Battery or Alternator??
#16
The best way is to just take a simple volt meter and measure voltages like springgeyser mentioned.
#19
2001 C4. 15 mile commute over approximately 35-45 minutes in the winter. I could watch the charge on the battery drain on my gauge. I think I did this a total of four times over two days while waiting for the part.
#20
Race Car
Well ok, summer would of been a different outcome, would we not agree?
#21
Ok, I will buy that, maybe. The alternator is not grounded to the battery, it is grounded through the motor then through the chassis. So, removing the negative to me is not a big deal. If a cell falls (corrosion) from suspension in the battery, grounds the battery out, and ruins the battery, that would be the same as removing the ground to a point. Maybe off base but that is how I see it.
If a cell falls and "grounds" the battery out, you have a short.
#23
Hey folks - it's the alternator...I'm going to attempt to pull it myself tonight, I've found these instructions for Secondary Air Injection removal. http://p-car.com/996/diy/sai/mainpage.html To anyone who has ever removed their alternator, are all of these steps necessary to remove the alternator? Anything to suggest/add to these instructions? Thx again for all the help
#24
Race Car
Yes, I will add one part of the instruction that will make your life easier.
When you loosen the bolt that goes through the idler pulley, back it off a couple of turns and then tap the bolt head with a hammer until the bolt is flush with the pulley.
This will drive the bushing in the alternator back a little to allow clearance.
In the instructions they say it will be a little tight, if you do this, it will come out very easy. Remember the wire are back there though.
When you loosen the bolt that goes through the idler pulley, back it off a couple of turns and then tap the bolt head with a hammer until the bolt is flush with the pulley.
This will drive the bushing in the alternator back a little to allow clearance.
In the instructions they say it will be a little tight, if you do this, it will come out very easy. Remember the wire are back there though.
#25
Yes, I will add one part of the instruction that will make your life easier.
When you loosen the bolt that goes through the idler pulley, back it off a couple of turns and then tap the bolt head with a hammer until the bolt is flush with the pulley.
This will drive the bushing in the alternator back a little to allow clearance.
In the instructions they say it will be a little tight, if you do this, it will come out very easy. Remember the wire are back there though.
When you loosen the bolt that goes through the idler pulley, back it off a couple of turns and then tap the bolt head with a hammer until the bolt is flush with the pulley.
This will drive the bushing in the alternator back a little to allow clearance.
In the instructions they say it will be a little tight, if you do this, it will come out very easy. Remember the wire are back there though.
#26
Race Car
When you retighten the bolt, the bushing will clamp back around the bracket it is affixed to and the gap will be closed.
#29
Okay, got it pulled - thanks again Cory for that helpful hint - I remembered to tap the bolt head flush - but didn't remember to retighten it!!! D'oh!
I studied the instructions I posted above from P-Car.com, and managed to skip a lot of steps. After pulling the airbox, I only removed a few vacuum hoses, a bracket and a total of 6 or so bolts/nuts...If I can do this, I would suggest anyone with the time and even a slight bit of wrench turning saavy, this is a DIY
I studied the instructions I posted above from P-Car.com, and managed to skip a lot of steps. After pulling the airbox, I only removed a few vacuum hoses, a bracket and a total of 6 or so bolts/nuts...If I can do this, I would suggest anyone with the time and even a slight bit of wrench turning saavy, this is a DIY