Clunk = Drop Link - DYI ??
10-08-2008, 12:40 AM
#1
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Clunk = Drop Link - DYI ??
OK so I have been looking for the "clunk" and when I rap on the top of the stabalizer bar up front... there it is...
I have stock 99 C2
So the drag link (drop link) has 2 small ball joints, one is shot. I believe the assembly comes as a whole. The end on the Stab bar comes out no problem. My question is... The end thru the shock tower support looks like it is used to clamp the shock to the wheel. ??? Is it ???
If not, its an easy job, if it is... loosening it would result in some changes I am sure and that might require alignment again?
So what should I replace them with... stock? aftermarket? show me web sites and exact parts to buy (not going to drop thousands here, just the drag links at this time)
And one more Q: Can the ride height be changed on stock suspension? Of do the shock/spring towers "lock" into the wheel bearing housing -
Sorry i dont have all the right part names,
but I think I got the idea written down...
Thanks....
Ed
I have stock 99 C2
So the drag link (drop link) has 2 small ball joints, one is shot. I believe the assembly comes as a whole. The end on the Stab bar comes out no problem. My question is... The end thru the shock tower support looks like it is used to clamp the shock to the wheel. ??? Is it ???
If not, its an easy job, if it is... loosening it would result in some changes I am sure and that might require alignment again?
So what should I replace them with... stock? aftermarket? show me web sites and exact parts to buy (not going to drop thousands here, just the drag links at this time)
And one more Q: Can the ride height be changed on stock suspension? Of do the shock/spring towers "lock" into the wheel bearing housing -
Sorry i dont have all the right part names,
but I think I got the idea written down...Thanks....
Ed
10-08-2008, 01:52 AM
#2
Racer
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If you take the pinch bolt out from the wheel carrier, you won't mess up the alignment.
For the droplink, sounds like the heim joint is failed. For some after market droplink, you can simply replace the heim joint.
If you take some pic, maybe we can help you where to look for parts.
For the droplink, sounds like the heim joint is failed. For some after market droplink, you can simply replace the heim joint.
If you take some pic, maybe we can help you where to look for parts.
10-08-2008, 09:19 AM
#3
Race Car
+1. Have the car up on jack stands when you're doing this. Place a jack under the rotor or suspension point on the car only enough to support it's weight and not allow it to move while you remove the pinch bolt. This will save you headaches. Even if it moves it's not that big of a deal as long as you get the shock fully seated back in the carrier before bolting everything back together. No allignment should be needed.
Andy
Andy
10-08-2008, 11:35 PM
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Well, I bought stock drop links at my local dealer... I thought about price shopping them, but since I now know the problem, I wanted it fixed right away.. you have to pay a premium for parts NOW!! Two stock links, $180 out the door... Came home and having never done this before it took me a little over an hour which included washing the wheels inside and out and the wells/brake calipers (since I was there)
Test drive to the gas station for a fill up of Chevron Supreme - WOHOOOO No clunk!! drives great, feels a tiny bit more responsive 9or mu imagination?) and I also think it sits a tiny bit taller (yukk, or maybe I am just imagining that too)...
Anyhow, Beer and dinner, not to worried about that order, one bandage for one knuckle and happy overall... that cluck is GONE BABY!!
NEXT--------------------->
Ed
Test drive to the gas station for a fill up of Chevron Supreme - WOHOOOO No clunk!! drives great, feels a tiny bit more responsive 9or mu imagination?) and I also think it sits a tiny bit taller (yukk, or maybe I am just imagining that too)...
Anyhow, Beer and dinner, not to worried about that order, one bandage for one knuckle and happy overall... that cluck is GONE BABY!!
NEXT--------------------->
Ed
10-09-2008, 08:41 AM
#5
Race Car
Glad the clunk is gone though. I too am not very patient and sometimes it's worth more to have repairs done quickly than to save money on them.
Andy
10-09-2008, 01:15 PM
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10-09-2008, 01:41 PM
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10-09-2008, 06:31 PM
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10-09-2008, 07:38 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
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a little different than tarret's, but same idea. tarret uses aurora rod ends; i use QA1. the rod ends are crome moly w/ teflon/kevlar races. they are self-lubricating and VERY strong.
the turnbuckles are 6061 aircraft grade aluminum with alodine acid etch for corrosion prevention. all hardware is grade 8 or stronger. the links are race proven; very strong & durable. lots of 'listers run these. i have different lengths for different sways; see pic for an idea of what they look like.
the turnbuckles are 6061 aircraft grade aluminum with alodine acid etch for corrosion prevention. all hardware is grade 8 or stronger. the links are race proven; very strong & durable. lots of 'listers run these. i have different lengths for different sways; see pic for an idea of what they look like.