how important to do a brake flush?
#16
Burning Brakes
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IIRC the ATE Type 200 amber fluid is OEM for Porsche and has the wet and dry boiling points as ATE Super Blue. Only difference is color. If you're worried about staining the reservoir, use the Type 200.
#17
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I can only speak about my local PCA club rules, but for DEs, both clubs require the brake fluid to have been replaced within the past 6 months, and high performance fluid is strongly recommended.
#18
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Some misinformation in this thread;
The abs sensors are in no way connected to the fluid, and will not be harmed by infrequent fluid changes.
The Porsche factory fill brake fluid IS indeed manufactured by ATE, however it does NOT have the same boiling points as the ATE super blue racing fluid. In fact, the rated temperatures are a bit lower. I compared them just two days ago.
About the stain, I've used ATE super blue on Porsches and BMWs that I've tracked over the last 6 years or so, I have yet to notice a stain. I would suggest using the ATE Gold (racing fluid) if you're concerned with the fluid's color, that actually does carry the same temperature ratings as the Super Blue fluid.
Ahmet
About the stain, I've used ATE super blue on Porsches and BMWs that I've tracked over the last 6 years or so, I have yet to notice a stain. I would suggest using the ATE Gold (racing fluid) if you're concerned with the fluid's color, that actually does carry the same temperature ratings as the Super Blue fluid.
Ahmet
#19
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just a few quick points. there is a difference between bleeding and flushing the system. Flushing is replacing the fluid where bleeding is letting out a little to check/remove air bubbles.
During track weekends, I'll bleed the system at the end of the day. If you're using quality fluid, there is NO REASON to change it over the weekend unless you are experiencing braking issues. If that's the case, you should reconsider the brake fluid that you're using.
Steve
During track weekends, I'll bleed the system at the end of the day. If you're using quality fluid, there is NO REASON to change it over the weekend unless you are experiencing braking issues. If that's the case, you should reconsider the brake fluid that you're using.
Steve
Last edited by Steven C.; 06-12-2008 at 08:35 AM.
#21
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It should be done once a year, whether driven or not. Take a look at brake fluid after 2 years and you will understand why simple by the discoloration.
If you track your car then it should be done at least every 6 months.
Even running RBF600 and PF01 pads, I work my brakes so hard I still tend to boil my brake fluid at least once a weekend. Switching to RBF660 has helped, but I still at least bleed my brakes once every track weekend.
If you track your car then it should be done at least every 6 months.
Even running RBF600 and PF01 pads, I work my brakes so hard I still tend to boil my brake fluid at least once a weekend. Switching to RBF660 has helped, but I still at least bleed my brakes once every track weekend.
#22
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I took mine in a month or so ago for an oil change and the writer called about my fluid not being Porsche brand and when it was last changed ect. Since I wasnt sure I ok'd the $125 and wondered if I just got put together for something I didnt need- very nice to read this thread- always learning something new!!
#23
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#26
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It should be done once a year, whether driven or not. Take a look at brake fluid after 2 years and you will understand why simple by the discoloration.
If you track your car then it should be done at least every 6 months.
Even running RBF600 and PF01 pads, I work my brakes so hard I still tend to boil my brake fluid at least once a weekend. Switching to RBF660 has helped, but I still at least bleed my brakes once every track weekend.
If you track your car then it should be done at least every 6 months.
Even running RBF600 and PF01 pads, I work my brakes so hard I still tend to boil my brake fluid at least once a weekend. Switching to RBF660 has helped, but I still at least bleed my brakes once every track weekend.
#27
Rennlist Member
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If this is the case, you need some on-track instruction. You are either over-braking or just simply braking incorrectly if, in a 996 with your modifications, you boil fluid at least once per DE. This is a driver issue, not an equipment issue.
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smankow, he has somehow found his way into the advanced run group.
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#29
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Pay $40 for a motive bleeder and bleed to you heart's content ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's very easy. I bled my clutch too and it seems to work better. Bleeding/flushing is really pretty simple and can be done pretty fast. Jacking the car and taking off the wheels is the most time consuming part of this DYI.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's very easy. I bled my clutch too and it seems to work better. Bleeding/flushing is really pretty simple and can be done pretty fast. Jacking the car and taking off the wheels is the most time consuming part of this DYI.
#30
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Pay $40 for a motive bleeder and bleed to you heart's content ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's very easy. I bled my clutch too and it seems to work better. Bleeding/flushing is really pretty simple and can be done pretty fast. Jacking the car and taking off the wheels is the most time consuming part of this DYI.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's very easy. I bled my clutch too and it seems to work better. Bleeding/flushing is really pretty simple and can be done pretty fast. Jacking the car and taking off the wheels is the most time consuming part of this DYI.