Which coilover, x74, H&R, PSS9/10, KW V3 lowers the car the least
#31
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george996, that is good info ... If i remember correctly the Porsche X74 front camber spec is 0.4 negative +/ 0.1, For the street I don't think you"ll want to run more than 0.5 negative in the front. I run 0.5 in the front and 1.5 negative on the rear, X74 ride height is the same as GT3 ....
Last edited by george996; 10-11-2013 at 06:35 PM.
#32
Race Car
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Can you tell me what the X74 spring rate is? Many of us tried very hard to find this info and were never able to come up with a value. There's no denying that the X74 is stiffer than PSS9 but that could all be in the damper.
Andy
Andy
#33
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Why is everyone so afraid of negative camber? Increasing negative camber in many cases is good as it helps corning. With regards to tire wear negative camber and toe cause increase tire wear. Why not just go zero to and solve that issue. You'll also have a better handling car and crisper turn in.
I just think it's a bit funny that .5-1 degree of front camber is nothing, my first p car had well over 2 degrees but zero toe and had no adverse or accelerated wear. I ran -3.4 in the front end of my BMW and -2.4 in the rear (zero toe in the front and 1/8th toe rear) with no negative effect on tire wear. Wet traction was a different story. LOL
I come from the autocross side of the hobby but do a few track days a year and found the more aggressive setup is fantastic. It's kind of funny, but with my current car (stock), I'm not a fan of it's "street/factory" alignment as it's no where near as crisp as my first 996 (which was set up nicely). I can't wait to go back to my old cars settings. The only real negative with more aggressive setups in my experience, is the car can feel a bit darty on the street which requires a bit more focus to drive. I'm used to it but others may not be.
I just think it's a bit funny that .5-1 degree of front camber is nothing, my first p car had well over 2 degrees but zero toe and had no adverse or accelerated wear. I ran -3.4 in the front end of my BMW and -2.4 in the rear (zero toe in the front and 1/8th toe rear) with no negative effect on tire wear. Wet traction was a different story. LOL
I come from the autocross side of the hobby but do a few track days a year and found the more aggressive setup is fantastic. It's kind of funny, but with my current car (stock), I'm not a fan of it's "street/factory" alignment as it's no where near as crisp as my first 996 (which was set up nicely). I can't wait to go back to my old cars settings. The only real negative with more aggressive setups in my experience, is the car can feel a bit darty on the street which requires a bit more focus to drive. I'm used to it but others may not be.
#34
Race Car
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+1 Pete, Couldn't agree with you more. Even for a car that's 95% street why not improve the handling characteristics of the car all the time if you can.
-1.5 degrees all the way around (if you can get it at the front) is a great setup on street tires and a dream to drive. Keep front toe to a minimum and you won't know the difference in tire wear.
-1.5 degrees all the way around (if you can get it at the front) is a great setup on street tires and a dream to drive. Keep front toe to a minimum and you won't know the difference in tire wear.
Why is everyone so afraid of negative camber? Increasing negative camber in many cases is good as it helps corning. With regards to tire wear negative camber and toe cause increase tire wear. Why not just go zero to and solve that issue. You'll also have a better handling car and crisper turn in.
I just think it's a bit funny that .5-1 degree of front camber is nothing, my first p car had well over 2 degrees but zero toe and had no adverse or accelerated wear. I ran -3.4 in the front end of my BMW and -2.4 in the rear (zero toe in the front and 1/8th toe rear) with no negative effect on tire wear. Wet traction was a different story. LOL
I come from the autocross side of the hobby but do a few track days a year and found the more aggressive setup is fantastic. It's kind of funny, but with my current car (stock), I'm not a fan of it's "street/factory" alignment as it's no where near as crisp as my first 996 (which was set up nicely). I can't wait to go back to my old cars settings. The only real negative with more aggressive setups in my experience, is the car can feel a bit darty on the street which requires a bit more focus to drive. I'm used to it but others may not be.
I just think it's a bit funny that .5-1 degree of front camber is nothing, my first p car had well over 2 degrees but zero toe and had no adverse or accelerated wear. I ran -3.4 in the front end of my BMW and -2.4 in the rear (zero toe in the front and 1/8th toe rear) with no negative effect on tire wear. Wet traction was a different story. LOL
I come from the autocross side of the hobby but do a few track days a year and found the more aggressive setup is fantastic. It's kind of funny, but with my current car (stock), I'm not a fan of it's "street/factory" alignment as it's no where near as crisp as my first 996 (which was set up nicely). I can't wait to go back to my old cars settings. The only real negative with more aggressive setups in my experience, is the car can feel a bit darty on the street which requires a bit more focus to drive. I'm used to it but others may not be.
