What to do when your 996 is worthless? Upgrade!
01-08-2009, 01:37 AM
#46
Racer
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01-08-2009, 02:15 AM
#47
Racer
01-08-2009, 02:55 AM
#48
with poopie color interiors (wonder how big hit the re-sale value takes for that color combination??)
01-08-2009, 10:27 AM
#49
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01-08-2009, 10:49 AM
#50
Three Wheelin'
Guys, this isn't a 'what do you think of my bumper' thread; it's a 'look at what it takes to get this bumper fitted to my car and properly painted' thread. We're getting some really good info here. Stop spoiling it with opinionated comments that Salayc clearly doesn't care about since he has ALREADY opted to move forward with the mod. And believe me, I'm all for personal opinions, but it's clogging up the flow of the info here. I think there's a 10W-40 vs 20W-50 thread that will interest some of you a lot more. If that doesn't do it, do a search on "MAF sensor AND cold air intake".
01-08-2009, 11:00 AM
#51
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01-08-2009, 11:34 AM
#52
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The first coat is the base coat. This is an acetone based paint (lacquer) so coats will burn in. When spraying without a booth, this becomes invaluable. Any errors can be fixed with a quick touchup that will burn in. I am spraying a single component base coat which is 741 black with a reducer. The reducer is the solvent so the paint can be sold under VOC laws with the reducer added later.
Because I am spraying without a spray booth, I like to sand the basecoat to leave a perfect surface for the clear.
If dirt must be removed, areas 4" or smaller may be wet sanded with P600 or finer. Sanded areas MUST be recoated with basecoat color before clear coating.
Just to be a picture *****, here's Dupont ChromaBase applied to the nose of my Factory Five Cobra (in a backyard booth):
and the Dupont ChromaClear. Clear is the challenge. You need just enough material to "flow" so you don't spend your whole life sanding but not so much that you get runs and sags, which are a real PITA to clean up w/o removing too much material. It's a real balancing act. I've walked out of the booth thinking "perfect", only to find a 6" sag line 20 minutes later.
Last edited by mfennell; 01-08-2009 at 11:53 AM. Reason: details
01-08-2009, 07:24 PM
#53
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Thread Starter
I'm not so sure. The MSDS doesn't list acetone and Sherwin Williams associates a "unique state of the art resin technology" with the Ultra 7000 line, which doesn't sound much like lacquer to me.
I don't think this is a good idea in the long run. I'm no expert for sure but everything I've read about basecoat/clearcoat has been "don't sand between color and clear".
I also found that basecoats flash over so quickly that dust and drips weren't a big problem. SW seems to offer a range of products to mix the paint with depending on temperature and desired drying times. Maybe an alternate reducer would have helped the dripping basecoat.
Just to be a picture *****, here's Dupont ChromaBase applied to the nose of my Factory Five Cobra (in a backyard booth):
and the Dupont ChromaClear. Clear is the challenge. You need just enough material to "flow" so you don't spend your whole life sanding but not so much that you get runs and sags, which are a real PITA to clean up w/o removing too much material. It's a real balancing act. I've walked out of the booth thinking "perfect", only to find a 6" sag line 20 minutes later.
and the Dupont ChromaClear. Clear is the challenge. You need just enough material to "flow" so you don't spend your whole life sanding but not so much that you get runs and sags, which are a real PITA to clean up w/o removing too much material. It's a real balancing act. I've walked out of the booth thinking "perfect", only to find a 6" sag line 20 minutes later.
01-09-2009, 11:36 AM
#54
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I shot clear two ways: very light tack coat, followed by two heavier coats or simply two heavier coats. In both cases, I waited until they flashed over (not sticky to the touch) before proceeding. This was on the advice of the professional painter who ran a votech class I took and was consistent with the recommendations of Dupont for the ChromaClear I was using. Note that Dupont insists you must apply the clear within 24 hours or you have to reapply base. In practice, by the time you've cleaned your gun and mixed up some clear, you're ready to tack it off and shoot.
Interestingly, I used a turbine too. A 4 stage Citation with integrated respirator. You can't control air but the gun allowed paint flow and fan changes and (of course) different tips. IIRC, I used a 1.5 for color/clear, a 1.8 for Dupont URO (a primer/sealer) and a 2.0 for Feather Fill (a buiding primer).
Although I painted the Cobra, the next time I needed something done, I did all the prep and prime but paid my friend Eric to shoot the color/clear in the heated downdraft booth where he worked. He's good enough that when you drive out, you're done - at least to OEM orange peel standards. When I finish painting, I'm still only half way done.
