Dale Gribble

deckman,
there's lots of grommets you should be able to run the wires thru without poking fresh holes in your car.

maci911

RMR-C450 PHANTOM R*DAR L*SER J**MER DETECTOR

eDoug

Wow! I've always heard and read that Rocky Mountain Radar products are as useless as paperweights....

Can't take pics now - work's got me too busy - but it's not a terrible process - I wired it into the phone connector in the center stack - and I actually drilled a new hole into the plug for the firewall of the main cabin, wrapped the wires with electrical tape at the right spot and then essentially pulled them through until I achieved another good seal, or so I think. There's also a plug from the luggage compartment to the battery compartment and one from the front to the luggage compartment, I'd suggest you take a look, and I'll try to get some close-ups in the ext week if you still need them.

It was a pretty fun project, but a pain to get the heads pointed straight and level - on a curved bumper. Some might prefer to simply use some silicone and "glue" them to the splitter??? I didn't think that would look right...

Email or PM if you need specific help.

maci911

have 2 always saved my as*

eDoug

Not interested in a debate - but worth noting that some rather reputable sources don't think much of the folks or products at Rocky Mountain Radar... I don't have any personal experience, and am not challenging your claims.

Some internet research shows very common results....


KYTV TV - Springfield MO
November 2005

Radar Roy was featured in an investigative report concerning the Rocky Mountain Radar jammers. During their independent test, the police gave an "F" to their jamming abilities.

http://www.radarbusters.com/radarjammerintroarticle.cfm

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Accessories/laserradar.htm

Radar Jammers

Because radar is a 50 year old technology, it is kind of imprecise. Therefore jamming is tough, you need a wide bandwidth and a fair amount of power. None of the "passive" jammers do anything. These are sold mainly by Rocky Mountain Radar. Basically a box with a power jack and an LED, this is a great business. Active jammers are big and heavy.


http://matt.simerson.net/reference/radar-scam.shtml

deckman

Now let's stay focused here

I'd really like to hear more Doug.

maci911

[QUOTE=eDoug;6234935]some rather reputable sources
Some internet research shows very common results....

http://www.radarbusters.com/radarjammerintroarticle.cfm

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Accessories/laserradar.htm
[QUOTE]


very reputable....

eDoug

Maybe reputable was the wrong choice of words. Perhaps believable...

http://www.speedlabs.com/radar_laser_jammers.html

I dunno - to each his own.

Regarding the blinder, it's supposed to be top notch - and it's worked for me in the past. They're using laser all over the place in my local area, so it's only a matter of time before I get some first-hand experience, hopefully without the consequences of a ticket I also use a V1 for radar - but nothing (except the RMR jammer supposedly) is effective against instant-on radar.

Van

Boy, not only did this post help someone some day, it's me, and today! I'm helping a friend install the laser blinder system on his car - we're doing 3 transmitters in the front and one in the rear.

To minimize "holes through the firewalls", I'm going to keep the CPU in the trunk - the 3 front sensors just need to be wired into there - and the wire from the rear sensor I have traveling under the plastic covers down the center of the car and up around the edge of the engine compartment.

All that's left to do is put the switch and buzzer into the cockpit from the trunk - I think there are some grommets I can use by the pedal box.

eDoug

Something I posted, helpful? Go figure! Since I installed this, what?, 2 years ago, I don't think I've ever been hit with laser, although driving the wife's car back north from Florida on New Year's day, I was zapped by a guy on the overpass in Georgia with laser.

It's there - and it makes me feel a little better - it's rare I drive steadily more than 10mph over the limit. However, I've been known for short bursts into triple digits for grins from time to time. The laser jammers give me a little peace of mind that those indulgences might not land me in jail if I ever do it at the wrong time.

Cheers - good luck - it's really rather simple. When I say I drilled through the firewall into the cabin in my original post, I should have said, I drilled a new hole (small) into the rubber grommet that passes into the cabin, and then put enough tape around the wires that I got a great seal wedged in there when I pulled them through the grommet.

peavynation

Thanks for the post! I've got M27's but have yet to install them. I'd really like to see where/how you punched thru the firewalls. But yes, mounting them level and without gluing them is what keeps me from just going out and doing it. That and the fact that I don't have my garage built yet.

You've got me inspired to finally do this!

Van

Alright, here's more information and the pictures I've taken so far:

Remove front bumper and remove black trim piece:



A closeup to mounting one of the side transmitters (bracket pop-riveted to plastic):



Backside of bumper cover with transmitters and all assembled:



Holes going into trunk - this is on the driver's side, between the center radiator duct (GT3) and the AC line:



The spot is kind of right next to the emergency trunk release latch - because the carpet goes vertically here, there's room for the grommets and for the wires to bend:



I left the camera in the house when I was working on the rear transmitter - I took the rear bumper cover off and mounted the transmitter between the license plate lights, then sent the wire into the engine compartment through an existing hole (I had to use a spare grommet of my own - because I'll use the grommet the blinder came with where it goes into the trunk.) I'll try to take pictures of that tomorrow.

peavynation

Great picts, thanks for posting!

function12

For my LI system I took off the front bumper. Cleaned rads while I was there. Then I ran my wires from the front sensors between the bumber and rad ducting, then under the little rubber pieces next to the headlights, and then under the sides of the weather strip for the front boot. Then used the rubber groment near the right side on the battery. I then used the phone power plug to power the CPU. I mounted a new Rear window defroster switch for on/off and LED flashing.
Under testing I got a several JTG and a few punch throughs. My heads are recessed though. So I am happy with the results. No rear protection yet.
Link to testing results.

Van

We finished the installation - thought you guys would like to see (a bunch) more pictures.

1 transmitter mounted on the rear bumper above the license plate bracket. Wire goes through bumper cover into the engine compartment, over to the right side, along with main wiring harness along the engine bay and down over the transmission (so it's out of the way if the engine or tranny ever has to come out).



Then the wire goes along the bottom of the car, under the plastic covers, along with a bunch of plumbing.



All the way up to the front trunk by the left side of the steering rack, and into the trunk (high enough that it's protected from any debris that might go under the car).



And here's the wire coming into the inside of the trunk, way down at the bottom.



Once all the trunk carpeting is back in place, the wires are all tidied up under the brake master cylinder.



And there are 2 wires - one for the switch and power and one for the LED and buzzer - that have to go into the cabin. They are routed behind the brake booster and through an existing rubber grommet.



And go by the AC receiver dryer to a plastic cover above the pedal cluster.



I think this cover is where the cabin filter would go on a right-hand drive car... Anyway, it was the perfect place to drill a hole and install a grommet.



Now that we're done in the trunk, it's time to put it all back together. You can see the CPU unit velcro'ed to the carpet, easily accessible, by the brake system plastic cover.



We decided to put the switch and status LED right next to the headlight switch. That made the installation minimally intrusive to the interior and puts it right by the steering wheel for easy access by the left hand. I took the headlight switch / vent panel off.



Did a little dremel work to the back of the little cover, and mounted the switch and LED. Rear view.



Front view.



All put together.



Inside, next to the switch and the vent linkage, I secured the buzzer with double sided tape.



And then put it back in the dash.



The wires dropped down nicely to the fuse panel - the ground wire was screwed to the chassis.



And the power wire, which has an in-line fuse, was routed through the back side of the fuse panel and plugged into an empty fuse slot that has switched 12v power (that spot must be for an option this car does not have...)



Time to level all of the sensors/transmitters with the car on the ground.



And here's how the car looks from the back.



And from the front.



Hopefully it will function as well as it looks! (Total installation time was about 10 hours - that includes head scratching and figuring out the cable routing.)