Ken7258

I should have listened to others. After having my front end sound like it's falling off because AP droplinks won't stay tight, removing my front wheels 10+ times over the last couple of months to tighten them . . . you guessed it, my right front droplink broke. What a waste of 200+ bucks. Having to jack the car up and removing and installing the wheels was more of a pain then losing the money.

Dan at Vivid (after this thread, I guess I won't be receiving any refund from AP/Vivid) was nice enough to send these overnight to be matched up to GT3 sways. They immediately started loosening up and had to be retightened weekly if not earlier. After loosening up so many times I was not sure if they were properly adjusted for 0 preload so today I was taking my wheels off to set them up with 0 preload and loctite the length adjusting nut as well as install an extra nut to lock them together.

That's when I found the broken droplink. Now I know why they were so quiet. The clunking I always got was on the right side, even tho both sides loosened up.

So buy at your own risk. Time to go buy real droplinks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744307357/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2745144708/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744306271/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744308023/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744307659/

redridge

you think they would improve them by now...

CWay27

I got tarett and they are so beefy. Great product and Ira really knows is stuff.

springgeyser

You guys think the broken link are due to metal fatigue, inferior material or is it binding?

If the body is good, try just buying new quality heim joints from somewhere like Pegasus. Or you can give me the broken links so I can use it for my other cars.

Glenn

I have to say my loctite solved the loosening nut problem. Until the droplink snapped. Waste of hundreds of dollars. Why not stainless steel instead of aluminum? The bolts are even all rusted. AP is off my consideration list for anything in the future - anyone that buys them, has been formally warned.

996cats

Hi Ken,

Sorry to hear about your problems. The drop links lead a tough life, so good ones are a must.

I use the Tarett Engineering drop links and AR bars on our street 996 that we AX and on our Spec Boxster that I race W2W with. The materials are top notch and I have not had any problems with them coming loose or breaking even under extreme racing conditions.

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-products/list.htm

Thanks,

Bill P.

TonyTwoBags

resurrecting an old one. Anyone else have issues with loose drop links? I have been striking out getting my Taretts to stay tight in the front right. I'll put loctite on them but am curious if other have had similar issues.

NYoutftr

TTB
Are you talking about the adjustable length of the drop link, or the attachment of the drop link?

TonyTwoBags

The small nuts that keep the link in place are the ones I'm having trouble with. The connections to the strut holder & sway bar are fine.

longrowe

I was able to keep everything tight with a generous amount of blue loctite on the locknuts. It took a couple times of re-tightening before I bit the bullet, completely removed and dis-assembled the drop links, put blue loctite on every threaded area and reassembled/reinstalled them. I am going on 3 months with no clunks so I think I have it beat.

TonyTwoBags

Thanks for the input, I'll do this today.

TonyTwoBags

Update: Loctite is now on all link threads after I redid the drop link installation. Several weeks and around 600 miles later, no issues. The front end is tight & responsive with no rattles at lower speeds.

Happy camper here

note: this is with Tarretts, not AP