!).
To all of those who stumble across this posting while thinking of whether to buy that high-mileage 996, I suggest you sift through this forum, read the September 2008 Excellence magazine article on the M96 block, and then cruise through similar forums for M3's and AMG's. And then Google "Toyota engine oil sludging". A small percentage of all cars have issues. Sports cars tend to attract the passionate. It's hard when the car you have lusted after lets you down. But great reward does not come without risk. Do your research. Get a PPI. And make the jump. For every person whose chute didn't open, there are tens of thousands who are having the time of their life.
And when the Canuck buck gets back above 90 cents US, I'll be back below the 49th looking for a 996 Turbo or GT3, and lurking in those Rennlist forums.
And, yes, I will get around to sending in my membership renewal fee.
I now retreat back to my lurkers lair.
Bought my 2001 Carrera Cabriolet in 2006 from a high-volume used car wholesaler. The 911 had 50,000 miles on it, and was ex-lease out of California. Got the PPI from a Bellvue, WA independent who was recommended by a Seattle PCA member, who I cold-called using a number off the internet. Imported it and drove it as a daily driver (70 km a day round trip) until the fall of 2008. Mounted winter tires, and drove it in the snow (well, the couple of weeks a year Vancouver gets snow). The car now has close to 80,000 miles on it, and gets used slightly less, as I bought a second car.
The 2001 996 has been WAY less expensive to maintain than my last two BMW E36's. I replaced the alternator and battery upon purchase, as both tested as bad in the PPI. Replaced the convertible top in the spring of 2008. I use the factory-recommended Mobil 1 oil. I use a good independent mechanic for maintenance, not the dealer. YMMV, but the 996, given its depreciation curve, is the only "semi-exotic" car you can drive every day for the price of a Honda.
No RMS problems. No IMS problems. Car has its original engine and tranny. When problems do arise (and they will, it's a well-used sports car), I will repair her and not whine - she has been a great car.
Signed on to Rennlist yesterday for the first time in almost a year, to look up info on the battery for the 996. The Porsche battery I had paid good money for in 2006 was testing as "weak". Found out on Rennlist that I had been "Molled" (a nice play another Rennlister had on the name of the Porsche battery manufacturer). Bought a Sears Diehard "Group 48" model battery, based on Rennlist comments. Fit perfectly, down to the vent tube hole (the battery is not as long as the OEM, but there is a bolt hole for that size). As recommended in another posting, I used a cigarette-lighter battery charger to keep juice in the system while I installed the new battery (taped the charger into the lighter socket, as recommended in yet another post). The whole job took maybe 10 minutes, including the time to find the right sockets in my garage. Worked like a charm. No loss of radio codes, no computer reset. Starts without hesitation now. Thank you Rennlist.
My thanks go out to the many members of this forum who contribute their time and knowledge to the 996 community (in gota911's case, even after he sold his Porsche!).
To all of those who stumble across this posting while thinking of whether to buy that high-mileage 996, I suggest you sift through this forum, read the September 2008 Excellence magazine article on the M96 block, and then cruise through similar forums for M3's and AMG's. And then Google "Toyota engine oil sludging". A small percentage of all cars have issues. Sports cars tend to attract the passionate. It's hard when the car you have lusted after lets you down. But great reward does not come without risk. Do your research. Get a PPI. And make the jump. For every person whose chute didn't open, there are tens of thousands who are having the time of their life.
And when the Canuck buck gets back above 90 cents US, I'll be back below the 49th looking for a 996 Turbo or GT3, and lurking in those Rennlist forums.
And, yes, I will get around to sending in my membership renewal fee.
I now retreat back to my lurkers lair.
-td
