nc911

Folks,

For those of you who have replaced cracked coil packs, did you replace all of them or only the cracked ones?

I believe I need to replace one of mine (not sure which one yet). Just like to get your take on whether to replace all or just the one. I suppose if one is cracked on my 2001 P-car, the others could be (or soon will be) cracking as well?

Thanks,

onefastviking

I have done it both ways for customers. Usually there is another coil pak or two shortly to go bad behind the other one. Replace one coil pak and then you have the hassle factor of dealing with another failure down the road. Replace all coil paks and you are done and good for another 100,000 miles or so, more expensive the 2nd way, more hassle the 1st way. Your choice.
Scan tool will tell you which cyl misfired and lead you to which coil/coils need to be replaced.

ivangene

what makes you think they (it) needs replacing

Dave!

I recently had one switched out--kicking myself for not doing it at home but was in a bind--and the mechanic recommends that they be changed out as problems arise. Of course he may just be saying that because he gets more labor, but that seems to be the mind-set.

Besides, they're pretty easy to replace at home. Just pop off the wheel and switch it out.

Ubermensch

Four of my six had cracks and required replacement so I just went with a full set.

onefastviking

You don't have to take off a wheel, jack up car,using all the normal precautions, remove heat shield (8mm bolts I believe) covering coilpacks, two bolts hold on each coil pak, replace as needed.

insite

out of curiosity, where do the cracks form? i have a misfire code stating an error w/ #6. i pulled the coil & followed the testing procedure (0.3 - 0.7 ohms at 20C) and it was within spec. visually, it looked fine. i pulled the plug & it looks ok, too.

my gut tells me these things are shot w/ 140k on them. i think there is a world of difference between teh test condition (stable & stationary at 20C) versus driving conditions (vibrating & high lat G's at 150C).

Ubermensch

Insite, you're right on target. I'll look to see if I have pictures of the cracks, but I recall them running along the top and sides of the main body. I had similar misfire codes (2 cylinders). I figured it was plugs but when I was replacing them I noticed four of the coils were cracked. I replaced all the plugs and kept the same packs. When I started it up I got misfires on all four coils corresponding to the cracks. I replaced all six coils and it ran like a top. That was at about 55k miles/4-5 years old.

Dave!

I've just heard it's easier to do with the wheel off, especially the coils at the rear.

insite

wow; so at going on 9 yrs old / 140k miles, mine are probably long overdue! thanks.

onefastviking

Ok, I didn't see a need to take it off, but it's easy enough to do.

onefastviking

Heat really kills them which can mean different time and or miles depending on the various conditions the car has lived thru. I would wait until one goes bad, it will throw a check engine light and then you can replace one or all at that time.

nc911

Thanks for all the tips and feedback guys!

dkem7

What is the procedure for the coil test referred to?

FLY996

Should do them all at once and be done with it...