#35
Burning Brakes
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George, thanks for the pics! Nice. X74 sways are the same as M030, which I've already installed. Stiffer sways mean less roll, which means more even distribution, so more negative camber makes sense. I don't understand why a stiffer spring rate "allows" more negative camber. Stiffer means less travel, I don't see the correlation, but I'm sure no expert. I didn't mean to imply I want a stock C2 street alignment, I was referring to an X74 alignment, which has a more performance lean to it. There is most definitely a more squirrelly feel to the front end with 0 camber, vs even a little neg camber, based on cars I have driven, just going straight, never mind cornering. I agree that -.5 - -1 is no big deal, and since you always eat the rears WAY before the fronts, this can allow easier justification to replace all 4 tires at the same time. Of course if you love the rubber you've got and can get a 2 rear for every front, then that may change. As long as -1 doesn't affect wet weather driving, then I see no reason not to do it, IMHO.
#36
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George, thanks for the pics! Nice. X74 sways are the same as M030, which I've already installed. Stiffer sways mean less roll, which means more even distribution, so more negative camber makes sense. I don't understand why a stiffer spring rate "allows" more negative camber. Stiffer means less travel, I don't see the correlation, but I'm sure no expert. I didn't mean to imply I want a stock C2 street alignment, I was referring to an X74 alignment, which has a more performance lean to it. There is most definitely a more squirrelly feel to the front end with 0 camber, vs even a little neg camber, based on cars I have driven, just going straight, never mind cornering. I agree that -.5 - -1 is no big deal, and since you always eat the rears WAY before the fronts, this can allow easier justification to replace all 4 tires at the same time. Of course if you love the rubber you've got and can get a 2 rear for every front, then that may change. As long as -1 doesn't affect wet weather driving, then I see no reason not to do it, IMHO.
Your point about replacing all 4 tires at once was my thinking too.
#37
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Andy,
Unfortunately I do not know x74 spring rates. I do know from installing both, the x74 free length is shorter than the pss9's and compresses less from the weight of the vehicle.
#38
Burning Brakes
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Yes, that makes a lot more sense...you will maintain that benefit of the negative camber in a corner instead of losing it to body roll from increased suspension travel. Also agree that I wouldn't optimizie for tire wear on a 911, but for the performance parameters that I want for my use of the car. It's not my dailey driver interstate car. Tires usually last longer than I want to based on my 4 -6k miles per year. Pretty much everyone agrees that the PSS9s will provide a more supple ride initially, which is that inital compression of the helper spring and inital load of the normal spring. As you probably know the M030 ARBs are ~25% stiffer rear and ~10% front...not much really, but it should help the understeer considerably. It yields noticeably less lean, and decreased understeer, but not anything eye-popping as far as I've been able to tell. Honestly, I expected more based on others posts.
#39
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Yes, that makes a lot more sense...you will maintain that benefit of the negative camber in a corner instead of losing it to body roll from increased suspension travel. Also agree that I wouldn't optimizie for tire wear on a 911, but for the performance parameters that I want for my use of the car. It's not my dailey driver interstate car. Tires usually last longer than I want to based on my 4 -6k miles per year. Pretty much everyone agrees that the PSS9s will provide a more supple ride initially, which is that inital compression of the helper spring and inital load of the normal spring. As you probably know the M030 ARBs are ~25% stiffer rear and ~10% front...not much really, but it should help the understeer considerably. It yields noticeably less lean, and decreased understeer, but not anything eye-popping as far as I've been able to tell. Honestly, I expected more based on others posts.
#40
Burning Brakes
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Well that would make sense. The old OEM struts yield more suspensionmovement & body roll, which has the effect of pre-loading the ARBs. The much stiffer springs and compression of the PSS9s reduce same, so the old ARBs act softer. This would definitely be more noticeable when autoxing because of the constant sharp radius reversals.
#41
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My front bumper is only 5.75" off the ground now. With the driveways, speedbumps etc. in CO, if I lower it much more I'll be scraping more then I already am. I now am going sideways at those locations as is. I want to upgrade my suspension with coilovers, I track my car 1-2 times per month. This is the main reason to upgrade. I already have GT3 sways and adjustable droplinks. Thanks a lot.
mine is 25inch all around ....and front lip also 5.75inch from ground....anything lower will probably compromise the ride.........
#42
Burning Brakes
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You front lip is 5.75 from ground? Are you sure? Mine is about 8", stock front bumper and struts at 26 1/2" all around. I know the turbo bumper has less protrusion (flatter nose) and is lower, I just never realized it was that much more. Dang!
Last edited by perryinva; 04-14-2009 at 02:10 PM.
#43
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You front lip is 5.75 from ground? Are you sure? Mine is about the same, stock front bumper and struts at 26 1/2" all around. I know the turbo bumper has less protrusion (flatter nose) which means it has effectively more clearance, I just never realized it was that much more. Dang!
#44
Burning Brakes
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Wow! When I install my PSS9s in June, I'm planning on dropping 3/4 to 7/8", which would get me to about 7" or so, which is as low as I can get and still have 1/4" to clear on my steep driveway. You must hit everything!
Last edited by perryinva; 04-14-2009 at 02:11 PM.
#45
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Well that would make sense. The old OEM struts yield more suspensionmovement & body roll, which has the effect of pre-loading the ARBs. The much stiffer springs and compression of the PSS9s reduce same, so the old ARBs act softer. This would definitely be more noticeable when autoxing because of the constant sharp radius reversals.
Last edited by george996; 04-14-2009 at 01:20 AM.