trackjunky

Yes, but on a 996, you really can't get this low. I mean, you can, but you will wind up braking **** as you compress the suspension.

I have cup rear toe links and lock them down with the Tarrett toe link bolt set up that removes the adjustment eccentric. Too many people leave the eccentric stock, but over time the blue gunk on the face of the eccentric wears away and the holding power of that bolt gets horrible.


What was the final verdict on this problem?

LVDell

True, unless he has the proper suspension "package" of dampers and springs which we know is not present.

BTW, the eccentric "lock" isn't needed if it is tightened down properly and checked after every event (which the entire car should anyway). My eccentric NEVER moved in over 2 years. The holding power getting horrible is (my best guess) due to over-tightening the bolt to an improper torque.

As well, I'd like to know the final verdict. Hopefully he got all situated!

Fissionx

Here are some pics. When looking at the car on the shop lift, the only thing that looked 'off' to me was the front toe links, which again looked to have the most angle.

I went to -2.0degs camber all around with zero toe front (didn't touch the rear) and the car still pushes, no better than before.

So in my opinion a well set-up 911 will oversteer on turn-in if you you are not applying power correct? This is what I am looking for and is a characteristic of the ROW M030 C2s and stock C2s i've driven, however, not so as true for the GT3 I drove...

I think the problem is in the following order
1) Tires
2) ARBs

Ride height has dropped about 5mm or more since the first alignment.
My plan is to get a set of 235/275 Michelin PS2s, reset ride height to factory GT3, and swap the strut mounts back to the original bolt locations. Install GT3 or H&R ARBs. I can't get any less than 2.0 camber now with the strut mount bolts swapped. The tires that came on my wheels have production dates varying from 01-04 and are generally a very hard, crappy tire anyways.

Fissionx

I purchased at set of 235/295 Michelin PS2s recently off a GT3 and wondering if these will work or if they will cause the same problem as my 225/285 tire setup, which is too much rear grip. I'm thinking I should buy a set of 275s for the rear. Rims are 8" front and 10" rear width.

Thanks again for the help.

LVDell

At this point I don't really think it's the tires. I suspect you have an issue with your ARB's. I do not like the orientation of the drop links in the rear either. Something doesn't look right.

The tires (235/295) are a great combo but not really proper size for a 10" wheel. You can stuff it on there but it would prefer a 285. No big deal though.

I don't think at all that this is a question of too much grip. These cars will oversteer when off the throttle and understeer when on it. The trick it to get the proper throttle application mid corner when you come off the break and increasing throttle to "track out" unwinding the wheel.

If you are around today I am free and at home. I'd be happy to go for a spin and give you my thoughts. It's very tough to diagnose something without actually feeling it. For all we know, your car might be acting perfectly normal.

My CAB has the RoWM030 on it so you can get a good idea how it rides and is setup very nicely. Tires are 225/285.

trackjunky

Dell, something looks off on those pics. Me thinks that those are not the right sway bars, or something?

This may sound strange, but did they put the wrong sway bars on the wrong ends?

Seriously, you have pre-load in them thar' bars. Those drop links should hang straight down.

trackjunky

Wait.....shoot a picture of the collar (ear) on the bottom of the shock where the drop link attaches to the shock. Something doesn't look right there.

LVDell

Agreed. The drop links are not the same front to back and IIRC the "blue" ones are Agency Power which are total junk! Alot of reports here of broken links.....inferior materials.

Also, the drop link perches at the base of th damper do not look stock. Maybe they are but hard to tell from the pic. Remember, he has stock ARB's from his C2 with GT3 suspension.

trackjunky

Here's mine:

LVDell

Here's a couple shots from under my car to illustrate the connection b/t the ARB, drop link, and perch.

trackjunky

Yeah, Dell, that's what I mean. See how verticle yours are?

LVDell

That is why I suspect he might have a ton of push. The rear might be binding.

trackjunky

Although, too stiff in rear causes the rear to be loose. Anyway, sort out those drop links first, then we'll see. Basically, as the front suspension compresses under braking, the front bars might bind and cause push. Thoughts?

LVDell

Correct, with a stiffer rear you will induce more push in low speed corners (but it depends on his front settings). My guess is that not only the rear is binding but the front as well. Hard to tell but it definitely looks like that in the pics.

Here are some pics of my front......

himself

Related Q: When running GT3 lower control arms, what is the added benefit of running monoball upper strut mounts as well? I'm getting enough camber with the lower control arms... Also, couldn't I simply rotate the stock C2 upper mounts rather than replacing them to get more camber?

-td