For the bored, the following covers most of my painting fun:
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra35/
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra37/
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra38/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/fennell18/cobra39
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra40/
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra41/
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra42/
http://home.comcast.net/~fennell18/cobra43/
01-09-2009, 10:31 PM
#56
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Thread Starter
I shot clear two ways: very light tack coat, followed by two heavier coats or simply two heavier coats. In both cases, I waited until they flashed over (not sticky to the touch) before proceeding. This was on the advice of the professional painter who ran a votech class I took and was consistent with the recommendations of Dupont for the ChromaClear I was using.
Note that Dupont insists you must apply the clear within 24 hours or you have to reapply base. In practice, by the time you've cleaned your gun and mixed up some clear, you're ready to tack it off and shoot.
Interestingly, I used a turbine too. A 4 stage Citation with integrated respirator. You can't control air but the gun allowed paint flow and fan changes and (of course) different tips. IIRC, I used a 1.5 for color/clear, a 1.8 for Dupont URO (a primer/sealer) and a 2.0 for Feather Fill (a buiding primer).
Although I painted the Cobra, the next time I needed something done, I did all the prep and prime but paid my friend Eric to shoot the color/clear in the heated downdraft booth where he worked. He's good enough that when you drive out, you're done - at least to OEM orange peel standards. When I finish painting, I'm still only half way done.
On my wife's Cayenne, the paint has heavy orange peel, but I have seen factory shots of blocking and color sanding Carreras. To me, my Carrera paint looks better than Ferraris I have seen.
For the bored, the following covers most of my painting fun:
01-10-2009, 10:29 AM
#57
Addict
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Keep up the pics and ignore the dicks !
01-15-2009, 07:04 PM
#58
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Thread Starter
Color sand and buff
Moving right along:
The paint is leveled with 400 to remove orange peel. I use 800 next followed by 1500 sanding with a foam flexible block and plenty of water. Not many body shops use this, but I like Mirka Abralon for color sanding. This is a flexible wet sandpaper on a foam back that fits on a 6" sander. It's great for removing fine scratches. I also use the stuff on cars every couple of years when detailing. It's actually easier to control sandpaper than a buffer when removing paint scratches. A buffer tends to heat up the paint and burn through while wet sanding is more predictable.
The idea during this phase to to level, then remove the scratches from the leveling with finer and finer sandpaper until you are left with a smooth matte surface with 1500 grit or greater scratches. It is at 1500grit or above that a buffer and rubbing compound will easily polish the paint.
The biggest problem with wet sanding is the water masking what your are trying to remove. i.e. the water acts like a clear coat so it is impossible to see the scratches that are left behind. Experience is important here, however when in doubt, polish an area, and if you see scratches, go back and sand again. When a paper has done it's job, it easily glides across the paint. When there is still sanding to do, the paper binds a bit. With a little practice, it's obvious when it's time to move up to the next grit of paper.
Here's the bumper ready for polish:
Leave the Porter Cables at home, polishing paint requires horsepower. I use a 7" rotary buffer with a synthetic wool pad and 3m rubbing compound as the first step.
And here is the bumper after the first pass. No orange peel or waviness in sight.
Next, the bumper gets fit for a final polish and I get to work on the grill.
The paint is leveled with 400 to remove orange peel. I use 800 next followed by 1500 sanding with a foam flexible block and plenty of water. Not many body shops use this, but I like Mirka Abralon for color sanding. This is a flexible wet sandpaper on a foam back that fits on a 6" sander. It's great for removing fine scratches. I also use the stuff on cars every couple of years when detailing. It's actually easier to control sandpaper than a buffer when removing paint scratches. A buffer tends to heat up the paint and burn through while wet sanding is more predictable.
The idea during this phase to to level, then remove the scratches from the leveling with finer and finer sandpaper until you are left with a smooth matte surface with 1500 grit or greater scratches. It is at 1500grit or above that a buffer and rubbing compound will easily polish the paint.
The biggest problem with wet sanding is the water masking what your are trying to remove. i.e. the water acts like a clear coat so it is impossible to see the scratches that are left behind. Experience is important here, however when in doubt, polish an area, and if you see scratches, go back and sand again. When a paper has done it's job, it easily glides across the paint. When there is still sanding to do, the paper binds a bit. With a little practice, it's obvious when it's time to move up to the next grit of paper.
Here's the bumper ready for polish:
Leave the Porter Cables at home, polishing paint requires horsepower. I use a 7" rotary buffer with a synthetic wool pad and 3m rubbing compound as the first step.
And here is the bumper after the first pass. No orange peel or waviness in sight.
Next, the bumper gets fit for a final polish and I get to work on the grill.
01-15-2009, 07:52 PM
#59
Good job on keeping the car!
Anyone have a finished pic of this bumper on the car? It does look rather large but it might be the paint. If it were me Id shave down those saber tooth fangs on the front.
Anyone have a finished pic of this bumper on the car? It does look rather large but it might be the paint. If it were me Id shave down those saber tooth fangs on the front.
