997 GT3 SSK Notes
#1
997 GT3 SSK Notes
Just finished a 997 GT3 shifter install on a 2001 C2.
The B&M notes are pretty good.
Just some highlights.
1) I have a set screw on my shift ****, so it was easy to get off.
2) Get the Torx screw driver. I got everything off OK w/ a 2.5mm Allen, but getting back into virgin plastic on the new housing needs the Torx. There are 2 different size T20 screws. The thick ones go on the shift housing.
3) There are 4 electrical connectors, left/right window, ash tray light, and glove box detect. Reconnect the glove box before re-securing the console.
4) GT3 seats make getting the console out a bitch. Slide the seats all the way forward and watch how you bend the console and what hangs up as you slide it up and back. I had to swing the passenger seat belt latch out of the way.
5) *** Use duct tape to protect the front part of the E-brake leather down low. I scratched the leather from trying to jockey the console out. There is a sharp bit on the bottom of the console.
6) Removing the cables from the very back of the old housing took some consideration. I didn't have to remove the metal clips even though I did. I used a screwdriver at the base of the cable housing to pry it out. The cable housing, while round, is actually flat where it slides into the shift housing so you need to try to get underneath on centerline as much as you can to not bind. The plastic catches are beveled coming out so it won't break. Look at the new shift housing and you'll see. Oh, and don't remove the metal clips since you might drop them between the well and the seats. This little oops cost me half an hour to fish it back out.
7) The alignment tool is great. But the left cable (gate) almost didn't fit in that it was too short to fit in all the adjustment threads of the shifter linkage. I was only a couple threads shy so I could force it in.
8) Don't forget to snap the shift housing cover back on before starting in on the console.
That's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and it is shorter, but more than that, it is tighter. You will actually have to cross the H to do the 2-3 shift. Hope this action doesn't soften up too much.
The B&M notes are pretty good.
Just some highlights.
1) I have a set screw on my shift ****, so it was easy to get off.
2) Get the Torx screw driver. I got everything off OK w/ a 2.5mm Allen, but getting back into virgin plastic on the new housing needs the Torx. There are 2 different size T20 screws. The thick ones go on the shift housing.
3) There are 4 electrical connectors, left/right window, ash tray light, and glove box detect. Reconnect the glove box before re-securing the console.
4) GT3 seats make getting the console out a bitch. Slide the seats all the way forward and watch how you bend the console and what hangs up as you slide it up and back. I had to swing the passenger seat belt latch out of the way.
5) *** Use duct tape to protect the front part of the E-brake leather down low. I scratched the leather from trying to jockey the console out. There is a sharp bit on the bottom of the console.
6) Removing the cables from the very back of the old housing took some consideration. I didn't have to remove the metal clips even though I did. I used a screwdriver at the base of the cable housing to pry it out. The cable housing, while round, is actually flat where it slides into the shift housing so you need to try to get underneath on centerline as much as you can to not bind. The plastic catches are beveled coming out so it won't break. Look at the new shift housing and you'll see. Oh, and don't remove the metal clips since you might drop them between the well and the seats. This little oops cost me half an hour to fish it back out.
7) The alignment tool is great. But the left cable (gate) almost didn't fit in that it was too short to fit in all the adjustment threads of the shifter linkage. I was only a couple threads shy so I could force it in.
8) Don't forget to snap the shift housing cover back on before starting in on the console.
That's pretty much it. Oh yeah, and it is shorter, but more than that, it is tighter. You will actually have to cross the H to do the 2-3 shift. Hope this action doesn't soften up too much.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the tips?!
I am, just starting to assemble the pieces to do this myself... could you post the part number from the shifter itself (and the centering tool)...
Do you feel the reduction is throw is significant?
I am, just starting to assemble the pieces to do this myself... could you post the part number from the shifter itself (and the centering tool)...
Do you feel the reduction is throw is significant?
#3
Malakas - P/N 997 424 0100
Just did a sample test drive. Now I'm easy to please and didn't have a big problem w/ the old shifter. That said I might get flames for this, but the new shifter regarding travel feels only a few percentage points shorter. Not a real big deal or real difference (as opposed to the B&M), which is fine by me. I'm a lot more impressed w/ the quality of the movement. As many have said already, it's bolt action like.
I didn't like the position of the shifter. Thought it was too much to the right. Took it all apart again and set it about 3/4" to the left. This solved the issue w/ the thread alignment of the gate cable.
I'll get to wring it out more at the track next week...
Just did a sample test drive. Now I'm easy to please and didn't have a big problem w/ the old shifter. That said I might get flames for this, but the new shifter regarding travel feels only a few percentage points shorter. Not a real big deal or real difference (as opposed to the B&M), which is fine by me. I'm a lot more impressed w/ the quality of the movement. As many have said already, it's bolt action like.
I didn't like the position of the shifter. Thought it was too much to the right. Took it all apart again and set it about 3/4" to the left. This solved the issue w/ the thread alignment of the gate cable.
I'll get to wring it out more at the track next week...
#5
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Mal, are you going to install the 997 GT3 shifter or the B&M shifter? dnitake installed the 997 GT# shifter so that is the part number he supplied. THE instillation process should be very similar, but probably a little harder on the GT3 because of the seats.
#6
Rennlist Member
Not sure. I love the smooth engagement of the stock assembly - but feel its gets sloppy because of the long distance between shift points. The BM shifter sounds like it takes away the slop - but Im not sure I'd want to have notchy engagement.... Thus, was hoping for a compromise on both accounts in the GT3 shifter...
#7
Rennlist Member
B&M is awesome. Feels like bolt action on a rifle. A little notchy when cold, but that disappears after a mile or so. I don't think you'll be disappointed.